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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

RLTC


Nic
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I did a search on the BB about the RLTC and noticed quite a few of you have been experimenting with it's set up. I've just had mine fitted and will try to do some datalogging this week. I was just wondering if anyone has come up with some optimum setting for the Supra? Or can anyone give me some advice about how it's set up?

 

cheers

 

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I have several files of tried and  tested settings, but they are much easier to put in with Graham Rudd's Windows app for RL.

 

If it is OK with Graham I could send you the latest version of  his app and a 6 speed file.  Just let me know your front and rear tire sizes.

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Cheers Phil look forward to receiving the files, can you email them to me at [email protected]

 

I had my split IC hose replaced with some nice shiny new HKS pipes tonight so had a first chance to test the RLTC in anger. I must say I was really impressed with the difference it has made, I can now lay the power down exiting a corner much earlier and the back end stays glued to the road, where as before things would have got very sideways! Straight line accelaration is also improved as I'm getting almost no wheel spin now in 1st and 2nd gear just lots of grip and forward momentum.

 

Half way through my test drive though I started to experience misfiring at high boost. I switch the TC to off thinking it could be that causing the misfire but it made no difference. Even in the off position could the TC be causing this?

 

My other thought is that it could be my plugs, I had TRD Iridium plugs fitted about a year ago but since then have added the HKS cams and FMIC and upped the boost to 1.3bar so could be that they can not cope with the higher boost, any ideas anyone?

 

cheers

 

 

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Guest Martin F

Misfiring under high boost is very often related to plugs, either getting old or incorrectly gapped.

 

However if your RLTC is a fairly new install then it could possibly be a dodgy connection between the ECU loom and the RLTC box. Remember the RLTC sits in series with the injector signal, so even with the unit switched off it could cause problems. Saying that though a dodgy connection is a dodgy connection so if present should be causing problems all the time, not just at WOT.

 

IMHO i would defenitely go for spark plugs first.

 

Unless of course your RLTC is installed with the aid of scotch locks, then i will send you a gun to use on the installer :o

 

 

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Thanks Martin

 

The misfire is only really noticeable at WOT, tickover is fine and it isn't misfiring when the car is stationary and reved. I've been reading the RL fitting instructions and tend to think that it could be the TC install causing the problem as they say misfiing can occur if one of the signals from the abs sensor is connected.

 

I'll get it checked out tomorrow nad let you know what the diagnosis is. I'm due for a service anyway so pehaps it is time for new plugs also.

 

cheers

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Nic

 

it *might* be a setting on your RLTC.    Best thing to do is to implement a decent .DAT settings file as soon as possible (Phil Wall can send for eg. or i can knock one up for you) and use Graham Rudd's applet  RLsettings.exe to load it in using a laptop with an RS232 connection.   (9-pin).

 

It may well be that your wheel size settings are making RLTC think that you're wheelspinning a lot when you actually aren't.    But thinking about it, i'm talking rubbish as you said it still does it when you switch RLTC off.

 

ah well.

 

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Thanks guys for all the advice, I've got it back in the garage at the moment so they can check the connections are okay, I should get an answer tomorrow.

 

Thanks to Phill I've also got the files I need so I'll get these installed ASAP. What lead do I need for the connection to the diagnostics socket is it a standard 9 pin male/female lead, does it have a propper name so I don't look a complete prat when I'm asking at the shop? (or perhaps someone can write a MAC version then I'll be laughing :)

 

cheers

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Nic

 

I don't think you'll need a lead at all as the RL lead that comes with the RLTC simply plugs into the laptop.   but anyway it's an "rs232 serial port".    it's a 9-pin, (5 over 4) connection.   So you simply need to get hold of a laptop that you can plug the RLTC lead into (back of the laptop needs to have a 9-pin male port).

RS232 serial interface has been around since the dinosaurs roamed.

 

have you got Graham Rudd's RLTCSettings.exe applet yet ?    it's only 300k or so and you simply connect up the laptop to the RLTC, start the RLTCSettings.exe and then open an appropriate .DAT file that Phil has sent you and send it to the Racelogic unit in your car and, hey presto, you have new settings.

 

 

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Stu

 

Thanks for the help. yes I've got the file now from Phil so I'll be downloading the settings at the weekend. I've been impressed with the difference the TC has made in it's current settings so looking forward to gettting things set up properly.

 

Is it possible to set the launch control without connecting to a laptop? As I understood it from the instruction manual, you should press the launch control button once then press and hold it again rev to the desired limt then relaese the button and the launch setting should be set. I tried this though this tonight and nothing at all seemed to happen, am I missing something here?

 

cheers

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Nic

 

Yes, i changed the revs using that method on the RLTC.   you don't need a laptop (though you can change the setting in there too easily via Graham Rudd's app.)

 

I think the key thing is here (as I found out) is to do it EXACTLY as per the manual.     i.e. switch the car OFF, then switch it on again, then go through the procedure you described.    It does definitely work cos i've done it.     Once or twice it didn't work for me, but then if you do it exactly as per the manual, it does work.   (Page 23 of the RLTC manual  i.e. section "8.2 Adjuster Program").

 

give it another go.    you can set 2 different rev-settings : Dry and wet.

When the slip adjuster is set to 0% then that sets the wet setting, and any other slip setting is the dry setting.

 

For wet, i would stay pretty low at about 2000rpm.    depends obviously on how wet the tarmac and how much tread on your rear tyres.  Dry - 4000rpm works well if the tarmac is pretty good.     On a Jap-spec due to the extra torque, you might want to try it at 3000rpm first.

 

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