Big Mark Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Converting to Drive by Wire and need to create the wiring harneses. I've got the 6 pin connectors so looking for 6 core cable. Would this (link) be ok for the DBW pedal and trottle body or is it too thin? Alternatives are this (link) in 22AWG or this (link) in 1.0mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 For the signals yes as you are dealing with 5v and milliamps. The 2 motor drives are a different matter I would use 11amp or 7amp at a push. You would be better buying 10m singles in 7 and 11 amp and some shrink tubing and making your own looms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 11 amp = 0.5mm? How about this stuff then? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-Core-Automotive-Cable-Towing-Trailer-Cable-Thinwall-Multicore-Heavy-Duty-12v-/252091459870 Would save me the hassle of making up lengths and sleeving~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Yeah! That should work. usually though you twist the signal wires with the earth to prevent the motor wires causing interference on the signal lines. The pedal will be fine as it goes to the ecu but the DBW Throttle from the ecu ???? Depend on how clean the H-Bridge Motor drives are. This is a critical system so you don't want it to fuck up while on the move. Edited October 4, 2016 by Nodalmighty (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManwithSupra Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Yeah! That should work. usually though you twist the signal wires with the earth to prevent the motor wires causing interference on the signal lines. The pedal will be fine as it goes to the ecu but the DBW Throttle from the ecu ???? Depend on how clean the H-Bridge Motor drives are. This is a critical system so you don't want it to $#@! up while on the move. This... personally I would make up your own cable using Raychem Spec 55 and make sure the cables are twisted as above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 RayChem is pre-twisted internally from what I remember of using it. It's like £20 a metre from memory too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 Too late now, just placed order for other cable. I'll speak to the electical guys at work and see if they use anything special on the harnesses of our cars with DBW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManwithSupra Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 RayChem is pre-twisted internally from what I remember of using it. It's like £20 a metre from memory too. This is what I used on all the new looms in my track supra. Not cheap but incredibly reliable stuff and durable too. I also concentrically twisted the cables and added service loops and used raychem sleeving and boots. Time consuming and frustrating stuff but also when you are done quite satisfying lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 Got a link where to get this RayChem stuff from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManwithSupra Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Got a link where to get this RayChem stuff from? Element 14 sell the stuff, not sure on what AWG you need but here is a link to a single wire - http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivity-raychem/55a0111-26-9/wire-etfe-26awg-white-100m/dp/1972286 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 If you need Raychem heat shrink tube I have a good stock of some sizes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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