Matt Harwood

Pm'd for competing!

Well, I've got a Road Angel Classic, a Snooper S4 + Radar (S100), and an InfoRad.

IMHO I'm not keen on the new Road angel, but only from a cosmetic point of view.

I like the Micro Pilot for it's compactness/stealthy ability to be hidden...

I like the S4-R as it's simple, effective and easy to see, (Which with eyesight like mine is a big bonus!

I also like the Inforad for it's cheapness and it uses the same software as one of the bigger players, so it's reliability will be good. It's bonus is also it's downfall. It is cheap, and it does look a bit cheap when compared to the more expensive units. But at 1/4 the price, there had to be a compromise somewhere...

I've never used a B2, but it does seem to get highly recommended and gets very good reviews.

Yes it does.

Unashamed link! - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?p=255259#post255259

Matt forgot to mention that he also won't eat anything with onion or garlic in it, isn't keen on spicy food and can't bear any foreign food! He loves 'dippy' egg and soldiers though

I don't like chocolate-it makes me feel really sick, even the smell of chocolate makes me queasy. After 15 years with Matt his mum STILL buys me boxes of chocs now and again-luckily that's something Matt loves!

Chantelle

I have to be one of the fussiest and problematic eaters around...

I'm alergic to fresh fruits, salads and most vegetables. So with that in mind, I have to be really careful what I eat.

I'm not over keen on mixing foods up either, so that rules out a few more things.

And just to top it off, I'm not keen on much in the way of sauces... I don't like 'stodgy' or lumpy foods.....

Still, I'm fine with Pizza Hut, McDonalds, Kentucky, Cod and chips.... What more do I need

Anyone top that?

Always glad to help

i never really noticed anything major in mine.

Is it not a case of most aerotops that the designers add extra stiffness else where to compensate for some loss or the roof ?

They do have added strangthing or else they'd probably snap in half over a period of time! But it's not as good as a good ole' roof!

In fairness, I have driven a few Aeros and they aren't as bad as I'm making out, I'm just trying to wind Dude up

There is a difference with and without roof, they just tend to shudder a bit on bumpy corners and potholes when the roofs off. - But they do look the part

Do luck make a floor bar set that stiffens em right up as well

 

Dude

Almost as much as a hardtop in stock form!

Hmm weird maybe I could pop down when you are free to have one of your guys take a look. It doesnt happen all the time though

You're more than welcome, although trying to rectify intermittant faults when they're not showing the fault, isn't an easy task!

That's a strange one!

Yes, I have got the bonnet switches available, and yes, if it plays up, you should get extra indicator flashes and a couple of extra beeps to let you know, but it shouldn't have anything to do with disarming the alarm....

Thanks for the kind comment

The Concept 650 is technically the replacement for the Concept 300, and the Intelliguard 950 is the successor to the Concept 600.

However, neither units now have window closures built in as standard, (the C600 used to), but both units now have dual zone proximity sensor, and Blackjax, (which was the main reason to upgrade from the C300 to the C600).

Some companies are really anal about giving out certificates when the alarm has any additions. IMHO they're only being awkward as you have still had a Thatcham tested product fitted, and the fact that there is something else fitted that could compromise the 'tested specificatio' is a massive grey area.

With regard to what's the best alarm, that's really subjective and down to personal preference and experience. We only really do Clifford and Toad, but we have Sigma, Laserline, Selca, Micro-scan, at our disposal. In the past we've also dealt with Scorpion, Cobra and a few others.

IMHO, and it is my opinion, I prefer Toad for reliability and back-up, but Clifford wins for me due to the features and gadgets they offer.

With a Toad system, they're really easy to install/set-up with no strange quirks. Cliffords need a bit more time spent on the installation and this is what sometimes causes the end user to have problems. A bad installation can make them do all sorts of odd things which makes for a bad experience to anyone that's had an iffy one in the past.

Whilst I'm sure any Sextons branch could/should offer you good installation at competetive prices, they won't have come across RLTC before. Although I'm more than happy to share any information/technical support with another Sextons branch, so the choice is yours

Hope that helps a bit.

Not really an embarrassing moment, but, about a year or so ago, we were visiting my wifes sister in their new home.

We were just looking out of her kitcken window at their front garden when a BMW pulled into their close.

They slowed down to have a look at the Supra, then the woman in the passenger side gestured the 'wanker' sign at the car, and they drove off....

Connect up your laptop again and go for a drive.

Select the 'Monitor' option in the software and you should see all the channels, (wheels), reading the same.

