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carl0s

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Posts posted by carl0s

  1. What do you need for a Halfords trade card? Just a comp slip or business card?

    I work for an aerospace company but wouldn't mind one for my own cash purchases.

     

    Sorry for being off topic;)

     

    It's at the store person's discretion, so just ask nicely, or just take a fake wage slip for A B Auto Mechanics bought from eBay.

  2. See if you can find some server mounting rails, they are brilliant for workshop things. Also worth looking at business closing sales, they usually have interesting cupboards and stuff :)

     

    That's a clever idea. Thanks :)

  3. I suppose I could just have one of these under the worktop:

    http://www.mygaragestore.com/images/products/stack/1605_lrg.jpg

     

    but I have seriously over spent by about a grand, which I didn't realise 'til I hit the cash machine last night, so I want something I can knock together for £30 - £50 quid. £50 pains me, so definitely no more :)

  4. Hi guys.

     

    I have built a worktop in the shed. It's about bellybutton height.

     

    I want a roller shelf that I can have tools and other things in. (I want two or three next to each other actually).

     

    Basically I want a metal slide-out drawer, exactly like what the toolboxes (Snap On, Clarke, etc.) have.

     

    Any ideas where I can buy such a thing, or does anybody have a better and easier-to-implement idea?

     

    I want to store tools (I have about a bucket full of various tools), and I want to store nuts and bolts in the others.

     

    The idea is that the shelf will be mounted to the underside of the worktop, so I can still have junk and big things on the floor under the worktop.

     

    thanks.. if you have any ideas please hit me with them pronto because I'd like to have it done shortly so I can start pulling this engine apart.

  5. Well, I got the engine out. Only took me about 10 hours :rolleyes: :)

     

    Was a bit of a pain to get it up the two steps off the driveway, then down the narrow pathway at side of house, down step towards shed, then up step into shed, but we got there with the help of the crane and a creeper board!

     

    So it's in the shed now waiting for me to go and get some M9 (I think) x 90mm metric fine bolts so that I can mount it to my engine stand via the gearbox mounts.

  6. Had my RX7 for 2 years now. Loving it currently fitting a gt4088 to it. Depending on the reason for engine failure I may have the part to help as I bought what was supposed to be a working ported engine but turned out to be a blown std engine (took the guy to court got nearly all the money back and got to keep the engine). Only part of the engine that is unusable is the fron plates so let me know what has fail and may be able to help.

     

    The rats nest is a nightmare seen several of them now and so glad I've a 99 spec so no nest just a funky box.

     

    Ah, cool. I might be in touch, thanks :-)

    So the '99 cars have a totally different sequential system?

  7. Had a play on a HTC Magic (Vodafone Android handset) at my customer's place (Vodafone agent) on Friday. Really really nice, much better size/feel than the T-Mobile G1.

     

    That's all really. Anybody thinking of getting one?

  8. Having bought the RX7, I need to sell my R/C heli kit. I built the kit after I got it, and I built it very well. I only hovered it in the back yard and haven't bothered since. I'm not a total newbie to helis having had a Sceadu 50 about 5 years ago. I haven't cut any corners on this one whatsoever, so it has the ideal gyro, ideal tail servo, high end transmitter and receiver etc.

     

    The heli:

     

    Align T-Rex 450SE v2 carbon black fibre / ali helicopter.

    Futaba GY401 gyro

    Futaba s9257 digital high speed tail servo

    Hitec HS65MG metal gear cyclic servos

    JR RS77S PCM synthesised 7ch receiver

    JR PCM 9x mkII synthesised 9ch transmitter

    Cellpro Revolution 4s li-po charger

    20A mains PSU to run above charger

    Cables for running charger from car ciggy lighter socket

    All manuals, tx & rx charger, flight-case box etc.

     

    Phoenix Simulator, most people's preferred heli simulator, with USB adaptor to fit the JR transmitter. (See here)

     

    Also a HPI Savage monster truck. Think it's a .25 engine, not looked at it for a while. With basic transmitter, chargers etc, some spare spur gears and a relatively expensive steering servo.

