masterfett Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Hi all, picked myself up a very cheap TT knowing that it has a possible major problem.. besides who doesnt like a project!? Project thread located here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?305872-Masterfetts-TT-Project&p=3851089#post3851089 Ok so basically, on starting the car it makes a bloody horrendous noise. It is a Jspec Pre facelift TT Auto. Noise seems to go away if revs are brought up .. i remember seeing a video of someone who had blown the gearbox ( was a manual) on here somewhere and it sounded quite similiar. Here is a video .. although i know it is upside down (im a bell end) and also the porno style groan any ideas? Also .. are there any Supra specialists near Exeter. I know whifbitz have just opened up in wales.. but is there anyone else? Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si_s Supe Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Possible bottom end failure?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 (edited) Does the oil pressure warning light work? if so is it slow to go out after a start, or coming on at low RPM? Could be big end failure. Could also be a (very) loose crank damper with a destroyed keyway, or a loose flex plate or flywheel. Load it up against the brake if it's an auto and see if the noise goes or changing considerably, or hold it against the handbrake on the clutch. Does just depressing the clutch alter it? If you suspect the damper take the drive belt off and see if you can move it in relation to the crank by hand and see if the bolt is loose or not properly torqued. If it's the damper it WILL have done crank nose damage. Can i turn the monitor the right way up again now? Edited April 5, 2014 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterfett Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Thanks for the replies! Does the oil pressure warning light work? if so is it slow to go out after a start, or coming on at low RPM? Could be big end failure. Could also be a (very) loose crank damper with a destroyed keyway, or a loose flex plate or flywheel. Load it up against the brake if it's an auto and see if the noise goes or changing considerably, or hold it against the handbrake on the clutch. Does just depressing the clutch alter it? If you suspect the damper take the drive belt off and see if you can move it in relation to the crank by hand and see if the bolt is loose or not properly torqued. If it's the damper it WILL have done crank nose damage. Can i turn the monitor the right way up again now? Chris, yep they work as i replaced the unit with the one from my NA just to be sure and nope it goes out on start up and stays off, as for under load i just tried this, stuck it in D and brought the revs up, made no noticeable difference to the sound until it got to about 2k revs, and then the sound goes, but it does this if its in neutral also.. haven't had a chance to look at the damper yet though. any other thoughts? and yes you can turn the monitor up the right way haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 The fact the oil pressure light works, goes off immediately on starting, and doesn't come on again at idle is encouraging. That suggests the bottom end may be OK, and the noise source is external. A real knocking like that would infer the bearing shells were hammered out and one would expect very poor oil pressure. Also you say the noise goes at 2000 RPM and above, again, encouraging. The cyclic pulses even on a straight six are much stronger at lower revs, so I would look at the crank damper next. I suppose it's just conceivable a totally shot engine mount may make that sort of noise, it's always very difficult from a video, rather than hands on. You could drain the oil and see if it's all silvery with bearing matter. But I would look to the crank damper next myself. Do you know if the engine been out ever? Any stories with the car? How many miles on it? I did do a temporary fix on a 2JZ-GTE damper, ages ago, I hope you haven't found that particular example Does it run stock boost, or has it been fiddled with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterfett Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Ok thanks for the advice, im no mechanic but i like to think im fairly competent with a spanner so will have a look at the crank damper when it stops chucking it down for more than 5 minutes! i had ruled out engine mounts because the noise is so harsh, its really hard to explain and obviously as you said a video doesn't really help, when i turn it off you can hear it spin down briefly and it almost sounds like there is some friction against it.. if that makes any sense at all. I couldnt tell you if the engine has ever been out, but the previous owner has had it for 7 years and in his time of owning it i know that it hasn't. Mileage, its about 160,000km i will wade through then 2 inches of old MOT's and documents and see what mileage it was imported at etc at some point. Stories, none that i know of, i will ask the previous owner next time i see him. The car has been decatted and thats it, otherwise standard. Haha i hope i havent also but unless it was over 7 years ago we should be safe! Thanks again for the response, its very much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 It may have been about 7 years ago... Good luck, if it's the damper do not assume the bolt itself will be loose if the damper is. Many people Loctite them, so the bolt could still be tight, as in Loctited solid, and damper itself rotating a bit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Unless you are sure it's coming from the back (like you suggested on the phone) I would whip the cam belt top cover off and check the belt isn't slack as in a broken tensioner. You could also see if the starter motor is falling off. If you feel it's the torque converter and feel bold then you could undo the six or whatever bolts holding the TC to the drive plate, push the TC right back into the gearbox as far as it will go, check the flex plate isn't still touching the TC and try starting it then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterfett Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 sorry for the delay in reply! for some reason i cant reply from my mobile which is annoying! I am 90% sure it is from the back yes.. but that is only because it is louder towards the back.. could be resonating however i guess! My main problem is that with work and other commitments at the moment i only really get 1 or so hours a night to work on it, and at the moment i am taking all of the good parts out of the na to put in the TT (interior) etc. however with the long weekend coming up i intend to get it up on stands and switch over the UK brakes! so once its up i will have a look at the flex plate as you suggested on the phone! i will also have a look at the cam belt just to be sure and have a good nosey underneath. Ill check the starter also! Other than draining the oil is there a secondary way to be sure the Bottom end hasn't gone? Thanks again for the reply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterfett Posted April 16, 2014 Author Share Posted April 16, 2014 Checked cambelt,seems nice and tight, starter is also tight. Not sure im brave enough to try the torque converter.. Would be easier if i could get more room to move under the car but unfortunately that's not a possibility Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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