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help: Supra NA Auto Engine Trouble - see video


FireStormNBI
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I meant how did you actually adjust the timing :) I'm not sure how you do it on the NA as you can't on the TT.

 

You may have an earth fault? Do any of the dash lights glow dimly or behave strangely? Any odd low voltage readings where there shouldn't be?

 

-Ian

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The Dizzy has rotational movement for timing adjustment.

 

I did wonder. Is it an accepted maintenance requirement or is it the timing equivalent of turning the throttle stop screw because your idle is wrong? (i.e. you're masking the problem, not fixing it)

 

ps and Hi Mig :wave:

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From memory, and it isn't great, base timing on an N/A should be somewhere in the region of 8-13° @ 650-750 rpm's on a warm engine. There was also something about ECM controlled timing and having to remove the bridge connector in the diagnostic plug to check it, but don't quote me on that. IanC makes a very valid point. Once the timing is set correctly, and within spec, it should never need re-setting for any other reason than if it has wandered (which you check when servicing).

 

I don't think timing is the problem here:)

 

P.S Hi Ian, you well bud? :wave:

Edited by Miguel
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IanC makes a very valid point. Once the timing is set correctly, and within spec, it should never need re-setting for any other reason than if it has wandered (which you check when servicing).

 

That was kind of what I was moving towards :)

 

P.S Hi Ian, you well bud? :wave:

 

Muchos good thanks, still figuring out how to get my mitts on the new Dodge Challenger after you poisoned my mind with that picture of the concept :)

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I meant how did you actually adjust the timing :) I'm not sure how you do it on the NA as you can't on the TT.

 

You may have an earth fault? Do any of the dash lights glow dimly or behave strangely? Any odd low voltage readings where there shouldn't be?

 

-Ian

 

by rotating the distributor..

the MANU light blinks on and off when i turn the ignition to ON even without starting the car

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i know its not the same car but same prob my daily drive is a saxo and i had very similar probs so i stripped the the throttel body and cleaned out the fuel regulator sensor [it was black and i put in a new maf sensor now it runs perfect

it was running lumpy cutting out etc etc .sounds like your ecu is getting wrong signals from something

 

this is from supra manual

 

IGNITION TIMING

IGNITION TIMING (Degrees BTDC @ Idle) (1)

 

(2) Base (3) ECM Controlled

Application Timing Timing

Non-Turbo ................. 8-12 ....................... 7-19

Turbo ..................... 8-12 ...................... 10-20

Edited by Dave (see edit history)
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this might help you mate

 

1) Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature.

Shut engine off.

2) On non-turbo models, connect timing light to spark plug

wire on cylinder No. 1 (front cylinder at timing belt end of engine).

Connect scan tester to data link connector No. 3. See Figs. 6 and 7.

Scan tester is used to read engine RPM.

3) On turbo models, open cover located above the igniter.

Connect timing light lead to Green wire and to battery. See Fig. 9.

Igniter is located near driver’s side strut tower. Connect tachometer

to proper terminals of data link connector No. 1 located in engine

compartment. See Figs. 6 and 7.

4) On all models, apply parking brake. Place transmission in

Neutral. Start engine and maintain engine at 2500 RPM for 90 seconds

and then allow engine to idle. Ensure idle speed is 650-750 RPM on

non-turbo models or 600-700 on turbo models.

5) Install Jumper Wire (SST 09843-18020) between terminals

TE1 and E1 of data link connector No. 1 located in engine compartment.

See Fig. 8.

NOTE: Timing marks are located on front cover.

6) Ensure base timing is within specification at idle with

transmission in Neutral, electric cooling fan off, A/C and all

accessories off. See IGNITION TIMING table.

7) On non-turbo models, if base timing is not within

specification, loosen distributor hold-down nut. Rotate distributor to

obtain correct base timing. Tighten distributor hold-down nut.

8) On all models, remove jumper wire from data link connector

No. 1. Ensure ECM controlled timing is within specification. See

IGNITION TIMING table. Shut engine off. Remove jumper wire, tachometer

or scan tester and timing light.

IGNITION TIMING TABLE (Degrees BTDC @ Idle) (1)

(2) Base (3) ECM Controlled

Application Timing Timing

Non-Turbo ................. 8-12 ....................... 7-19

Turbo ..................... 8-12 ...................... 10-20

(1) - Check with engine at normal operating temperature,

transmission in Neutral, parking brake applied, A/C and all

accessories off.

(2) - With Jumper Wire (SST 09843-18020) installed between

terminals TE1 and E1 on data link connector No. 1.

(3) - With jumper wire removed from data link connector No. 1.

Fig. 6:

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest FLZ_Boy
my TPS is NEW.. havent checked the ISC Valve yet.. what do i look for in my ISC valve? how do i test it if its still ok?

 

Is the TPS adjusted to Toyota's Factory Settings? For the ISC, it will click two times when you move the ignition key to "On" In addition, you might want to clean it, but it may not be the problem.

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could it be my ignition coil is the culprit? i checked all plugs and they are all black (soot) indicating a rich mixture.. and when i start the car it runs normal for a few seconds and then its symptoms comes back.. my guess is that when the ignition coil is still cold it still fires normally, then after a few seconds when its hot it misfires.. can anyone confirm this? thanks

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  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...

i found out the hard way though.. took almost a year.. replaced many parts on the igition system. checked almost all the parts from fuel pump to almost all of the sensors. took out the dash. until one day it came across my mind to open the ECU out of desperation. im glad i did.. the lessons learned will help others as well..

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