    Looking for £700 for heli or £800 for the lot (heli + truck).

     

    pics:

     

    http://www.css-networks.com/heli/1.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/heli/2.JPG

    http://www.css-networks.com/heli/3.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/heli/4.JPG

    http://www.css-networks.com/heli/5.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/heli/6.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/heli/7.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/heli/8.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/heli/9.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/heli/10.JPG

    http://www.css-networks.com/heli/11.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/heli/12.JPG

    http://www.css-networks.com/heli/13.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/heli/14.JPG

    http://www.css-networks.com/heli/15.JPG

     

    Here are some cost prices for the heli.

     

    T-Rex Kit - £280 (wherever)

    Receiver - £65 (http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=19444)

    Transmitter - £340 (http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=22036)

    Charger for TX (above comes without) - £15

    GY401 Gyro - £120 (http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=866)

    S9257 Tail Servo - £70 (http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=25995)

    Cellpro charger - £50 (http://www.revolutionmodels.co.uk/acatalog/Top_Field___Mains_voltage_Chargers_43.html) Mine is the improved A123 model though.

    PSU for charger - £35 (http://www.modelhelicopters.co.uk/acatalog/Chargers_Various.html)

    HS65MG servos - £66 (http://www.revolutionmodels.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww.revolutionmodels.co.uk%2facatalog%2fTop_Field___Mains_voltage_Chargers_43.html&WD=hs65&SHOP=%20&PN=Top_Ace__Hitec__Align_Servos_1.html%23a2469#a2469)

    Phoenix Sim - £78 (http://www.revolutionmodels.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2erevolutionmodels%2eco%2euk%2fcgi%2dbin%2fsh000001%2epl%3fREFPAGE%3dhttp%253a%252f%252fwww%252erevolutionmodels%252eco%252euk%252facatalog%252fTop_Field___Mains_voltage_Chargers_43%252ehtml%26WD%3dhs65%26SHOP%3d%2520%26PN%3dTop_Ace__Hitec__Align_Servos_1%252ehtml%2523a2469&WD=phoenix&SHOP=%20&PN=New_Items%2ehtml%23a1_212331#a1_212331)

     

    That's a total of £1,119.

    ..+plus Ray's Authoritative Heli Manual book, plus pitch gauge and other bits and pieces.

  9. Happy with todays results at SRR (thanks Ryan) this was at 95% duty and 1.8bar (i put a splash of unleaded race fuel in to be on the safe side but Ryan feels it would not have made any difference) to get any further id need bigger injectors, a full fuel system and some cams.

     

     

    Id like a proper C16 leaded race fuel map really but that will have to wait till next year when i have some more duty cycle to play with.

     

     

    Had a bit of messing about with the coil packs and plugs to try and find out why it would not go over 1.5 bar without having a missfire, turned out to be some dodgy coil packs, Ryan kindly let me use his and ill be ordering some more on monday, thanks LeeP for changing them and thanks to Steve for the the tools:thumbs:

     

     

    I wont touch the car anymore this year, just going to enjoy it over the summer.

     

     

    632bhp (536atw's) 545ftlb:cool:

     

    http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c338/jamie450x/015-6.jpg

     

     

    632 horsepower is an insane amount on power and I don't think needs messing with at all. I really like how you kept the look mostly stock, it does look better - more like a proper car than a messed-with boyracer car. You, Ryan Woon, and everyone else who doesn't "bodykit" have got it right.

     

    Surely anything much more than this 632hp just becomes a dragracer?

  10. Power FC controls everything, the FD model is probably the best of the Power FC ECU's. The default map is based on a stock car with maybe an exhaust on it. BE SURE that whoever maps it understands rotaries. Although simple, if the engine has housing corrosion into any waterways or O ring grooves, it can be costly to fix. Similarly, rotor housing wear or rotor tip groove wear needs addressing properly. You need to have advice from an expert on the first one you tackle, IMO.

