fredm

Can someone please point me in the right direction to learn how to add a picture to a post. I have done a search but not found anything. Is there a thread somewhere that explains how? Thanks.

Main Dealers really piss me off with all their bullshit, sticking choke my arse. I think the problem will be back unfortunately. It sounds to me like an intermittant open circuit in the wiring loom. First off I would check the main chassis earth strap, should be in real good condition, make sure where it attaches to the body is clean (rust free) and tight. Next check the large maxi fuses for a good fit, take them out and make sure the blades are not corroded, clean them up with wet and dry. Next thing is to check the wiring loom for any multiplugs that might have wiggled loose, it's unlikely but maybe if you have had other work done recently it could be that plugs have not been properly snapped back together. Ideally you want to try and replicate the fault with the car on the driveway then you can hunt around with a multimeter. A good way of checking circuit continuity is by checking for "volts drop" on a circuit while it is under load, it's tricky to explain though. In my opinion it would be worth getting a good auto electrician to spend an hour checking your car out, the last thing you need is the car cutting out in busy traffic. Good luck.

Leak oil into engine? Ha ha ha ha stop it my tummy hurts ! Ha ha ha ha ......

Interesting these arguments, here's something to think on. In 1985 the firm I worked for bought about 75 1600 Cavaliers for run on the fleet. These vehicles were hammered from day 1 by people who had no mechanical sympathy whatsoever. And I mean hammered. In fact I remember when doing the P.D.I.'s taking several up to the redline in all gears just to see what they would do (I'm older and more sensible now...........I would at least warm the engine first!). Anyway we had the cavaliers for 3 years and sold them with on average around 100,000 although some had 150,000 miles on the clock. If we had turned back the clocks to 50,000 you would not have been able to tell, they ran perfect, no smoke, no rattles and I cannot remember having any mechanical problems with the engines at all. Now I am covinced that the reason we never had a problem is because the vehicles were serviced religiously every 6000miles without fail, oil and filter every time. Another case to ponder, we run diesel vans in the company I work for now and they get hammered on a daily basis, I know because I drive one. The vans also spend quite a lot of time idling doing nothing. Never a good thing for an engine (unless it was designed for it) it doesn't do things like cams and followers any good. The company sells them after 3 years and they often have up to 120,000 on the clock. Again, they don't smoke,rattle etc. and I can't remember the last time we had an engine problem; clutch and g/box plenty. Again they get serviced religiously every 10,000 miles. For the last 4 years Halford's has been doing the servicing and they use the same standard oil that they use for their customer servicing.I know because I often stand next to the guys as they sevice the van. I agree with everything that paul mac has said and I have thought the same for the last 15 odd years. It is nice to give your engine the very best, it's just that for some cars it just isn't necessary. My UK TT has now got 90,000 on the clock, I am the 6th owner and I have a got a service book with a dealer stamp every 9000 miles (+ or - a couple of hundred either way) and it sounds sweet as a nut doesn't smoke pulls like a train etc. etc. Just something to think about.

Look in the back of the Auto Trader or failing that http://www.alloywheelrepairs.co.uk

The Chris Wilson intercooler looks very good but is nearly twice the price of the Radtec. How can the Radtec be so cheap?

Yeah I would agree with Syed Shah. It's the Releasing Agent on the tyres, the stuff helps the tyre come out of it's mould. This morning I put new wheels with new tyres on mine. The TRAC Light flashed like mad as I pulled off my drive and again as I pulled away from the T Junction at the end of our road. It's not done it since.

The pressures for the Lexus GS300 fitted with 18" wheels might be a good place to start. I don't know how heavy a GS300 is, if it's a couple of hundred kilo's heavier you could drop the pressures a couple of pounds. Phone the tyre supplier and ask there advice.

If the clonk occurs just as the gear lever moves into first and reverse it could be that the clutch is just dragging a bit. Try bleeding the clutch.

My advice for what it is worth is take it back to where you bought it and tell them your not happy with the car. Problems with Automatic Transmissions can cost an awfull lot of money to put right. While waiting for the Garage to open you could always check the transmission oil level. On my U.K. Spec. the spoiler drops down at 70mph and the light comes on. The light goes off and the spoiler retract's at about 45mph.

