Elmo

Where did you get your manifold from?

If you get a 3" then decide not to go NA-T you will regret it because you will notice the difference, otherwise 2.5" for NA.

Thanks for the instructions. I'm assuming if you put a trolley jack under the hub before removing the bolt it would stop it falling forward? If you have to loosen the wishbone bolt from underneath, how you torque it up when the car is on the floor?

Http://www.originalmotorsports.com/

Well good luck, and as you're fitting coilovers it will be easier than fitting regular shocks/springs. Yeah, when Toyota designed the Supra they made every part as difficult as possible to replace, to replace all shocks & springs on a Ford or Vauxhall would take a couple of hours tops!

Cheers mate. Glad it's over though, I was dreading going through all that to find nothing had changed, thank god it solved the problem, it makes it all worth while! I still have an annoying squeak coming from the front end, it sounds like I have a budgie living under the bonnet, hopefully I can fix that too. Regards the drop links, the original ones are a real pain to get out, but I was quite impressed with the new ones. They have a 14mm nut on the shaft, its so much easier to tighten & loosen them, just stick a spanner on it while you loosen/tighten the securing nyloc nut, it would make life so much easier if Toyota had gone this route instead of putting a crappy allen key socket at the end of the thread, its pretty useless. Do you have any idea when you plan to do the work on yours? It sounds like your covering all bases

Now then, this weekend I have replaced my rear shocks, springs & drop links, it was a complete PITA to do but it's done, just gotta get the fronts sorted now, but I don't think I will be doing it! Just been for a spin and the good news is the rattles & knocks have gone, the only thing is I don't what was to blame for the noises, but I'm just glad they've disappeared Over to you

The rears are now done, I used the impact wrench this time which helped a lot, only problems I has was the bottom brake calliper bolt was a biatch, the impact wrench wouldn't touch it, had to use a breaker bar to crack it but it was hard work. I got the first nut off the drop link using the impact wrench and a pair of mole grips, it came off in under a minute. The other nut was a different story, I could only undo the nut about 3/4 of the way, so I had cut the nut off with my Dremel. I'm not sure I want to tackle the fronts, it's not a job I'd relish doing again, and considering the fronts are more difficult I might just take it somewhere. How long do you reckon it would take a mechanic to sort the fronts, that's shocks, springs & drop links?

Got the shock on! I removed the drop link but still couldn't get the shock on to the hub. So I removed the brake calliper which gave me room to bring the shock forward (where the calliper usually is) and slide the shock over onto the hub while using my breaker bar to apply some pressure to the hub. Now the next one!

How do you get a spanner on these nuts?

Thanks for all the replies, hopefully I should make better progress tomorrow. Does anyone know if the nuts on the drop links are loctited on, they were unnaturally tight, and thinking a bit of heat will help me get the next one out?

I have a spare 6ft wooden fence post in the garden, could work but maybe it's too chunky

Doh!

Just a thought, earlier I fitted a new drop link on the rear, would the hub move more easily if I took it off?

Interesting. I shall have a look in the morning. I bought one of these to keep in the boot, but have never used it, apparently the max torque is 350Nm, maybe I should give it a go! http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0036YHBMM/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I started on the rear first, I thought it would be easier! I had a look at the top wish bone but I didn't like the look of that huge ass rusty nut!

I just had a look at your build thread, you've fitted the same KYB's as I am trying to fit.

not sure I've got anything I can use as a lever

I tried, but its difficult trying to make up a couple of inches while trying to manoeuvre the shock at the same time, although I didn't use as many body parts as you I think I'll ask the missus to stand on it, but she might take it the wrong way when I tell her I need to use her weight!

I emailed him earlier too, I told him he should revise his listing to avoid misleading people, he replied "OK". Just had a look at his listing again to see he's ended it early!

This afternoon I attempted (for the first time ever) to begin replacing my stock suspension with new KYB shocks & lowering springs along with drop links for good measure. I thought I would finish the rears this afternoon, but I under estimated what a PITA the job is. I got the old shock out fairly quickly and began removing the drop link. Never before have I experienced nuts so tight, and despite using lots of Plus Gas they seemed to get tighter the more I loosened them, cut a long story short it was out 2 hours later, only 3 more to do! Next, I used spring compressors to remove the top mount from the old shock, then fitted the new spring to the new shock and secured the top mount with the nyloc nut supplied. This is where I'm having problems. I manoeuvred the shock in place, and loosely fitted the 3 screws on the turret. The problem is I cannot get the bottom of the shock on to the hub, is there a knack to getting in position? I have heard that using spring compressors can help, but how? I have tried this but it just compressed the spring, it's just lose on the shock and the shock stays the same size, it have tried compressing the shock to decrease the length, but its impossible when crouched in the wheel arch! Any hints, tips and advice would be very much appreciated, my car is on axle stands for the night until I can have another go in the morning! Cheers.

I looked at listings that ended recently and the cost was about £63. I've had an email from them; Hi, Thank you for the message. We hope to have more carbon fibre supra exhaust shrouds available late next week. Kind regards, - 0riginal_motorsports

coincidence, I've been searching for one of these today, I sent an email earlier to Original Motorsports in Oz as they make these and usually sell them on eBay.

A. Use a gasket only B. Gasket with exhaust paste (Fire Gum) C. Use exhaust paste only D. Gasket with high temp silicone (Loctite copper stuff) E. Use high temp silicone only I have all of the above but want to get it right first time, don't want to find out it's blowing then spend more time having to put it right!

You'll be wanting 2.5", no bigger