     

    Most of the rats nest of pipework should be renewed, and with proper "rubber" hose, not silicone, and consider changing the solenoids too, as heat makes them die or play up. All this mounts up...

     

    If the rotor appears reusable I will certainly check out the groove wear and use appropriately sized seals/springs, but i'll ask questions along the way. I have what i think is a rather good dial test indicator for checking flatness and eccentric shaft runout and what not, but it's like the mints.. imperial. I'll just have to convert units. I don't have the thing that the dti should be mounted to though.. Another purchase I'm sure.

    Replacing hoses sounds like something i'll do. I was chatting with Stuart (cree) today and he reminded me that you used to be well into these cars. Howard sounded interested in it too.. He's played with rx-3's a long time ago. I was half expecing a 'what have you gone and bought one of those for' but he was interested which is nice.

     

    I'll post some pictures along the way... Hopefully you'll see the questions and maybe be able to advise on some things :-)

     

    Pleased to hear the apexi is good. You'll be horrified to hear the car hat TVR alloys on it.. Must be at least 18 inches!

     

    I've paid two grand. I waved 1750, then 1800, then 1900 under his nose but he was having none of it!

  11. Holy shit dude, 10 out of 10 for balls... I just got rid of my RX7 when the engine died.

     

    The engine itself is very simple (only 3 moving parts inside :) ) but the bad bit is all the 'rest nest' of pressure hosing on top of the engine that controls when the turbos come in etc...

     

    You should probably try rebuilding it with a single tubby attached, cos then you can ditch 99% of the 'rest nest'

     

    As for actually rebuilding it, it fairly simple once its all out and on the bench (if you're that way inclined), but its very important to use top quality components (the apex seals and gaskets etc)... there is a very good series of DVDs out there (you can find info on them on http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com and http://www.fduk.org those are the 2 main RX7 forums)...

     

    Once its built, you'll need to get it properly mapped, Its good to hear its got an Apexi ECU, this means you can get it mapped properly, and obviously you now have control over every parameter in the ECU. The Commander is useful, but is only really used to set very minor engine parameters and for giving a read out of the more detailed ones... you can't change the map with it for example.

     

    Good Luck!

     

    That's interesting to know. I wouldn't have realised that the ecu could do more than the commander says.

     

    I already have the DVDs which is why I like the look of the job.

     

    Seller assures me it's just seals and rest of engine is good, has been out and checked, but I don't believe him and am expecting a gauged (does that say gauge or gowje? You get the idea) rotor and housing. Typing on mobile phone so excuse shortness :-) missus is having a huff, not over the car though thankfully - something much more ridiculous than that!

     

    Oh, by the way, surely it's "rat's nest" that's how the cliche/phrase goes anyway, isn't it?

  12. The engine itself is tiny. Once you take off all the ancillaries (sp) and connections. you'll probably be able to lift it out and carry it on your own.

     

    What I don't know is what to do though.. I mean, I suppose I get in under the car, and unbolt the gearbox from the flywheel or something, pull off all hoses that go somewhere (rad hoses, a/c hoses etc), take off all turbo stuff, manifolds and what not, unbolt engine mounts and take engine out, but I have no clue and particularly don't know what I'm doing as far as the gearbox side of things goes.

     

    He gave me a CD with service manuals on it, and I have the EPC downloading, so maybe that'll shed some light, or I'll search the RX7 forums properly.

  13. Cool indeed :) Would love to get an FD and put a V8 in it, although all the rotary boys would hate it. Looking forward to the pics. What colour is it?

     

    It's midnight black or something. It's black with a very subtle hint of blue in it.

    My initial plans were to sell my r/c heli or swap it for a rolling shell or car with a blown engine, and maybe find some other engine to put in it, but I like the idea of fixing the rotary now because it looks nice and easy & fun.

  14. The engine itself is tiny. Once you take off all the ancillaries (sp) and connections. you'll probably be able to lift it out and carry it on your own.

     

    I'm just building a worktop in the shed now for working on it. Really looking forward to pulling it apart.

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