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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Flat Battery - Again


MrRalphMan

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Right I have me multimeter and am going to poke it places tomorrow.

Is there any particular places I need to poke it???? :stickpoke

 

Also how do I check the Earth for the rear lights?

 

Set to AMPs/Current (ammeter), you should wire it in-line on the +ve from the battery. So remove the +ve, and hook it through your ammeter. I wouldn't advise attempting to start the vehicle like this though, or doing it with the vehicle running. It will however allow you to see how much drain there is on your battery and you can go switch things off and see again.

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When I got my car it kept not starting, even after playing the stereo and fiddling about with electric mirrors a couple of times for about half hour!!

 

When I changed the battery I was told that the one that came out is the same as the one used in the Suzuki Ignis!!!!!!

 

OK now though, only been leaving it through the week for about a month though so we'll see if it gets knackered!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest kennyf

I'm having similar issues. I've checked the earths, removed my headunit and checked all lights. When running the voltage across the bat is 14.2 so I think the alternator is sound. When the car is off something is drawing about 5A from the bat! :cry:

When I pull the EFi 2 fuse in the engine bay and measure across the points it appears the drain is at the point. So I disconnected the ECU and the drain across the point drops to zero but the total dain across the battery remains exactly the same.

I am 100% confused , took it to a spark who scratched his head and said "best take it to someone who knows these cars and that ECU." :shrug:

 

Fresh perspective would be good! :(

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When you test current draw, you should leave the probes connected for a good minute or two before taking that reading as correct. Many ECU's go through a 'power up learning/diagnostics' cycle which can draw a couple of amps.

If an alarms is on a car when the battery is re-connected, some will arm, some will disarm and bring on the interior light. (Watch our for indictor flashes.)

Also, make sure all the doors and boot are closed as an interior light being on will also add to any readings. Even if the light is switched off, there may be relays active, so the doors and boot MUST be closed

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Guest kennyf
When you test current draw, you should leave the probes connected for a good minute or two before taking that reading as correct. Many ECU's go through a 'power up learning/diagnostics' cycle which can draw a couple of amps.

If an alarms is on a car when the battery is re-connected, some will arm, some will disarm and bring on the interior light. (Watch our for indictor flashes.)

Also, make sure all the doors and boot are closed as an interior light being on will also add to any readings. Even if the light is switched off, there may be relays active, so the doors and boot MUST be closed

 

I've done it every way possible ( I think) everything on and the engine running, nothing on the engine off , and I've also done it with the doors closed and locked.

I'm a bit reluctant to disconnect the alarm as someone has told me that once the Toad cat 1 alarm is disconnected the car won't start , eben once re-connected?

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Guest Supradeek

ive been having problems with battery going flat aswell even after long runs that you'd think would give it a good charge.

 

but sorted the problem :clap: it seemed to be the terminal connections to the battery they were covered in crap and kinda loose. Cleaned with a bit emery paper and file

 

fingers crossed thats it sorted now.

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