sr38
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Everything posted by sr38
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until engine fully stipped down, can't be definitely confirmed though Paul @ whifbitz was pretty confident to which i trust. it's a noticeable ticking / slapping noise on cold start and goes away (mostly) when it's hot. Failed its leakdown test with; Cyl 1: 145 Cyl 2: 125 Cyl 3: 155 Cyl 4: 126 Cyl 5: 150 Cyl 6: 145 From my limited mechanical knowledge, i beleive 2 & 4 are out of tolerance and the rest are about bang on? Compression test was 150 across the board, after car was warm This was my thought of putting it on ebay / here - be honest with the issues its got and see if somebody wants it. it's an awesome beast on WOT, should someone have their own garage and some mechanical knowledge and the tools to strip it out of the car and the bits down so it can be fixed, it's not a huge bill in terms of parts / machining. Main cost comes from Tuner needing to charge hourly rate to strip, workout problem, send off, then rebuild. which is more than fair enough, as Paul / others have got to make a good living, just if a competant enthusiast had the time, effort and space it could be put back to good with relative ease. in the next month i have to move house (with no garage) and sort a bunch of personal issues - simply going to struggle to get near it until well into next year
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What would I be looking at roughly for an NA and fitting? What would we reckon resale value to be on the NA?
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Guys / Girls need some advice on the car (not technical - just generally what to do). The car failed it's leakdown test on a recent visit to WhifBitz along with piston slap. I'm in two minds what to do; try and sell her on to a keen individual (if they have the technical skill and a garage then arguably it's not as expensive a job to fix as taking it to a tuner) or fix her - the latter of which i'm just not sure, as if was to have a full rebuild i'd want to take it in a completely different direction and change the engine setup pretty much altogether (single and 6 or boostlogic and twin)- which primarily costs a lot in parts and labour. there's a few single 6's kicking about and Matsi's bootlogic on the board which arguably i could buy for less than it would cost be to rebuild this current one (the way i want it). The engine could keep going for another 1000 or 10,000 miles - who knows? Mini spec of the car is below for reference; 1995 NA-TT - Bpu'd and running 430bhp @ 1.15bar Engine; Bore, and hone engine block, Balance crankshaft, pistons, rods. C P oversize forged Pistons, ACL bearings, ARP head studs, ARP rod bolts, water pump, oil pump, gasket set, Walbro fuel pump and filter. so what do you reckon is the best next step, as i said; a talented, enthusiastic individual with a garage could sort it out, or someone who has stacked their car, but has a serious engine setup and wants to drop it straight in - admittedly i could just throw it on ebay or similar and shift it to whoever, but i'm not that kind of person Thoughts appreciated?!
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Cheers mate! Hopefully be even sweeter once Paul has worked his magic, it's not running quite as perfect as it should at the minute
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Along with another yesterday, cheers for squeezing me in!
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From the album: 1995 NA-TT Supra
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From the album: 1995 NA-TT Supra
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From the album: 1995 NA-TT Supra
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From the album: 1995 NA-TT Supra
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From the album: 1995 NA-TT Supra
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From the album: 1995 NA-TT Supra
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From the album: 1995 NA-TT Supra
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From the album: 1995 NA-TT Supra
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From the album: 1995 NA-TT Supra
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No problem Throw a 'I want a different job thread' up too. Might be a way to keep hold of her :-)
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Logie, sorry to hear you have to sell up! I recently bought this http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?310776-95-black-na-tt-bpu-auto if it helps you price yours GLWS
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Cheers for the comments guys, appreciated, will update progress :-)
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cheers guys i traced the pipes and it does look like it's connected to the PAS, i'll get it on some stands at the weekend and an able assistant to give me a hand. i've checked the PAS reservoir and it looks to have a good amount in there in the meantime, whats the implications of not fixing it immediately? just keep an eye of the reservoir / the leak and see if it gets worse? car still drive-able with loss of PAS / will it affect anything else? or is not recommended? i'll confirm the true leak at weekend and look at sourcing parts from there
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I've got some form of leak from the car, doesn't look major at the minute, but wondered what you guys thought?; Car is BOB B's old one, NA to TT conversion (BPU) Pics taken from the left front wheel arch btw as below, it's dripping down over the CV joint from above, small puddle at the minute http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=189048&stc=1&d=1406573356 bit of fluid on here, but doesn't look to be coming from it; http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=189049&stc=1&d=1406573428 i think it's coming from here? but i'm not sure what "it" is / best way to fix it? http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=189050&stc=1&d=1406573638 or is it possible the joints expanded due to the hot weather or is that wishful thinking? fluid looks more of a "red" colour, not had the car running to see if it drips more or less, but hopefully you guys can steer me in the right way for tips to fix it? cheers Mark
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i work out of Aztec West, will keep an eye out for yours. it looks good!
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Spoiler switch replacement - potentially daft question alert!
sr38 replied to sr38's topic in mkiv Technical
Kev, cheers, though i've had about 3 screwdrivers in it now, either side and one at the top - it's not giving up easily! hence wondering whether i just pull the whole panel out -
Evening I need to replace the front active spoiler switch (the one that sits to the right of the traction control switch at the bottom of the dash in front of the gear stick) is there a specific tool to get this out or do i need to remove the entire panel? I've unscrewed the top panel where the odometer etc lives which releases the panel and i can get my hand round the back but the thing just does not want to come out, no matter how much i try? Do i just need to remove the entire dash / disconnect everything else and that makes it a whole lot easier? i've refrained from doing this for a number of reasons (as i said potentially daft questions alert!); - to disconnect everything do i need to disconnect the battery and if so, do i just disconnect the negative? - if i do disconnect the battery / just the negative will the boost controller hold its settings? - anything else i should be aware of / do / not break :-) as i said potentially daft questions, still learning, but figured it's best to ask before going at it! cheers Mark
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Evening all, thought i would say hello, been on the forum for some time but only just managed to get my hands on a Supra. BOB B's old NA-TT, which is a testament to Bob's passion and commitment for this car and Supra's in general. so hopefully i can do it justice and keep it in top condition. I'm just off junction 14, M5 - Charfield, Gloucestershire You'll probably find me in the technical section asking bone questions, but it's all a learning curve and figured i should try and look after the Supe myself for the standard stuff Nice to meet you all Mark
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From the album: 1995 NA-TT Supra
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Reputable Supra Dealers or just wait to find the right one here?
sr38 replied to sr38's topic in Supra Chat
cheers for the replies and advice guys, i'll get in contact with Jurgen @ JMimports and see what appears on here too. Hopefully i'll grab something nice and share the progress of her on here
