Rich J

No idea Ash, I think he's trying to find out what sound is being picked up and interpreted as knock by the sensing equipment.

Interesting link posted up on the Supraforums BBS, thought I would post it up for those not following the AEM ECU thread on there. http://pw1.netcom.com/~bsundahl/knock/sound/KnockSounds.htm

That's because not all of them have LSD.

Anyone know the price?

Do the Honda wideband sensors work on the 0?V to 1V range, I have an A/F ratio meter and I was going to put it on the Integra but wasn't sure if the wideband O2 sensor fitted would be giving ou the right signal.

All A/F meters attached to stock O2 sensors do this on cruising and idle is something to do with the ECU using the 02 sensor to adjust the fueling for economy. Happened on both cars I have had a A/F meter attached to the stock sensor (two different A/F meters also), the difference in O2 levels is onlt slight but causes a big change in voltage (and therefor a big shift in the lights that are on)

Bit slow. :wink: The Teg R was getting over 120MPH on the straight (on a good exit from the previous corner) before braking at the hairpin before the pit straight.

The MANU override changed significantly from the MkIII to the MkIV, have a read through the Toyota manuals on http://www.mkiv.com it details the changes from the MKIII system to the MkIV system. If I remember rightly (long time since I read it), the MkIII system would go into 3rd even with the stick in the 2nd gear position, which doesn't happen in the MkIV, a few other things as well.

I did see on one of the posts on the US forum that the new AEM ECU could be set up on a US car to not need the AFM without using a VPC, so I suppose it must be able to do all the fueling on RPM/Boost/TP etc I suppose the main thing is if the pinouts are the same on UK/US/Jap ECUs with only inputs/outputs missing rather than swapped about on the pins. The PowerFC is a great peice of kit, I have fitted one to my Integra Type R, I am running the standard Jap ignition/injection settings with no problems in this weather. So my ITR should be running 200PS intead of 190PS as the UK and Jap Teg R engines are physically identical. The guy who does my servicing said he could feel the difference from last time (cat and filter modded only at that time). The only thing I have found is that Honda really push the injectors when accelerating I have hit over 97% injector cycle at 7500rpm (still 700rpm to go), so it looks like I will be upgrading my injectors before the bigger cams go in.

Doubt it will be helpful as I've played around with my settings alot, and mine came from JF and never had a specific baseline file for the Integra.

Nice little ptogram Graham, so when are you going to write the Windows Datalogger.

Lock up garage FWD "shed" for winter driving

Mine was exactly the same at 1.2-1.4kg.cm2, I even went so far as to influence the fueling with my S-AFC and had to set it 10% lean to get the last light to turn off (didn't even turn off for the full run) (Edited by HardHead42 at 7:23 pm on Nov. 7, 2001)

Credit card was 743.40 (2053.80 AUS$ exchange was 0.36196/£ ) I think I only paid about 100 quid to the tax man which I thought strange at the time but I wasn't complaining. Looks like prices have gone up.

You really should have been using MANU mode on track, you would have greater control of the gear you are in and more than enough engine braking. Next time

It's not actually that uncommon for after market chips to be programmed using a ROM emulator and software under windows, you never have windows controlling the ECU directly but it can be used to adjust the ECU program on the fly, you then blow the adjusted program/data onto a PROM and install that into the ECU (Hondata does it this way), runing the fueling, ignition etc of a car would take a fraction of the processing power of even a crappy laptop, but just wait until the OpenGL screen saver kicks in :cheesy:

Yes it will be a replacement dial, I have one that I never used, goes upto 110MPH but it would depend on who made it what it went upto.

Never done it on a SUpra but have done it on an FTO, first I would suggest removing the pin that it sits against, then turn on the ignition, the needle will float (probably on the wrong site of the hole that the pin was in), take note of the position, remove the needle, face etc and replace with new face, install in car and switch the ignition to on, place the needle where it was before it was changed, go out for a drive. Hope this helps.

I believe you can get an Ohlins kit for about 3K from Japan but isn't the spec that PW wanted at the time.

I think I have those poly bushes, and I know I have Ohlins suspension (no-one has discussed the option of fitting these?) and the tyre noise is rather loud, and the ride is the hardest I've ever experienced, but the handling is fantastic! Even over scabrous Norfolk roads, there is enough give in the suspension to avoid bump steering and too much tramlining, I think it was set up spot on - any harder would be over the top. Dunno if the roll bars were uprated, I must ask, after the earlier stiffer suspension vs uprated rollbar rant. -Ian I believe your car has the GREX/TRUST uprated antiroll bars, pretty sure that's what Paul said to me when he had it. If I remember correctly the Ohlins were from Sweden rather than Japan and were around the 5K mark probably why people arn't considering them. Rich

I ran Porterfield R4-S and DOT5.1 on the Supra at Bentwaters with no fade and little pad wear, braking from about 120-125MPH on the back striaght and 100-110MPH before the pit. The R4-S is a really good pad, can't compare them to the CW ints. as I never used them. I have the R4-S them on the Teg R, first thing I fitted.

Missed it, OK whiteline kit includes 4 springs 4 Koni (rate) adjustable Dampers (moveable platforms for hight adjustment) front anti-rollbar 30mm 50% uprated (adjustable, 2 position) front lower rear arm bushes, and front lower front arm bushes (makes the steering more direct) (urethane) front anti-roll bar bushes (urethane) front drop links (very beefy) (urethane bushes) rear anti roll bar 20mm 30% uprated (adjustable 3 position) rear anti roll bar bushes (urethane) you use the standard rear drop links but I think you can get uprated ones seperately.

Yes they are hollow, and the whiteline ones are SOLID

I have a full set of Standard (not Bilsteins) Supra shocks/springs/anti-rollbars sitting in my garage doing nothing if you want a quick cheap repair. Rich

Ahh right, was sort of comparing it to the A'PEXi PowerFC I have fitted on the Integra. It's fully programmable via a hand held unit (FC Commander) or PC (but only at APEXi dealers as that's the only people they will sell the software to), even lets you plug in a boost controller solenoid and controls that too EVEN ON AN N/A HONDA !!!(subject to adding a turbo naturally) (Edited by HardHead42 at 11:44 pm on Oct. 8, 2001)