We've had problems with 'spiking' wheel speed sensors before due to the stock ABS unit having a low/weak voltage, and this can cause problems. More so, at higher speeds.

We've also experienced problems with the RL unit having difficulty reading RPM if there's more than one device connected to/monitoring the same RPM wire from the ECU.

Whilst your at it, re-check the wheel allocations.

I suspect it's going to be a sensor fault. Terminators dat files don't get any better so I doubt it's going to be software related.

After next weekend , see new post

 

Dude

Once he's welded the roof back on to stop the car from flexing on corners!

Naaah, don't get an Aero-flop!

Ask Terry for a demo ride in his VVTi with a T61 and see what you think....

Not connecting it won't hurt anything, just means your stereo won't mute when the phones in use.

Definitely don't connect it to the yellow on the ISO or it will smoke. If you have an aftermarket unit, the mute wire, if it has one, should be fairly clear.

Light blue on Sony

Brown on Kenwood

Yello, (sometimes with black hoops) on Pioneer

Pink/black on Alpine

Yellow (permanant) is not normally connected Mine isnt. (incase you flatten battery)Unless you want to work it with your ignition off. If your H/U is muted you must have a "tel mute" in your H/U. (normally pink) Either cut it off, or check the settings on your H/U. Did you wire any of it to your H/U i.e the red live?

That's a tad frightning. The yellow is the mute wire!!!

Just to clarify, for Nokia kits only...

Red - Permanant live 12v

Blue - Ignition/Acc live 12v

Black - Earth

Yellow - Mute (Low current negative output).

Green - Mute (low current positive output).

If the green wire isn't used, make sure it's insulated.

Assuming you've connected the yellow mute wire to your stereo, check that this wire isn't grounded some-how. (pinched cable).

Check your wiring first, (although there's not much you can get wrong!). If you've fitted the cradle, check that you haven't pinched the cable...

Failing that, it sounds like a duff control unit.

Without looking it's hard to tell, but if the siren has been removed from the engine bay, it must mean the main control unit is still present and its the internal siren sounding.

LOL, yes thanks kosmic

When I say not for technophobes, bear in mind that we have allsorts of customers and some just can't get to grips with entering the code.

The fact that it needs to be entered every time you drive the car or a door is opened whilst the engine is running. - And it really freaks some people out when it activates and they can no longer turn it off by remote control

Slightly back on topic.

The main pros and cons for single are really personal issues.

1, The lag is acceptable depending on whether you have manual or auto and what size turbo you choose.

2, The costs are acceptable depending on how far/fast you want to go.

3, Traction, or lack of is obviously a byproduct related directly to the above two

4, Reliability is totally dependant on which kit is chosen, and again refering back to no's 1 & 2. - Either way, I find the Single much neater and easier to diagnose turbo related problems.

Personally I have the T67 on my car running 1.4 bar. I have no regrets about the size of the turbo and I find the lag is more than acceptable.

I get full power just before where the old sequential system starts working and the power delivery is much more linea.

The turbo is also more than capable of running much higher boost is ever I feel the need

I get positive boost around 2000-2500rpm, so lag really isn't a big problem for me.

The invalidation of Thatcham approval is a massive grey area. The scaremongering came about a few years ago when some young bod at the MIRRC bought a Clifford system with Intellistart. His boss alegedly jumped on the phone and complained that the system was now in breach of the original testing compliance.

Now, strictly speaking, ANY alterations you make to the system from the way it comes out of the box means you've invalidated the Thatcham compliance.

So, changing the arm/disarm chirps invalidates the approval as much as turning on Blackjax.

I've heard all the scare stories, but as yet, I've never, ever, heard of anyone, or any insurance company that has refused to pay out due to changing features on an alarm system.

As for not supplying a certificate.... What a load of jobsworth jerks.

Blackjax takes about 2 minutes to activate, BTW

IMHO, it's an excellent feature, but not for technophobes.

Have you checked the other gauge? - They piggy-back from one to the other...

purely a guess....

If you have no active spoiler, either the connection under the bumper would have had to be bridged, or the ECU unplugged behind the radio.

I'd guess the ECU was unplugged and your alarm installer had probably plugged it in, thinking he must have disturbed/pulled it out.

As for the Defi gauges, if one works and the other now doesn't, I'd guess he's forgotten to plug it in at either the gauge, or the controller.

I doubt there's anything to worry about, and I'm sure if you take it back, they'll be happy to rectify it... (Although they may not know what they've done to make the spoiler light flash, so you may need to point them in the right direction).

Oi!!!

And besides, how can Mig ever be an inbred? - 1/3 Irish, 1/3 Spanish, 1/3 weirdo!