Adam W

I've got some fluid dynamics textbooks at home, I'll have a look this evening.

Yep, bleed the longest lines first, n/s/r; o/s/r; n/s/r; o/s/r

You've changed so much stuff at one time it could be really hard to figure out what is causing the problem until you get it all properly mapped.

Check for leaky IC pipes.

I think that starting from a road car platform, you'd need a pretty monstrous wing on the back before you seriously unbalanced the downforce f/r. I reead about the aero work on the Maclaren F1 (the road car) and Gordon Murray did lots of work to ensure that the centre of pressure (COP) didn't change when the car ptiched up/down under braking and acceleration. How important is that?

Hey l2l, I think you should change that text above your avatar . . . It's wrong

You say the car is decatted but you have no fuel cut defender fitted? You'll be bouncing off fuel cut every time you floor it!!

I have this as well - when my boost gauge (which I trust and which has been independantly verified) hits 1.1bar the Blitz DSBC is showing about 1.5 or something! I had put it down to the fact that they took their pressure readings from different hoses in the engine bay (gauge off the FPR feed, DSBC from some misc. hose somewhere), but never got round to swapping them over. I can't think how you're meant to calibrate the boost controller though? Surely it has a pressure sensor in it, exactly the same as the boost gauge, but a digital readout instead of a needle? Nothing in the instructions about calibrating it, no tempting grub screws to fiddle with . . .

They sound like a gerbil being squashed by a truck! Sort of "squibble" noise. If you can stand that, they're meant to be very good and hold as much boost as you're likely to make on a road car.

SAFC and big injectors at the moment, currently trying to decide between an E-manage and spending three times as much on an AEM ECU. It was ditching the backbox that made it sound mean though.

I get pops, gurgles, crackles and bangs (and very occasional flames) because I run without cats or silencers, and I think I'm a bit rich in the midrange.

AFAIK over-run is just a term given to what the engine does as you lift off and brake into a corner. You achieve it by removing your rigth foot from the right-most pedal Not sure exactly what you mean here?

Yep, the fact that they need a spacer at all shows they are not fit for purpose. Stick to your guns and don't let em weasel out of it or do any more work.

I would strongly advise against letting them bugger about trying to make them fit. The odds are slim-to-none that they will come up with anything acceptable, and I'm pretty sure that it will weaken your case against them. Certainly that's the case if you buy a brand new car and you want to send it back due to flaky paintwork or wobbly wheels or whatever - any rectification work by the dealer severely reduces your chances of getting a refund or new car.

I think this is what they mean when they talk about your "Statutory Rights" as a purchaser. Which may mean that even if they said to you at the time of purchase "it's a custom job so if it doesn't fit we can't give you a refund" that they are still bound by the law to do so.

If you specifically said to them "These wheels must fit on a Supra with UK brakes" then they are not fit for purpose, and you can get a refund. There might be a bit of a grey area about whether they can be said to fit, even though they don't look right to you, but if you reckon it would fail an MOT then that clears that up! The fact they are custom made is irrelevant, they were custom made to the wrong specs!

Turbo lag? Mine feels pretty dead until 2800rpm, then at 3k it's like someone's flicked that's given you 100bhp extra Probably exacerbated by your sludgy numptybox

Some people use the TD series on Mk3 Supras. Reasonable results but you're better off going with a T04 for bhp/£££ from what I've read.

You'll need to run more than that mate, if you want to keep up in the Mk3 b00st warz

So what do you have to do to an F1 engine to make it reliable enough for 6/12/24-hour GT racing? Just reduce the rev limit or is it more involved than that? It'll look nicer once it's been painted . . .

The sequential setup confises em. You'd do better going for a standard-type one.

That's the one. No idea about the technical stuff you mention, doesn't sound critical to me though as you say. I'm more worried about absolute accuracy (including over the long term), reliability, and self-correction as the sensor degrades over time.

That looks pretty good. Another one to check out is the FJO wideband setup which has got a consistently good rep and has been recommended to me by a couple of people who I respect. The FJO is about $700 I think . . . does anyone know how the two compare?

I don't believe you for a second Justin, but sincerely hope to be proved wrong

I accept what you all say; I guess my point is that one can come up with a workable, useable 5-600bhp engine for far less money than the cost of doing it "properly". For sure, if you spend the extra money you will get a better end result, but I reckon even a "budget" effort would be pretty wild