JSeaman

Thermal shock etc for products that are 'aways on' has, as far as I can see, no relevance here?? In all likelihood you won't have a dry atmosphere, you will reach dew point and you will see condensation. It happens in almost every vehicle stored for a long time without use Two sorts of corrosion are simple oxidation of metals and fungal growth (you've seen green steering wheels in vehicles that are left for 6 months etc). Carbon buildup etc isn't what you are worried about on a fan switch etc I assumed the deformation was the cause but just checking, that being the case I agree over inflating probably won't do much to stop it but up to you on this one

How do you figure turning it on and off causes problems? Any corossion on contacts and motors, connectors etc suffer from lack of use - this is the same on electrical systems in and out of the automotive environment. Not sure what you mean by flat spots for the tyres and why over inflation helps, could you clarify for me?

The NA had the W58 and the Turbo (7MGTE) had the R154. The auto for both 7M and 1JZ had A340 variants but the 1JZ also had an R154 when in manual form but they are rare If you want more info I did a summary of model information on the mk3 here: http://mkiiisupra.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=19641

I'd change the oil when you're putting it back on the road (and the coolant) myself Why the over inflation of tyres? Agree with the hand brake Would be worth getting an optimate or similar for the battery or removing it completely If you can periodically move it then it'll help, even better if you can get it to temperature. Switch gear and electrical stuff tends to die so if you are able to regularly fire it up then put the fans, lights etc on to keep stuff doing what it should Generally though it'll be fine If you leave it for a very long time then turn it over a few times with the fuel pump (or plugs / whatever you like) removed so it doesn't fire up pumps a little oil around

It's been a long while since I touched Access but I know VB pretty well, dim VariableName as string will indeed allocate memory for a string of text (assuming that is what you are reading from the form), then you will need to reference a component on the form to extract the value. For example if you have a textbox on the form called text1 you could do VariableName = text1.text This assigns the textbox called text1's 'text' property which is (as you would expect) the text within it Similarly you could have: dim Length OfText as integer LengthOfText=Text1.length This puts the size of the text in a variable which is an integer

Could do - any idea what else is done to the car? Decat, exhaust and turbo elbow with a wastegate shim might meet their needs Don't suppose it is a member of mkiiisupra.net is it? If so, might know them

Scratch that, he's going for a new one now so this can all settle down

Really?! I'm amazed at that, a vast number of members on there don't have mk3s and there is no stigma attached to this - we get loads of members who are thinking about buying a car so join up. I've asked the guy who needs this (well, the person who was asking on the mk3 forum on behalf of the mk4 owner!) to give me an email address so you can deal direct and avoid this issue of paying to ask for parts

Don't get me wrong I understand that forums need support from members and if you're a regular, especially those needing a lot of help, contributing is a good idea. I've certainly done it in the past. I joined here because I got a 1JZ powered mk3 and know there is some overlap with the 2JZ, as a bonus I get to throw in a few answer to questions about mk3 supras while I'm on here and pick up a few parts. I don't think I've asked a single question on here but answered a few for others, not sure I really need to pay as well to be involved?

Fuel cut varies on the mk3, people have had it as low as 9psi and over 14 psi. The generally accepted limit is about 14 psi normally. A FCD can help with this but you run the danger of fuel cut not kicking in when you actually do need it. Shimming the wastegate is a common mod that can easily knock you off the top of the stock gauge so ~10 psi+ With lexus+550s you can go way past that to high teens or low 20s but that's down to other factors such as afr setup as well Has it got a standard exhaust with cats? Losing them will gain you a few PSI, obviously make clear to the owner the more they boost the more likely they are to need a head gasket! Oh and 14.5 psi = 1 bar

In the nicest possible way, it's trying to force payment. I'm only asking this as a favour because I'm registered on here. Forum/owners club, I like to think I normally give a heck of a lot more than I receive I'm not wanting to tread on toes by stepping outside the boundaries of forum rules but I imagine that in the circumstances I'm not really asking a lot? I may be wrong (that's not meant sarcastically)

I know that's only a playful comment but : 1. If I paid to be a member of every forum I was on it would literally cost me hundreds of pounds 2. I post up guides on most forums which are purely there to save people money (lots of it), it takes me hundreds of hours 3. The best thing about forums is that they are free! 4. Don't forget this is doing me no favours, I don't even know the guy! You're just helping out another mk4 owner Sorry if that sounds over defensive but I'm not a fan of 'bullying' into payment

Thanks mate, just waiting to hear back - willl let you know

Can't post in the wanted section but if anyone has a rad kicking around can you please let me know, not for me but a guy off the mk3 forum : http://www.mkiiisupra.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=30549 James

That'll do it! Glad you're back on the road

You're too kind Jay What pictures do you want, I'm sure I've got pretty much everything somewhere - the guides have most stuff you'll need, see the buyer's guide too - that tells you all I could think of about buying them It's a great car for the money but be prepared for a bit of DIY mechanics from time to time. Great as a second car and you'll struggle to find something to match it in the price range

If you check out my 'guides' section in 'archive' off mkiiisupra.net I've given details of the various models but the most common are indeed the 7MGE and 7MGTE with a fair few 1GGTE and 1JZGTE kicking around too I've got my fifth mk3 at the mo which is a 1JZ,4 previous were 7MGTEs. Great cars boats loads of torque, cheap as chips but too heavy to be a 'sports car'. Great GT though and all the luxuries you'd need like leather,cruise control,A/C etc 232bhp and 254 ft/lb by the way

Scotty, just pop up what dates you are free in Apr/May (Saturdays) and I'll add them to the list on the mk3 forum

Yeah it's actually a small LPG place but they have the dyno for setting the cars up and it's open or public use. I figured there would be hoards of guys on here looking to try it out ... we'll see

If any of you guys would like to tag along, we're arranging a rolling road meet for the mk3 Supras - would be nice to have some mk4s there too. Details are here: http://www.mkiiisupra.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=30126 Basically £25 (+VAT tbc) for a power run with bhp/torque/afr/boost, if you're interested let me know

Yaris' are pretty good in the snow, thin tyres and you can't go fast enough to have momentum should you slide It's been snowing on and off all day here so things are a little slippier but roads are still doing OK

Sounds like typical alternator problems - you get all sort of warning lights popping on etc. I don't suppose you measure the terminal voltage of the battery did you? It's possible that it got damaged with an over discharge. It's worth checking it and also with the car running to make sure your alternator is charging at a sensible voltage

I'm about fifteen minutes away - snow on the ground but generally not too bad. All the main roads are clear and go slow on the back roads + watch out for ice and you'll be fine Saying that, the forecast is more snow for Sunday I think so check again on Monday!

Unless you connect the engine to the dynanometer they are only measuring horsepower at the wheel, they then use a correction factor where they add x% for drivetrain losses so it's never as accurate as the figure they actually measure

Sorry, yes, thinking about other things Definitely worth whacking them all out and checking the status of the wires, if that makes no difference then start fault finding before you wire it back in. Good luck with the fault finding