Rich J

Viagra?

Me? No back to FWD for a while, not planing on RWD for some time to come.

Yeah tell me about it But I still torture myself by coming here

I was putting 70 quid a week into mine and am now doing exactly the same journey in my Teg R and only putting in 40quid a week, both have similar manufacturers figures (i.e. approx 30 MPG) but the Supra seems to come with a guy with a ladle that chucks fuel out of the back everytime you boot it , and you will boot it, often. I both Cases I was/am getting about 250Mile from a tank, just the SUpra Tank is much bigger. (Edited by HardHead42 at 8:12 pm on Mar. 9, 2002)

Is it a similar setup to the zdyne ones for hondas (http://www.zdyne.com), i.e. the standard ECU has some of the chips replaced with eproms/flash programmable ones? (Edited by HardHead42 at 5:30 pm on Mar. 4, 2002)

You'll be wanting to convert it to sequential operation next I suppose http://www.takakaira.co.jp/php/template.php3?id=663&cat=2

Honda UK specify 98 ron fuel for the UK Integra Type R and UK Accord Type R ( it even says so on the fuel cap of my Integra Type R) so they are by default specifying SUL (when it used to be 98 ron anyway) because PUL is only 95 ron. And it's a 1998 car so there was no Optimax at that time. (Edited by HardHead42 at 4:27 pm on Feb. 23, 2002)

Expect low 14s (maybe high 13s at Crail) at around 100MPH with a stock Supra TT Auto. Launch will be important. WHat method are you going to use.

I have used checkerflag myself, they have good prices and keep you informed of your order/delivery. They will even make up a value for VAT/TAX purposes. I bought an HKS SuperDrager from them for my FTO and they were a pleasure to deal with (money transfer is a bit of a bugger and usually costs an 10-15 quid so if you can get a load of stuff together it works out better). Maybe Justin can get them in for a good price if they are in demand?

Too much duration means the inlet and exhaust cams will over lap on opening too much and blow all the nice air your turbo just did all that hard work to shift straight out the exhaust so there's a limit on what is worth having as far as duration on a turboed car (N/A cars can have longer durations, the JUN ones for the Integra Type R come on a 304deg duration in top spec)

I may have a quick go this weekend if the weather holds up and I haven't got anything else to do. Edit: Too cold, no motivation will look into it some other time. (Edited by HardHead42 at 7:18 pm on Jan. 18, 2002)

Anyone got the full throttle shift working on their RLTC, I've set up the wire onto pin 20 but grounding it seems to have no effect. I have set the limit low and the "invert clutch switch" in either "true" or "false" but I either get limit all the time or not at all and doesn't seem to take any notice of the ground wire. Any help welcome.

http://www.autospeed.com/A_1241/P_1/article.html ,Interesting reading

You will need bigger injectors or increased fuel pressure first as the AFC adjusts the MAP sensor pressure signal so if you increase the pressure signal (to get more fuel) you will just hit fuel cut earlier, so you have to start from a rich condition (with the bigger injectors or raised fuel pressure) and then use the AFC to lean out the rich spots. Probably best to get the WOT just right/slightly rich and then use the AFC to lean out/enrichen any spots and the non-WOT fueling

The Jap spec Supra does not have an AFM it only has a MAP sensor, so you can't "measure" the amount of air coming in you can only use manifold pressure, revs, and throttle pos. etc. and calculate how much air is coming in from that, with the hybrids in the ECU will not not calc the amount of air properly as the air "pumped" at 1bar will be more by volume with the hybrid turbos than with std turbos.

The whiteline kit raplaces the front lower, and rear lower bushes on the front suspension and imporves the steering quite a bit, the feels a little more direct, when you have a look at how much rubber there is in the original bushes it's not surprising there is mushiness especially when they have been on the car a few years. You will need to get them pressed in AFAIK as they are a vrey tight fit (for obvious reasons). Mark A may be able to give you more info as he had the full Whiteline kit put on recently.

I had mine changed as part of the Whiteline kit I had installed on mine, the guy who did it said it was the worst part of the lot to do, but it was definantely worth it in the steering feel department.

If I remember rightly in Ian's car (originally Paul Waite's), the FSE valve was used in conjunction with an APEXi AFC, the FSE raised the fuel pressure to cope with the extra airflow of the hybrid turbos and then the AFC was used to lean out the rich spots. You have to do it this way round as trying to add fuel via the AFC just brings in fuel cut quicker because it is basically fiddling the MAP pressure signal going to the ECU. (I think that's all correct)

Not exactly, N2O is does not burn by itself, if there is only NO2 and air in the chamber the spark will not ignite it, just as if it was just air. One other option is to get the add on kit that allows the RLTC to use spark cut instead of fuel cut, then you just have fun when it ignites in the exhaust :biggrin:

If I remember rightly the AEM ECU is supposed to be able to control NOS as well, if this was done by adding extra fuel through the "standard" injectors then piggy backing the RLTC would give you full shuttoff off of fuel per cylinder so you would just have air, nitrous and spark on that stroke therefore no bang (bit of nitrous wasted mind).

if you were running a wet system the NOS and addition fuel would still be injected into the cylinders, with the "normal" air being pumped into the cylinders too the mixture would go lean, if you were using a dry system that used the standard injectors to add fuel (I think it does this by increasing the fuel rail pressure by making the pressure relief valve not allow fuel back to the tank until a higher pressure) then you would just be pumping NOS down the drain. Tricky one.

Phil I think the GS300 pads are the same SIZE as the Jap Spec Supra TT, The original Toyota GS300 pads would probably not be the same material (softer/quieter?) as the J-spec Supra TT, but if you buy after market ones then they should be the same material whatever car they are for (e.g. Poerterfield R4S pads are all the same material for every car, which is why the Type R stops so quick pads are bigger than J-spec Supra ones). Dean I have some brand new TRD 9270S fast road pads (Supra 93.5~ JZA80(16inch), Soarer 91.5~ , Aristo 91.10~, Altezza 98.10~, Mark II/Chaser/Cresta 92.10~, Celsior 92.8~94.9 ) in the garage if you are interested. I can send them to you if you want to check out the size.

Got a feeling the GS300 pads are the same size as the J-spec Supra (two pot) ones. Rich

The RLTC will also do it for you if you add the clutch switch, keeps the revs at a preset level while the clutch is in (you supposed to possition the switch to work at the clutch biting point.

Graham, can you make the trace on a seperate window that can be maximised in the release version rather than on the space on the dialog box? Also can you make it so when you open a dat file that it comes up with .dat in the files of type box, and I have a strange problem that when I use it on my main PC (Win98) it opens up in the My Documents folder rather than in the application folder. Minor stuff I know. (Edited by HardHead42 at 8:45 am on Nov. 22, 2001)