Adam W

Araldite will melt and go runny when it gets hot, but set again when it cools. I have a splotch of it over a crack in my radiator, which gets hot enough for it to go tacky but not melt completely. That's probably one of the hottest points in the engine bay so you shoul be alright.

I would recommend Araldite, assuming it doesn't get too hot and you don't ever need to get that bolt out again. Put some on the threads, and then a big blob around the head of the bolt.

You nearly ended up with an expensive unit that altered your stereo settings as you drove! I can just picture you going sideways round a roundabout with the antenna whirring up and down as the TC tries to control your right foot

"Induction kit" describes 'pod filters' such as the HKS mushroom filter, the K&N red&silver thing and the Blitz SUS.

My mates old Triumph Spitfire needed a jack under the middle to get the hard top ON! Severely floppy car :o

Surely you're fine under axle stands - that's the whole point of using them! I thought it went "Never get under a car that is only supported by a jack (any jack)" but you put axle stands under there as a safety thing.

But surely if you have much wider grippier tyres, you can now brake at . . . 1.4G or something before the wheels start to lock and the ABS kicks in, and the bushes are out of their design range.

Is the car going to STAY front wheel drive? With 300+ bhp? You must be some kind of driver

Wow, imagine trying to drive a Supra on indian B-roads . . . . imagine how much attention it must get! Fabulous!

Thanks Stu. What is "Front Castor" and "Thrust Angle"? What/where are the adjusters for these? Is thrust angle front and rear? So many questions

I am going to toyota for a wheel alignment . . . I'm being charged £60 +VAT for two hours, which they say is how long it will take to inspect, plus adjustment time - I am unclear if there will be an extra charge for this. What should they be checking/adjusting?

Erm.. cheers Adam Well, if what you say is true then would sticking 550cc injectors on a Jap spec car without doing anything else not be a bit cludgy? What would happen if I reduced the voltage from the air flow sensor by 20% then? Sorry about all the questions, I've got my 'just have to know' head on today. Car eh? Bloody mystery to me! Cheers Graham Reducing the airflow sensor voltage would be counterproductive - what you need to do is increase the flow by 20% (ie the max flow), and maintain the same voltage. I think. So for a 1V output, instead of flowing 1cfm of air, you want 1.2cfm of air through the new AFM. I think

What makes the Mk3 trick work is that the replacement lexus AFM is exactly the same shape and type as the original Supra one, just physically larger, and the voltage/airflow scale is the same - it even has the same multiplug connection. Unless the VPC has the same flow/voltage characteristics (ie a set percentage more airflow for any given output voltage) as your stock AFM you will be back in the realm of the fuel computer. I have no idea if this will be the case. For anyone more interested in what I'm talking about, look up the "Lexus-Riemer Upgrade" on the net for this (IMO) very elegant solution to a common problem.

I think the engine will compensate when running in "closed loop" mode, (idling), using the O2 sensor as you describe. You will be running 20% richer than normal when driving properly though. For the Mk3, there is a nifty engine mod which involves using this very property of upgraded injectors - use larger injectors in conjuction with an equally larger air flow sensor thingy. You get 20% more air going through the engine than the ECU thinks (because you now have a larger air flow sensor but the same output voltage from it), but this is cancelled out by the 20% extra fuel at the same pulsewidth for the larger injectors, so you get the same mixture, but 20% more of it! That won't work for you though, because there isn't a handy Lexus air flow sensor you can bolt straight on in place of your stock one! Pretty useless post for you lot really!

This whole thread is pretty damn funny, BUT it's meant to be a technical discussion of brakes, not a slanging match with all parties implying that the others are lying. Why not just relaaaaaaaax until we have scans of the various documents and take it from there? Sheesh, you guys are so unhip it's a wonder your legs don't fall off. Where did I leave my towel?

Well, what Mycroft is saying makes sense to me! If the customer has work done, he expects it to be perfect (or as near as dammit), hence the low fitting tolerance. Having a set tolerance for "These brake discs may give you problems now or in the future" and "these brakes discs are now dangerous" also seems like a good idea.

Where's the neon? Under the bonnet shining on the engine? Or what?

One of those little stuffed spanish ones with a colourful sombrero? BYE

From branners previous post about front/rear brake bias, if the rear is coming round while you're on the brakes it's more likely due to weight transfer to the front than brake bias. If you put more brakes at the rear, then the rear tyres will still get just as light, but they'll be closer to locking up and you'll get MORE oversteer, not less! I'm not a chassis engineer or anything, that just makes sense to me! Tell me if I'm wrong

Surely if you stick a new head on an existing block and gain capacity (quoting Mycroft above) then that *must* decrease the compression ratio, as you have increased volume. Does that make sense?

Whats the problem with Motec? I thought they were really good, I know Chris Wilson likes them.

Theres nothing shameful about that! You wouldn't want a fast car that sounds like a sewing machine, would you? I know what you mean about turbo sound effects, I love it! BrrrrmmmmmmwhooossssshhhhhhpsshhhCHHHHEWWWW etc etc

I reckon yur best approach is to say "All the aftermarket filters are equalk in terms of power, which one looks the best?" For my money it's the blitz SUS . . .

I've seen it on a few MkIV's, in magazines and at shows. I think HKS do a cam cover with a cut-out in it precisely for that reason, and who can blame them with such sexy anodised vernier cam gears! If you're worried about it, cut a window out and then glue in a piece of clear perspex, but I don't think it should be an issue. AFAIK it's just there to protect the cambelt from knocks and scrapes, and stop it getting soaked in oil or anything.

Chris - I think you need to build a perspex gearbox casing, and run it on clear silicone oil so evryone can se how gorgeous those mechanicals are! Failing that, some kind of glass inspection window in the transmission tunnel so you can admire them from the drivers seat