carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 Help! Just fitted the FCD, and as soon as the ignition is turned on, the Overboost light is lit, and I still hit fuel cut at 16.5 psi Event with the MAP disconnected from the FCD (i.e only power hooked up to it), the Overboost light is still on from the moment I turn the ignition. Is my unit likely faulty? Or does the overboost light double as a simple 'ON' light, and I need to adjust the fuel cut level or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letmeshowyou Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 what settings is it on at the moment? 16.5 psi is much higher than 1 bar! Have you got these?: TRL Performance: VFCC (Voltage Fuel Cut Controller) © Temporal Reality Ltd 2003 Peter Betts. Setting up the VFCC. Flip up the lid to the VFCC. Orientate the box so the following is true; a. The dial on top left (Marked “F.C”) which should be set at position 8 as default is known as the “Fuel Cut” threshold dial. b. The dial on top right (Marked “o’boost”) which should be set at position B as default is known as the “OVERBOOST” threshold dial. (The default settings are for a Toyota Supra 3.0lt TT) Set your boost controller to the desired boost level for the car. E.g. 1.1bar Rotate OVERBOOST dial to position “F” to raise the OVERBOOST level to the highest point. This is a measured 4.99V from the vehicles MAP sensor, equivalent to the maximum output level the MAP sensor can generate. Setting the FUEL CUT With the “Fuel Cut” dial set at position 8, drive the car and see if you experience fuel cut. Then……. c. If it does still hit fuel cut rotate the “Fuel Cut” dial ANTI-clockwise (to position 7 from 8 for example) and try again. Keep doing this until fuel cut is removed. d. If it does not hit fuel cut rotate the “Fuel Cut” dial CLOCKwise (to position 9 from 8 for example) and try again. Keep doing this until fuel cut comes back again. At the point where you hit fuel cut you know that the previous position was just right. (i.e. rotate the dial back, anti-clockwise, one position)) Setting of the FUEL CUT threshold is now complete. This is the setting to be used for all cars of this type. (e.g. most Toyota cars have a setting of 8 or 9 as 4.2V is the fuel cut trip voltage to the ECU) You will observe that a small green LED (rectangular white blob) in bottom left hand corner, will illuminate if the VFCC is operational. i.e. is removing fuel cut. Boost pressure has to be above the factory fuel cut level for the device to activate. So you should NOT see any LED’s illuminated during idle. The LED’s might be hard to see so get someone else to shade the sunlight from the box and observe whilst you drive. You should NOT observe the RED LED (again a white rectangular blob) in the bottom right hand corner illuminating. Setting the OVERBOOST Now set the OVERBOOST dial. (ONLY IF YOU REQUIRE THIS FEATURE) The overboost is a safety feature of the VFCC to enable you to re-introduce the fuel cut at a higher level. So you still get the safety of knowing the ECU will hit fuel cut should something fall off the car or the turbo control mechanism fails. Rotate the OVERBOOST dial ANTI-clockwise (from F to E) and again go for a drive. IF you now hit fuel cut, rotate the dial one click clockwise (Maximum F, do NOT rotate from F to 0!). You have now set the maximum boost you will allow before fuel cut will be reintroduced. i.e. if you boost higher than that set by the boost controller the safety feature will activate. If you do NOT hit fuel cut, goto 8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilli Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 something is wrong, car should just be normal but minus the fuel cut! nothing needs adjusting IIRC, it's already set about right from the factory you sure you picked the right wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 So you should NOT see any LED’s illuminated during idle. So mine is broken then. Bloody brilliant :grr: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 Well, I have disconnect the blue and green (MAP in & out) wires, so it just has power now, and right away the overboost light is lit, so I assume it must be faulty. I'll check the wires again.. perhaps it lights up red if there's no MAP signal at all coming in, in which case I would still have the red light with just power applied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilli Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 >You should NOT observe the RED LED (again a white rectangular blob) in the bottom right hand corner illuminating. ahhh maybe the default overboost setting is too low? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 Okay, I've checked, and double-checked, and.. Yes.. I have cut the wrong wire for MAP For some stupid reason I thought the yellow blob at the end was not counted as a pin - I thought it was like an end-clip or something. I should have awoken my brain and noticed that they are all throughout the connector, where the pin is unused. So I have nicely heat-shrunk re-soldered the victimised wire back in place (the one next to MAP), and am continuing on.. It seems the VFCC lights-up Overboost when it's not receiving a MAP signal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilli Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 yes the pins are numbered and they all count, ooops! well can't rem which way around it is, but probably no voltage signals max boost, hence the red light. sounds like you are on the way to getting it sorted good luck, let us know what you think running full bpu with no fuel cut, hopefully the difference will be significant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 Black / yellow striped wire is the MAP sensor one. Blue from the FCD goes to the ecu side of the cut black / yellow wire, green from the FCD goes to the MAP sensor side of the cut. Earth to the stud that holds the main ecu down at the bottom with an eyelet terminal. I find it helps to work sober and not under the influence of any narcotics, YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 I'm narcotic free thankfully All working now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 If I was doing it again, I would without question just remove that SMD resistor inside the ECU box and fit the thing inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitesupraboy2 Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 If I was doing it again, I would without question just remove that SMD resistor inside the ECU box and fit the thing inside. so if it went faulty and had to be sent back to be fixed..............you'd have no car to