mk1its

Ouch, do you have a pic of one? Do they give a nice heavy throw?

I'm in the market for a new shifter now my W58 box is in and fitted. I've seen this one on ebay but wondered whether what you guys preferred and whether there any special 'knobs' out there and are they a straight fit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Speed-Manual-Gear-Shifter-Universal-JDM-Aluminum-Black-Shift-Knob-Racing-6cm-/290836526125?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ASupra&hash=item43b735342d

My car is finally ready for collection after 4 months of work so it's time to insure it. Footman James halved the price of Sky Insurance at £342 for the year with a 250 excess. You don't accrue NCB but who cares at that amount..?

OK thanks, is there a difference between a 5speed and 6speed ECU? Will a 5speed work in a 6speed and vice versa?

Well 15yrs is a pretty good testing term. Are you running standard power?

Yeah I do have a trade card so might be worth a shot......I rarely use it so forgot about it tbh....thanks!

Ah indeed, that's reminded me about some EBC front discs I had on a 480bhp 300zx. They cracked through the heat but to be fair, the standard brake setup was no-where near fit for the power I was pushing.....but still....they cracked.... Do 'Halfrauds' sell them? Keron mentioned he had some new OE for £150.....

I was under the impression that the rear brakes did less than 40% so didn't think they were as important.....40% is a lot so they def need to be FFP(Fit For Purpose).....

Thanks DNK, good to know and that's put my mind at rest.......OE it is....

Well according to the brake tech writeup in the faq section, the larger rear rotors are 324mm diameter and 16mm thickness. These discs are 21mm so I presume they'll be ok?? Just trying to see what others have tried....

Guys Bearing in mind that the rear brakes supplement the front brakes, are these brake discs adequate for my UK spec rear calipers: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUPRA-MK4-TURBO-REAR-DRILLED-GROOVED-BRAKE-DISCS-/230589679822?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ASupra&hash=item35b03748ce I'm not trying to cut corners, I just don't see the point of spending more if I don't need to. If only standard brakes are the way to go then I'll purchase them. All advice appreciated...... Cheers Mark.

Thanks for the info, appreciated...

Hmm OK, well it is short term. With all the tunnel work etc it shouldn't be too hard to move to another box. The R154 is from a MKIII isn't it? Whats the 6sp box from a MKIV called? Getrag?

What do you mean Josh?

Guys Will this work in a 5sp? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUPRA-JZA80-MK4-2JZGTE-6-SPEED-SHORT-SHIFTER-QUICK-SHIFT-1992-2002-/230860110111?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ASupra&hash=item35c055b91f

Is this what we need??? http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/parts-upgrade/vehicle-speed-sensor-mci - - - Updated - - - Strange this wasnt mentioned in any guides??

Guys Is post number 5 legitimate? http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?642202-98-supra-w58-swap-question

Hi guys We've hit a snag whilst converting the TT Auto to Manual using a W58 gearbox purchased from Aspire earlier this year. It seems the speedo on the Auto box was electronic whereas the speedo on the W58 is mechanical ie. wire? Is this right???? If so, what do we need to do to make the mechanical speedo work?

I don't think I'd get anything in there without risking snapping the other stud to be honest.....I can't even budge the 3rd bolt....I'll try with a knuckle joint tonight and see if that helps..... It's definatey going to need drilling out....what a bitch....

I'm also on my back, bloody awkward as hell! Maybe its worth running the engine for a while although I guess this will just heat the studs also, causing them to expand....

I'm guessing removing the CAT and then see if I can drill it out, sounds the most logical. If not, it's all got to be removed.... I'll try tonight with the knuckle joint to see if this gives me any extra room... - - - Updated - - - I think that's definitely wise....studs are great, but shit when they snap!! In their defense, they've probably been in there 20 years lol...

Guys Tried to do the decat yesterday and the downpipe bolts are bloody awkward to get to without a ramp, and I'm sure even with! I used a knuckle joint which must have put too much sideways pressure on the bolts?? Anyway, the first nut came off OK ish however as you can see from the pic, the threads were pretty much trashed: The second nut snapped and you can see here that the bolt is twisted in the nut: Then when trying to remove the third bolt pictured here, I cannot get enough force onto the bolt to even budge it: So all in all, a bloody disaster really. I'm guessing I've now got to remove the entire turbo/manifold setup so if anyone has a guide for this, a link would be great. I'll also presume that I need to purchase new nuts and bolts for the downpipe to decat? Is it common for these to be so bloody awkward! Any help appreciated guys; cars stuck on the driveway on ramps right now....

Cool thanks, and I presume this is between the downpipe and decat?

Thanks for the info..... I have 2 restrictor rings that came with an exhaust that I bought from a forum member, do I fit one between the downpipe and decat, and decat and centre section?

Oh and this was typed on my phone so apologies for the poor punctuation/grammar.....