JohnA

The homebrew often has transmission oil instead of 2T. But your percentages are in the right ball park;)

ditto

The whole bonnet scoop function is a bit of a moot point outside autobahns. You'd need to sustain full boost for quite some time before it comes into play. This is jailtime nowadays (if at all possible with all this traffic) So it's nowhere near as important as the bigger brakes for example. As for the dildii --- they are for the laydeez:eyebrows:, design-wise daft and prone to damage.

boost is static pressure. There is also total pressure, which is more representative of power potential (it includes static pressure) Yes. the kinetic energy of molecules registers as pressure. But for power you need more of these molecules, not necessarily more bouncy ones. yes, if temperature is kept unchanged. Doesn't happen easily in real life though. Ever heard of terms like isothermic, adiabatic? For more power you need to pair more oxygen molecules to (suitably) more fuel molecules. Higher readings on a boost gauge don't guarantee that.

I'll go fetch my G-suit, don't want all this acceleration to knock me unconcious...

NCB 'protection' is a con, making lots of money for the insurance companies. You get back NOTHING like they make you believe. Your premium is calculated around your risk profile, and having had claims in the past few years seriously affects that (no matter what the nominal NCB figure is)

As said, static pressure (boost) doesn't necessarily translate to power. Power needs oxygen and fuel molecules working together. Pressure you can get simply by heating things up. Sure, you'd get lots of boost, but not many molecules bouncing around (so power would ultimately be low)

The bonnet scoop on UKSpec is functional. So if you look under the bonnet there is a matching air passage sticking out from the engine. None of the 'addon' scoops I've seen go all the way - in fact some don't even cut through the bonnet!

...and there lies the catch. Just because they are 'dealers' and want your custom doesn't mean that you want to trust them. Doesn't mean that they know the car Doesn't mean they have 'inside' information Alas no....

I pay half that without any fraud involved (through SKY lol...) As for your 'fully comp' cover driving any car, just wait until you make a claim and see... Do you think they're stupid or incompetent? They're in business to make money, getting your misrepresented premiums works fine for their bottom line. They just won't pay out later, and do you for lying if you get fresh. Wake up.

This is nothing:eyebrows: compared to the epic battles in the days of the Dude. Blessim.

Yeah, go on, treat yourself. you know you want to.:innocent:

In theory the seller can also pull it from the auction any time before the end, using any excuse he likes. I stuck it in 'My eBay', curious to see how pinky does:)

How about proper glass headlights instead of yellow plastic ones? Or a rear diff cooler? Proper metal exh turbine blades that don't come unstuck through the exh pipe? larger A/R ratio that allows lower EGTs at prolonged full throttle? Larger capacity fuel pump? 550cc injectors (mapped properly from the factory too)? ....the list goes on.......

It would then be a good idea to check on the WB every now and then, you really don't want to be running lean under boost. Fuel pump / injector / FPR failures, whatever the reason, why risk the engine eh...

A bit less than that, but that's why the RR graphs are useful. The whole power curve changes, so from a point onwards you may find the trade-offs unacceptable. (say if you gain 5bhp on top and lose 10bhp down south) Also be careful with the seat of pants gotcha: If you lose midrange and topend stays the same, the car will feel *more* powerful because of the perceived increase after midrange. Times will be worse, but the feeling of urgency will mask the pure losses. A dyno graph would show this, however;)

NOOOOOOOOO just advance the damn thing a bit!

I've found turbo timing to be quite more involved compared to n/a. Certainly less predictable. Supercharged engines, yes, they are almost like n/a. Turbochargers though create abnormally high exh pressures at high loads, and they don't exactly increase linearly. Also the turbocharger acts as a loose coupling between intake and exhaust, so whenever you change the timing on one it also affects the timing of the other one (but to a lesser extent) Dialling the cams to differing degrees also changes overlap and this affects boost leaking straight to the exhaust (in generously sized exh housings) or more often reversion (in tight exh housings, like stock setups) Sometimes you may find the best results in dialling the cams in the opposite direction (say retard inlet by 10deg and advance exh by 5 deg). This particular exh intervention would fill some of the midrange hole created by the inlet setup (which you'd want to keep because of the frenetic topend) Or it could be the other way round, hence the need for a dyno, since the 'seat of pants' dyno is often pants.

Probably, you don't have to dismantle a lot to dial the cams a bit, do you? Otherwise you'll never know if you are near the optimal cam settings - to minimise effort I'd dial them a bit more than necessary, and if it feels funny then dial back half way.

Wez, advance both cams a bit, otherwise you'd be also affecting overlap (which you may or may not want to do) As Ryan said, it's best done on a dyno so you can try different setups and see how much is 'too much'

Hell yeah, you wouldn't want stock cams with a turbo like this. Stock cams have to deal with the abnormally high backpressure of the sequential system, starting from very low revs. However we're talking n/a here, where no gain comes without real pain.

'increase' is a bit of a misleading word here. Wild cams will shift power around the rev range. You may trade 30bhp down low for an extra 20bhp near the redline, that sort of thing. The trick is to be realistic about how often you'll be using those extra ponies and how often you'll be cursing for losing pulling power down south.

Once you cheat the fuel cut, 'safety' becomes a relative term I.e. beyond 1 bar you're on your own. Until then you are exploiting safety margins built-in by the designers. From then onwards you are pushing components beyond the limits where they are expected to have OEM life expectancy. 1.2 bar can be well into danger territory, partly because it doesn't lead to the same stresses all the time. Boost is not a measure of work or power, it is airflow restriction. So seeing '1.2' bar on an aftermarket boost gauge on a hot summer day in top gear can be very different to '1.2' bar on a brief RR run in the winter. One could bring the engine to the edge of destruction, the other could be repeated several times with no tears. As for the detonation, I was surprised to HEAR detonation on mine while on a hub RR, keeping in mind that it has got the 550cc injectors and it was only maxxing out at 1.1bar on that day. Usually I'd be inside the car under those conditions and the general wind/tyre noise would have drowned it, but this time I was sitting next to the car while someone else was pushing the pedal. I was surprised, and readjusted my WI to kick in earlier than before. Mind you, it was a bit after an ECU reset, but still I expected no det whatsoever under those conditions. No *audible* det certainly. So there you go. AFRs are not the be-all and end-all, just another parameter that needs to be monitored.

Is it a EuroSpec or JSpec that you've got? JSpecs are more 'on the edge' at 1.2 bar Also 'nessesary' could mean different things to different people. In my view a WB on a tuned turbo car is a must, while others wouldn't even regard it as a 'nice to have' once the car has been set on a RR. I think it's down to your own level of comfort with how much of the internal workings you want to know about

These figures indicate that you may not need to take off the cyl head. If leakdown figures are equally encouraging, you're a lucky man