ALG JOT

They were bent i have all the parts i box if the seller wishes to see them he is also very welcome to speak to the machine shop to which i can provide phone number address and website to. YES! this is exactly what i said i have done i haven't fitted it to my car yet i am only after getting it rebuilt after it was inspected etc and told it needed work.

This is exactly why i had taken it to my local machine shop. I wanted it cleaned and checked thats when i found out all the issues it had and with no other decent head available i bit the bullet and had it fully rebuilt. Yes thats what i am hoping but i wanted to know if i wasn't being to hasty and if i am in the right to ask at least some money back.

Well just after getting back from picking it up now the total came to £570! It was cleaned and stripped Pressure tested - passed 4 valves refaced 4 valve seats recut lap in/ vacuum test valves x24 - passed skimmed .012 re-shimmed tappet shim (exchange) valve stem seals changed re-assembled This is a well known and established machine shop that a lot of the main dealers/garages use and i have no doubts in his work if he says it needs doing then it gets done. Yes i contacted the seller before i went ahead with it and told him my plans.(Now responding)

I bought a cylinder head off a fellow member who i won't name. It was intended to go onto my spare engine to sell on. I asked if it was all sound and was ready to bolt on etc. He confirmed and so i went to pick it up. I had a few other issues but i won't go into detail about that to much. Anyway ended up having to use it on my own car so decided to get it cleaned and checked professionally. The specialist got back to me and told me the head wasn't as sound as i was made out to be. It needed two valves changing and other bits and pieces needed to make it at least half decent. I was desperate to get my car back on road so put a request out to see if anyone had any decent heads. Since i had no good leads i gave the go ahead to the engineer to carry out the work. Minimum work needed to carry out was quoted at 360ish. Or full works to make like new would have been 560 +plus parts. Now here is where i would like your opinion. Is it right for me to ask at least a partial refund from the seller? He did offer me the other head he had which he even said wasn't as good as this one in his opinion. But then if i went ahead with that i would of had to payed to pick that up then payed to get it cleaned an checked all over again hence why i went the route i did. I think i am now being ignored by said seller so thought i would see what you guys think before i went any further.

Heres the said video...

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm287/akcustomz89/27F6AD4A-1D82-4790-A75D-873BDB1B2016-1314-00000241F3EBF0AA.mp4 Finally got my supra started(as per previous threads) but now i have a top end knock!? The bottom end is fine came from a working car from a fellow member. My head that i bolted to it was checked over and given the all clear. I was just after checking the clearences on the valves and all of them fall within tolerences. Could anything else cause this? I saw a video on youtube with a supra having the exact same noise and he later found out the alternator was interfering with the loom and caused issues with the camshafts sensors?

Hahaha no worries thanks for all the help though mate always nice when you can get others thoughts on the cause than beating yourself up trying to think too much into it yourself. One thing i would like to ask everyone else thathelped though(ones with a working supra lol) any chance someone can show mepics of where all the grounds should be bolted to? The main ones i want to know are under the inlet manifold. I know there should be one off the firewall to the rear engine hook. One off the fuel filter to gearbox and then the rest under the inlet but where exactly? Thanks

As i said many times already the timing is spot on all markings were perfect compression was good. And now its running!!! turned out the crank sensor wheel that sits behind the bottom pulley was different to my old engine. Swapped them round and it fired right up. That would be why i was getting spark and fuel but just not at the right times haha. Didn't let it run for long as it was getting late and was a bit rough so will continue tomorrow on it

Ahhhhh yes its all coming back to me now all them years ago of learning it! hahahaha! Ok so i will try this tomorrow and see how it goes. Unless so wants to have a word? lol

Thank you all by the way for trying to help its always good to get another opinion from people in the know other than nosey neighbors and smart arse kids hahaha.

