carl0s

So he didn't die then?

no! it was all just a nice wet dream.

aaah that made me laugh

internet consultant services, ics for short.

webtech

internet support services

I bought some pitiful veilsnide spats which were so poor, that I sent them to another member to decide if he liked them, and when he said no thanks they're shit, I just said bin 'em or keep 'em or try to find some mug to buy them. Not worth bothering with postage over, but it is disappointing all the same.

That's a wierd resolution. What sort of display are you outputting to?

There are some tools which allow you to set custom resolution, but I'm not sure if there are restrictions on just how custom you can go.

uh oh. Like John said, you you should keep a close eye on your crank pulley from now on as it may well break apart and go flying through your bonnet or radiator

http://spcc.invisionzone.com/index.php?showtopic=49

Only kidding, nice car

A message to all - leghumpers you've been warned!

 

Sounds like shes an automotive golddigger - blows better than a big single?

Anyone got pics?

Ooh what have I missed

Makes sense now, doesn't it? lol....

yes

ah shit.. completely forgot. I fitted a ball and spring type boost controller ages ago

Sorry..

I only hit >13.5psi at high speed remember.

That is strange.

If you have UK turbos, then you must have the larger wastegate. (my assumption being that all UKSpec engines are the same in this respect)

 

Here's an idea --- have you checked if you have any boost leaks from the hoses around the actuator? They can all get brittle and develop tiny cracks that only leak under full pressure.

You'd have to give me a clue how and where to check that John. I have no idea about all the actuators and VSVs et cetera.

Another thing: have you got a boost controller fitted?

 

Because without tapping into the wastegate boost signal mine wouldn't boost AT ALL over stock settings.

hmm. no. Just decatted and free flowing exhaust. The car basically has 3" piping near enough straight through from the turbo back to the tailpipe.

I'm not suggesting anybody go ahead and do the job without first getting a continuity-tester (cheap multimeter) on there first though and checking it's the correct resistor. My car is a UK spec and so the ECU may be different to the Jap ones.

Given that you joined it into the wrong wire on the loom to start with though are you still sure that's the right resistor anyway?

Yep. I did mention that is *was* the correct resistor, considering my booboo.

The car in question is a VERY well known Supra on these boards. I probably should not mention just which one until the deal is finalised but needless to say that Supra will be staying with this club.

is it... Tango coloured?

I strongly disagree here.

Why would you have to unsolder resistors that you're not 100% certain of what they do? Do you have the full schematics of the ECU and can tell for sure what the repercussions will be?

Why open the ECU box in the first place? I don't get this. What if you get water/coolant/moisture there in the future? It's on the footwell after all, water can come from underneath or the dreaded heater matrix. Will the ECU be tight enough to resist?

And what makes you think that a fuel-cut-free ECU is a *good* thing?

Why would Toyota fit one if it's redundant?

 

We want to *raise* the fuel cut level, not eliminate it.

The Thor gizmo does just that.

Otherwise if an actuator hose pops off you may be looking at meltdown. Why risk it?

 

I think you misunderstood on the resistor/FCD thing. The idea is that since the MAP pin comes straight to that resistor from the connector block, you would wire the FCD in there, meaning you don't have to cut up the main ECU loom. The resistor wouldn't be removed, it would be put back in-circuit along with the MAP in/out of the FCD.

If the ECU had've had wires coming from the connecting block onto the PCB then I'd have cut one of those instead of considering removing the resistor.

I sort of agree on the moisture point, but considering that now, I would just replenish the foam stuff around the edges. It's basically this stuff:

http://www.uk2sucks.net/foam.jpg

UK with jap bonnet and that's a toy!

ehehee lol spot on mate

Jap bumper too

CrAzY

yeah it is. I used to discuss r/c helicopters and we would constantly be amazed at people paying over retail for gyros and things.

Chris, Stuart (Cree) had something like this set up years ago with his house phone.. switching the washing machine on and stuff I think. Was many years ago when I was a little nipper and my uncle was telling me. Maybe he'll have an idea..

Crikey. I just listed this starting at £1, Buy-it-Now £100, and it's sold in like 4 minutes.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8761243937&ssPageName=ADME:L:EOISSA:UK:31

I wonder if the buyer has made a mistake. It ain't worth much I don't think! Maybe I should have checked completed auctions first ?

Which red light is that mate?

Boost alarm on the SPA boost gauge Had it set for 15psi. I lifted off after ~1.5 sec of the alarm light.

Thats 1.21 bar then matey. It will easily hit that and more. My car before it had its restrictor ring fitted hit 1.5 bar.

but.. but.. but I'm UK Spec. I thought they generally didn't boost spike much at all? I think the only reason I'm getting this much boost is 'cause I have a full 3" decat instead of the more common 2.5".

Told ya it was so much quicker with the fcd off. Now you gotta make sure that it doesn't overboost

I'll set my boost alarm for 18 psi. I don't think it'll ever go off. In all my time of having the gauge fitted, I've never gone beyond 17.9. (it's a SPA digital gauge which remembers peak boost & temp).