Pig Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 1st one i am worried about but not too much as i have a IC on the way. I went out just now and ok it was a VERY high speed 10 mins but my highest EGT temp (from the decat pipe) was....get ready for this 989 degrees C Ouch!!! I wonder could this be something to do with me booting it a lot in low gears because i ws trying out the RLTC to its max!!! Boost was about 1.2 bar today! Second question, which i hope is a simple one. Cant find anything useful in the manual.. i pressed "update" on my digital adjuster screen and now everytime i turn the car on its waiting for update. The only way to get out of that screen is to hold down the button and it tries to use launch control but its not active so then goes back to the normal screen. Tried disconecting the batt. was wondering if there is a fuse that i could pull that may do the trick. thanks in advance for all your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 989degC AFTER the turbos?! And your engine still works?! -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 Is it that bad.... shit! I best be taking it a bit slower then. will a new IC fix this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Put it this way - 989 would be "too high" if you were measuring at one of the exhaust runners. Anything north of 1000degC means you are looking at potential engine damage. 1100degC is Sword of Damocles time - at any moment your engine will let go. CW says that as a rule of thumb, add 200degC onto the temp if it's past the turbo's. That is a very rough guide, but it'sdeffo going to be higher before the turbos than afterwards, so you are looking at 1100 to 1200degC What state is your intercooler in?! And what fuel are you using? -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 At the decat pipe??? Zoiks thats a bit on the warm side. What temp difference does it make having the EGT probe in the cat pipe as opposed to the manifold? EDIT ok thats answered the question whilst I was typing it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 If all you were hitting was 1.2bar then I would suggest something is wrong with the fueling to get those EGT temps. You sure your gauge isnt in fahrenheit and not celcius? JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 Yep def celcius. My IC is well and truely dead. Beyond flaking! Im really worried i might have done some damage now. does the RLTC stop the fuel going in? Could this cause a temp rise? Fuel....99 ron! Tesco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Yep def celcius. My IC is well and truely dead. Beyond flaking! Im really worried i might have done some damage now. does the RLTC stop the fuel going in? Could this cause a temp rise? Fuel....99 ron! Tesco. If your IC is shafted then it's gonna be doing nothing, so the compressed intake air will be at something daft like 100degC, hence your sky-high EGTs. You wouldknow if anything serious had happened - melted plug, burnt valve, or holed piston. However you might have lowered the engine lifespan by eroding valve or piston crown material with det or simply excess heat Time will tell - you may have gotten away with it, lord knows people do with these cars on a regular basis For now I wouldn't push it past 700 to 750degC with a probe the wrong side of the turbos. Get your IC fixed asap, I'd even try not to go on boost until it's done if possible... -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 CW says that as a rule of thumb, add 200degC onto the temp if it's past the turbo's. -Ian Yep - My sensor started off in the downpipe (I did not know any better at the time) but, as soon as CW moved it to the right location, 200degC was the difference. Pig, I have 900degC set as my warning point but, in summer if I'm up near 850+ then I'll take things easy and back off a little. Sounds like your IC is not doing a very good job so, take it easy until the new one is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 I've got to put my temp probe on the Aristo where is the best place to put the probe effectiveness to ease of fit trade off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 I have my alarm light set for 750 but didnt see it cause i was concentrating. As i say it was a VERY high speed run around the temps are normall at 600 cruising at 80 mph. My IC is on the way, is there any info on replacing a sidemount on here, e.g. getting the front bumper off. Would this explain why my boost has been dropping as i get into higher revs??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 This might give you an idea Pig http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showpost.php?p=336247&postcount=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 Where is that with your probe based??? Also any one got any idea on the RLTC digi adj Q? Edit: obviously probe not in decat...i presume manifold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Hmmm, Whilst having knackered IC is not going to help, everyone seems to be jumping to conclusions here. Yes it could be the cause, but then there could be a plethera of other causes. (Not enough fuel, ignition too far advanced, or even too far retarded) To simply say yes it's your IC is a bit premature. You need to know what inlet temps your seeing. IF they're high, then replace the IC. If they're not then fit a WBO2. If that's giving you sensible results then start to look at timing problems (I would leave timing to be one of the last things to check, as without some kind of aftermarket EMS, or cam gears, it's the most difficult to get wrong - unless you've been tinkering with something in this area?) I can't remember your cars spec, but isn't it a stock J-spec? If it is 1.2 bar is going to be pretty much on the limit of the injectors and on the edge of the compressor map anyway. Even with a brand new IC, you may still end up seeing high EGT's afterwards. I read somewhere that if you reduce inlet temps by 1deg C you can expect to see a similar reduction in EGT's. So you would have to reduce inlet temps by A LOT if that were true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 My Car is a UK and pretty stock, just decatted with BL4" so should have plenty of fuel....Pretty sure im running rich actually. Was thinking there were 2 ways to solve that prob...SAFC or T61...the latter sounds tempting. lol I have been running up to 1.3 bar with out any probs, just today the temp went crazy. Whats a WBO2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 WBO2 = wide band o2 probe and gauge. It will tell you your air fuel ratio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 Good Stuff, will get the IC on asap and them if that doesnt work see if terry will stuff he WBO2 up my car! Anyone got any links for removing the front bumper? Did a search and the only link doesnt work ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Where is that with your probe based??? Also any one got any idea on the RLTC digi adj Q? Edit: obviously probe not in decat...i presume manifold? Yep - Manifold - see here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Good Stuff, will get the IC on asap and them if that doesnt work see if terry will stuff he WBO2 up my car! Check the inlet temps first!! If they're not high then fitting an new IC will do naff all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 How would i check the inlet temp? Was gunna fit one anyway cause mine is in such bad condition. Im hoping to take delivery of mine later this week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 You can measure the resistance of the inlet air temp probe. Any less than 0.5Kohms is not good (Means inlet temps >60degs) Ideally during a WOT pull it wouldn't drop below 1Kohms. (about 40 degs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 You can measure the resistance of the inlet air temp probe. Any less than 0.5Kohms is not good (Means inlet temps >60degs) Ideally during a WOT pull it wouldn't drop below 1Kohms. (about 40 degs) HOW WHAT WHEN WHERE WTF???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Well on a J-spec it would be easy, but you UK guys certainly know how to make a job difficult You need to measure terminals E2 and THA on the mass airflow meter. There's 5 pins on the MAF and E2 and THA area 2nd and 3rd from the front of the car. Obviously you can't take the plug off and drive with it like that, so you'll need to splice into the wires. Alternatively I think you can measure it at pins A45 and A65 at the ecu. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 Certainly does. Makes me realise that its something i need help with. Thanks Though bud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 1.3 bar is too much for stock tubbies. The J-spec ones (mine any way) start to lose power after 1.15 bar and the inefficiency goes exponential from there and will almost certainly be adding to your temp problems. The fact that when you aren't caneing it you return normal temps is an indication in this direction. You aren't gaining any power by running 1.3 bar so its pointless doing it. If you can limit it back to 1.2 or 1.15 that would be optimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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