Yes so surely then the crank would be in exactly the same place as it was when the belt was still attached because of the 360degree rotation? The crank only needs to turn 180degrees for the cams to rotate once correct? I hope this is making sense or am i sounding thick again? haha This is exactly what i have done. And im pretty sure TDC 'compression' is just the same as 'exhaust' the block knows no difference it only knows up and down right? lol I have taken the cambelt covers on and off now a number of times to check and double check my markings line up. I have even used the long stick down cylinder 1 technique to see if maybe the oil pump gear was off alignment but it was fine. I am just after coming back in from so more poking around on it and found wire missing from the fuel filter. I remember taken it off but cant find it now. Would that really cause any issue though? I am also thinking about the fuel damper bypass mod as its on the list to do anyway and may have been one of the causes to lean out? Another thing i forgot to mention is the car is running a hks fcon pro. Could the time its been disconnected cause any issues with the map etc? I doubt it but worth putting out there...

So how would you suggest fixing this problem? Surely turning the crankshaft 360 degrees again while keep the cams lined up(cambelt removed) would still be just the same position as before right? Or am i being dopey as usual and missing something obvious? haha

Anyone else? Can a faulty fuel damper prevent a car from starting?

Yup when i bolted the head on, piston one and six were up top.

its got my original head which was checked and refitted onto a working shortblock. Im giving up again today i have tried everything i can think of! Any chance someone local that can give a hand? I will pay for your time of course and supply tea lol

So if i leave the camshafts where they are and turn the crankshaft a full 360 would that be right?

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm287/akcustomz89/595C060A-680B-415A-A42C-E953F3DD588F-558-000000CC4A64A2FB.mp4 This is what my engine sounds like when trying to start with fuel on. If i pull the fuse and run it without fuel it turns over well with no stops. I have fuel as i flooded the plugs and dried them out. I have spark as previous thread. My timing is spot on as i have triple checked it even looking and the marking on the crankshaft gear. Im scratching my head can't think at all whats wrong. I have even checked the resistance in every vital sensor and all is within spec. Help please before i crack! lol

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm287/akcustomz89/595C060A-680B-415A-A42C-E953F3DD588F-558-000000CC4A64A2FB.mp4

yeah compression is all good i know its a cold engine and i didn't spray any oil but they all averaged 150ish. I am about to upload a video of what it sounds like when i try start...

all sorted 2 packs weren't getting a decent ground and one pig tail connector was faulty now that that is sorted when i go to start im getting a pop now and again but a slow crank leading up to it. That is with a fresh battery and jump leads from another car. Is it possible to have the cams on a non vvti 2jzgte engine the wrong way round? I.e inlet cam on exhaust side and exhaust cam on inlet side? I have... *Fuel *Spark *Timing is spot on So thats the only other thing i can think of :/ - - - Updated - - - all sorted 2 packs weren't getting a decent ground and one pig tail connector was faulty now that that is sorted when i go to start im getting a pop now and again but a slow crank leading up to it. That is with a fresh battery and jump leads from another car. Is it possible to have the cams on a non vvti 2jzgte engine the wrong way round? I.e inlet cam on exhaust side and exhaust cam on inlet side? I have... *Fuel *Spark *Timing is spot on So thats the only other thing i can think of :/

I was just after changing out my shortblock andcar will not start so doing the basic checks and found only one plug is firing. Whether i switch the coilpacks round or sparkplugs its only the same one that fires(#3). Anyone know what i should look for next to solve this?

Im using my phone at the moment but im failing to see how this link would help? This is to the exhaust side. Where as the hoses i need help with are on the inlet side.

First pic is of the ICV i have one hose connected that ran of the water pump metal pipe feed. But i have no idea where the one beside it should go? http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm287/akcustomz89/2CDE7173-BF3F-41AF-A821-20717987B57C-22105-00002658A270BF9A.jpg Here is the pic of the pipes below the T/B. There is actually 3pipes that i am unsure of where they go. Also thre is a pipe you can see just to the back of the cambelt cover on the head. http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm287/akcustomz89/A8D684EB-EA86-49B0-B3AD-52EA8343DC6B-22105-000026589C464436.jpg Can somewhere tell me what goes where or even supply pics? Thanks Alan

Im putting back the engine on my 2jzgte and im am stuck on where what hoses go where on the idle control valve and the two directley under the throttle body. Also the one just to the left of that on the head itself. They all look like water hoses to me. Only thing is my hoses are half modified so i dont know what goes where. Will unload pics in a minute...

Yeah i kind of knew it was a oil pressure switch but was hoping for a part number or someone that may have one lol.