Odin

Good call I'll check when I get home,the engine did get really hot maybe I fried an electrical circuit?

Should I think about getting a new fcd or do you think it could be something else?

As some of you may know i have been doing an n/a-tt transplant for the last 3-4 weeks and have been experiencing some difficulties,to cut a long story short i rewired the lambda sensor today and swapped over the 2 identical black wires(this was on the exhaust part where there are 2xblack/1xwhite/1xblue) and connected them properly to the mating half of the stock lambda sensor (the part which runs into the loom) and hey presto it worked!!i reset the ecu and checked for diagnostic codes and there werent any - Winner!... Obviously i decided to take it for a nice drive to make sure everything was ok,i started on country lanes and progressed onto the M6 and everything seemed great she was running really well the turbo's were boosting perfectly - if anything the 2nd turbo was kicking in a little late at 4500revs but all in all a very impressive drive,its set to 1 bar and didnt exceed that and the oil temp never went above 100 degrees,.... However after about an hour or so there was a kind of missfire - almost like a fuel cut or something to that effect,at first it was happening when the 2nd turbo should be kicking in but now its happening just driving it normally even down my road at a slow speed. - The main symptom is all of a sudden i will lose power on the throttle pedal for 1 approx 1 second and then it will quickly kick back in as if it had never lost power which means a massive jerk/surge in acceleration, so once again im having what i hope will be my final teething problem with this project for a while and was wondering if anyone had experienced anything similar? ps i checked all the turbo pipes and they are all still on and there are still no diagnostic codes showing Many thanks as Always James (just to give a special thanks to all that have helped me this far including RyanG,Chris Wilson,KenBlockSeal and many others - Thanks a lot guys much appreciated)

Hi bud i know you said 96 onwards so i guess your not interested in a 95? thanks James

Sent you those Emails Chris - Cheers

Sending Emails now chris

Ok I'll do that tomorrow when I have good light,thanks Chris

Sorry if I wasn't clear buddy,what I meant was I'll sell it for £25 but u would also have to cover the cost of p+p,I can get a quote when I weigh it,sorry for the confusion. Kind regards

Hi guys Yes the buyer pulled out of the leads so i have them they are approx 8k miles old (approx 1 year) drop me a pm if you are still interested Missile. Hi ripped_fear, I would be willing to sell it for 25 if you handle the p+p drop me a pm if your still interested buddy. I wont be in the garage to pick them up again until Tuesday/Wednesday though as work is quite heavy at the start of the week. Will part with the n/a engine for 100 if someone would collect it from my friends garage Many thanks James

Thanks Chris it is starting its just not running at all well - juddering,hunting at idle,cutting out possibly overfueling as it reeks of petrol when this happens and black soot from the exhaust,diagnostic code 21 and 31,I would love to bring it to you however getting it there may be a problem,if its something i can fix on my drive then i shall try to do that if not i will figure out a way to get it down to you and im really grateful for that offer, thanks again, james

Anyone any ideas what to try now?also can anyone tell me the colours of the 4 wires in a stock lambda sensor please? As always many thanks guys

Hi guys i managed to get a reading from the diagnostics and im getting error code 21 which is the main oxygen sensor signal and error code 31 which is the Airflow meter circuit. Im not really sure where to go from here but im thinking the lambda sensor may be wired incorrectly for the error code 21 but i was wondering whether this sensor not being connected would be the reason for the error code 31 If this would cause a potential problem then i know ill tap a hole into the air intake on the induction kit and plug it there with a rubber gromit.

I will if it doesn't sell as a full unit - ill keep you posted mate

Thanks for the info Ryan,just tried that with a paperclip bridging TE1-E1 and im not getting any ecu/engine lights at all no blinks - ignition is in position 2,the only light that comes on in that panel is ABS (all the other lights are fine battery etc) seems like it doesnt want to be fixed hehe

Prices lowered again need to get this stuff out of the garage

Just to add it's now hunting at idle (I know this could be due to not having the viscous fan fitted) but its doing it when the engine is cold as well as hot,in addition to this when I take my foot off the acceleration pedal a lot of the time it's cutting out completely (all of this is at a speed of approximately 10mph) and when it does move I'm still getting the judders,it's very poorly,could this be a problem with the lambda sensor?

Anyone got any ideas? Desperate to get my car running normally now.. with the normal unleaded thats already in my tank would I be able to put a high octane booster (over 5rom) and run it til completely empty then refill with v power or is it best just to drain it out?

No unfortunately there isn't one I just have boost and oil temp gauges..

Hi guys hope you are all well?I have finally finished the n/a-tt (thanks Ryan for helping with the wiring) the only thing missing now is the viscous fan which is on route,when we got the car running and after a few tweaks everything seemed fine it boosts well at 1bar and felt great,I decided to take it home from the garage as I wanted to do some more work on it in the evenings,my home is approximately 10mins from the garage and the traffic was good except for a red traffic light,as the car warmed up it started to judder as if I was tapping my foot on the accelerator pedal I was driving at around 40mph and never more than 3k revs,I still have normal unleaded in the fuel tank from when it was n/a which I'm going to drain and refill with a higher octane fuel,so aside from doing this and fitting the viscous fan is there anything else worth trying to combat this shudder? Thanks guys

I picked it up from Blackburn motorworld a few years ago and it didnt come with any history at all i pretty much know is how many owners it has had and what year it was imported so not really,this is something you wouldnt expect to be 'missing' hence why i didnt take the pans off but as always - expect the unexpected

Ha yeah a catastrophe the firewall would have been like butter as the engine came through the car! One thing i wont neglect to check ever again

Still need one of these please guys

cheers jim ill send him a pm

mate i had the same problem recently - to check if it is the relay etc take out the efi 1 and bridge it with a paperclip to see if the car starts?also see if u have 12v to the coilpacks and pin 1a in the loom(black and orange wire) I was also told this problem could be fixed by splicing pin 24a(grey wire) into pin1a(black and orange) but this unfortunately didnt work for me - thats basically where i got to before i had to call Ryan at 2bar tuning to help me out so if i find out anything ill let you know

Another of lifes little mysteries solved - thanks Dude if anyone has one or knows someone with one up for grabs let me know i already have an ad in the wanted section - Thanks for all your help guys James