Tyre choice is often a personal thing. Personally, as track days don't feature high on my list of priority's I look at road noise and wear rate. From experience, Michelin Pilot Sports, Bridgestone Potenza RE040, Pirelli P7000 and Uniroyal Rainsports have suited my needs when fitted to BMW's 3 Series. I am about to get some Pirelli P Zero Assimetrico's fitted to my new wheels (235/40 9/18 , 275/35 10/18) as I believe these too will do the business with regard to noise and wear. Speak to a reputable tyre supplier. That may be easier said than done.

Can anyone tell me why you would switch to a single coil and distributor? Advantages?

As much as I like Supra's I wouldn't be seen dead driving that. The shape of the front wheel arch looks totally wrong.

Hi guys, thanks for the info. I popped a new bulb in (after spending half a day trying to locate one) and the light came on, and stayed on. I reset the SRS light using the Diagnostic plug and it's worked o.k. ever since. My local toyota dealer could not identify the bulb I wanted from the parts list. The parts guy could not even identify the warning light clusters on each side of the dash. "Are you sure your car has them fitted, because they are not listed?", I'm sure he thought I was an idiot. I spent half an hour with him searching for the things but we gave up in the end. The guy was well flustered and glad to see the back of me. He probably thought it was a Friday afternoon wind up by the guys in the workshop.

The internal diameters are different, hence the different part numbers.

Thanks for that, I shall confront the salesman later this morning. Taking out the bulb really is a dick's trick. Had I not read the owners handbook I would not have realised there was a problem for ages by which time the warranty would have expired. Thanks.

Hi guys, just been reading the owners manual to my newly acquired UK TT (94) and it says that the airbag warning light should come on for 6 seconds when the ignition is switched on and then go off indicating that the circuit is working correctly. Since I have had the car it has never worked, just took the dash panel out and now I know why, there is no bulb fitted. Also there is no bulb for the seat belt warning light either. Would I be right in thinking that there has been a problem in the past with the SRS light staying on (indicating a fault) and the previous owner has just removed the bulb? Before I go and confront the dealer who sold me the car I would like to confirm that UK TT's should have that light fitted. Thanks.

Only had my TT 3 weeks now but I have clocked up 1000 miles. I have been keeping a check on the mileage/fill ups and I reckon I'm getting about 24mpg, mainly town stuff but that includes one trip into the welsh countryside were the cars performance envolope was explored. Maybe I drive like my Gran.

Hi boys and girls, only had a Soop for a fortnight but thoughts are turning to replacing the exhaust system. Especially as I have been told that a complete de-cat with a less restrictive back box can release up to 25bhp on a standard motor. Thing is, while it would be nice to have a fruitier sound while whizzing through the welsh countryside it would really anoy me to have to listen to a droning exhaust while travelling along the motorway. Does a system exist which is quiet at a constant 70mph but then comes alive when the boost comes on?

Ooops better stick my cheque in the post or I won't be able to play with you nice people anymore. "Wifey where's the cheque book?" "She's gone out in the car again dad". "Again ! ! !, bloody hell!!!!"

No No No the cambelt has only done 20,000 miles but it was fitted 6 years ago. The car is a 94' with 80,000 mile on it. I paid over the odds for it too, wife likes it though, can't get her out of it. "Just going shopping dear". "Again , thats the 4th time today!" "VROOOOM!"

Good evening Chris thanks for the info. Don't forget to give me a call next week if and when you can fit me in, (red TT transmission oil change). Your right about the subframe bolts, impossible to do while lying on my back on the driveway. I'm going to change the Cambelt too, sooner rather than later, it's only done 20,000 miles but it is 6 years old now. Thanks.

Hey guys , thats great, thanks for the info. I asked because when looking at the cam covers when fitted to the engine there is no way of telling how the cams are located. I have only owned a Supra for just over 48 hours and only lifted the bonnet of one 6 days ago. Asking the question was the easiest way to find out as I spent a hour this afternoon trying to find a picture on the various sites that would elicit the information I needed. A lot of todays manufacturers do use the cam cover to locate the cams. I'm sure I will manage to put things back in the right order, thanks for your concern anyway.

Just a quickie, anybody know if the cams are held down by the cam covers? I want to remove the covers for painting if they actually hold down and locate the cams it makes the job a whole lot more involving and time consuming because of the need to remove the cambelt etc. Thanks.

Hell I must be looking in the wrong places, I feel like I have clicked on a million images over the past week. I'm sure some 18" CH's would do the biz. Apparently they are only available in 8.5" width for the Supra, but I have been assured that would be o.k. with a 235 on the front and you can just squeeze a 255 on the rear. I'll carry on surfin the sites, lets face it I ain't going to be able to sleep tonight.