drive as you buggered the ECU and you'd have to resolder back on after Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 let us know what you think running full bpu with no fuel cut, hopefully the difference will be significant It is. But I wasn't seeing fuel cut below 60mph anyway, so it's motorway instant-ban manoeuvres which have benefited the most Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 If I was doing it again, I would without question just remove that SMD resistor inside the ECU box and fit the thing inside. What's an SMD resistor? Keep it simple, please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 so if it went faulty and had to be sent back to be fixed..............you'd have no car to drive as you buggered the ECU and you'd have to resolder back on after Honestly.. the MAP pin on the ECU comes straight into this resistor here (and yes, this is the correct pin this time!) http://www.sam-e.co.uk/ecu.jpg buy a cheap SMD rework station from eBay. Remove that resistor, and wire the green and blue wires from the VFCC to there. Fit an equivalent value resistor to that one inline with the blue wire, hook up the +ve and -ive where-ever those lines are, and you're away. If the fcd breaks, you just connect the other end of that resistor back to where you have the green wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 What's an SMD resistor? Keep it simple, please SMD / SMT - Surface Mount Device/Technology.. it's that resistor below.. it's a surface mount one.. I tried desoldering it with a solder sucker but no go. SMD rework stations have hot-air soldering irons and vacuum suckers to get them off easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 Hmm, very elegant, but I'll stick to bunging Petes boxes under the ecu and leaving the lid firmly on the ecus I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 Hmm, very elegant, but I'll stick to bunging Petes boxes under the ecu and leaving the lid firmly on the ecus I think I think the lids were meant to stay on too! Bloody tight. The edges of my lid are a big chewed up now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
China Man Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 I remember having to take an hour to figure out if the yellow blocked pin counts as 1 or not surely spicing the wire is easier then SDM thingy? sounds like a disease. China Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 I remember having to take an hour to figure out if the yellow blocked pin counts as 1 or not surely spicing the wire is easier then SDM thingy? sounds like a disease. China You're kidding right? If I had the SMD solder /desolder station here I'd have done that. Then you have a fuel-cut-free ECU. No messing around cutting wires in the footwell. I suppose if you were using crimp connectors then it wouldn't be so bad.. I was soldering small connectors and heatshrinking them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 I strongly disagree here. Why would you have to unsolder resistors that you're not 100% certain of what they do? Do you have the full schematics of the ECU and can tell for sure what the repercussions will be? Why open the ECU box in the first place? I don't get this. What if you get water/coolant/moisture there in the future? It's on the footwell after all, water can come from underneath or the dreaded heater matrix. Will the ECU be tight enough to resist? And what makes you think that a fuel-cut-free ECU is a *good* thing? Why would Toyota fit one if it's redundant? We want to *raise* the fuel cut level, not eliminate it. The Thor gizmo does just that. Otherwise if an actuator hose pops off you may be looking at meltdown. Why risk it? KISS --- Keep It Short & Simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilli Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 I'd tend to agree, the ecu is meant to be sealed to stop damp etc getting it. I rememeber now when I came to doing mine I did consider for a moment taking the lid off and soldering it in directly, but then after looking at it I could see the lid was sealed and meant to stay on, and a new ecu is plenty of £ so why risk it anyway. Ok to remove a smt resistor is not hard (and yes you can do it with a regular soldering iron, nothing fancy needed) but why risk it. It you damaged a track or anything you could be up sh1t creek. I spliced and soldered mine, with heatshrink, only cut the 1 wire - it's not that bad, better than fiddling with the expensive ecu! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 4, 2006 Author Share Posted February 4, 2006 I strongly disagree here. Why would you have to unsolder resistors that you're not 100% certain of what they do? Do you have the full schematics of the ECU and can tell for sure what the repercussions will be? Why open the ECU box in the first place? I don't get this. What if you get water/coolant/moisture there in the future? It's on the footwell after all, water can come from underneath or the dreaded heater matrix. Will the ECU be tight enough to resist? And what makes you think that a fuel-cut-free ECU is a *good* thing? Why would Toyota fit one if it's redundant? We want to *raise* the fuel cut level, not eliminate it. The Thor gizmo does just that. Otherwise if an actuator hose pops off you may be looking at meltdown. Why risk it? I think you misunderstood on the resistor/FCD thing. The idea is that since the MAP pin comes straight to that resistor from the connector block, you would wire the FCD in there, meaning you don't have to cut up the main ECU loom. The resistor wouldn't be removed, it would be put back in-circuit along with the MAP in/out of the FCD. If the ECU had've had wires coming from the connecting block onto the PCB then I'd have cut one of those instead of considering removing the resistor. I sort of agree on the moisture point, but considering that now, I would just replenish the foam stuff around the edges. It's basically this stuff: http://www.uk2sucks.net/foam.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letmeshowyou Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Given that you joined it into the wrong wire on the loom to start with though are you still sure that's the right resistor anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted February 4, 2006 Author Share Posted February 4, 2006 Given that you joined it into the wrong wire on the loom to start with though are you still sure that's the right resistor anyway? Yep. I did mention that is *was* the correct resistor, considering my booboo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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