Barnstormer

antenna lead from gps reciever mounted by the RHS windscreen going behind dash

The radar detector unit on the front grill.

There was a thread a little while ago about fitting radar detectors so I though I'd show how I'd done mine. Will post piccies below ATB PS if anyone wants more info or piccies let me know

Paul E Any chance of a couple of pictures of your install? Would like to see how its done before I fit mine. ATB

Got mine the other day as a Christmnas prezzie. Looks good a good bit of kit but have to spend some time deciding how to mounts all the bits. ATB

I too want to get RLTC fitted in the new year and I recognise some of the names/places mentioned in an earlier post but who is Leon? As I live in W Sussex I wanted someone not too far away to fit it as my skills are limited. I could approach a local auto electrician but again not sure if this is a good idea. Any advice appreciated. ATB Barnstomer j-spec 97 auto TT

They seem to be genuine 16" silver alloys though the spare is 17". I will attempt to get the part nos for the Toyota window rain guards - well I'll get the missus to email a dealer in Yokohama. I will take a few days but once I get any info I will post it on the board. Also I looked at whifbitz web site and they seem to do some mean brake conversion kits. Mammoth disks and calipers but will have to wait until I get some 19". ATB

the whole lot

close up

the disk

Right, had the wheel off and measured the disk. The disk diameter is 295mm, wheels are 16x8", spare is 17". Simple solution in the end. I will try and post pictures below if I can find out how. Once again thanks for all the advice.... ATB

yep you can get 'em. Depends on whether you want original Toyota ones of aftermarket ones. I just happen to see a catalogue with loads of different types for every type of vehicle. They are especially popular on 4x4's apparently...my Japanese anin't so good these days but that what I think thats what he said. When I go again I will try and get some more info but you could check out their website at http://www.autobacs.com You will need a translation engine to get the jist of it - try babelfish. My missus is Japanese so she can do it for me! Toyota ones are harder to get hold of but I can get the missus to email some dealers near my in-laws and see if they can get 'em. Shouldn't be too expensive to ship them over. ATB

Everybody.. Thanks for all the info. Definatley gonna take the front wheel off tomorrow and have a look to see what I got. Also the spare although I'm pretty sure its 16 too. Never checked the rear side lights! Will have a look. The Mongoose sounds really good - literally. I often go to work early in the morning and could without waking half the street at 4am. Also the one piece downpipe to replace the cats seems a good idea. As I often go to Japan I looked at their equivalent of Halfords. Its call Auto Bacs and they sell every type of alloy wheel and tuning part known to the Japanese. Over there a full Blitz NurSpec R is about 70,000 Yen = £380 but a bummer to get in the suitcase. Also alloys are about half the price in the UK for the same ones. Again same problem of getting them in a suitcase. Was thinking about bringing one at a time over....... Will report on what I find on the hub. ATB Also Supra bits are easily obtainable and cheap. Bulbs, wiper blades, filters etc. Also the rain guards that fit along the upper door sill to stop rain pissing on you as you open it.

what size are big brakes? 325mm? Will have to take a wheel off now and measure them. Could be that the car had 17's on then were swopped for 16's for some unlikely reason. Can't imagine Toyota having two different brake setups for the production line - very costly. Never heard of any other cars having an option of bigger brakes just coz the wheels are bigger. Anyway, will have to measure them tomorrow to know for sure. It's never easy is it.......... ATB

gazwalker - thanks for the info. Re: the brakes. I have a totally stock car and the wheels are 16" originals. Thinking about getting some 18 or 19's and /or a new exhaust plus decat. I suppose the simple way is to pull off a wheel and measure the the disks - will get around to it sometime. I thought the answer might be simple to my Q. The brakes don't seem to have the bite that most modern cars have, however, I put that down down less servo assistance which means you have to push the pedal harder. Of course less assistance should increase feel. I think that once you have got used to pushing the pedal harder the brakes are actually quite good - just need to practise a couple of emergency stops on a quiet rd and you soon get used to the lack of servo assistance. Just different from the modern style of brakes that are extremely light and designed for easy driving. Just my thoughs though....... ATB

Have a search through the BBS but could not find the exact answer to a couple of Q's. Any help appreciated...... I have a 1997 facelifted j-spec auto TT 1. Are the brakes bigger than earlier j-specs? Mine subjectively look bigger and the calipers are black with the work "SUPRA" detailed in white on them. Are they 325mm? 2. Are the UK spec oil filters exactly the same as for the j-spec? Need an oil change soon. Also has onyone got a Mongoose exhaust system fitted from the turbo back? Just wondered about the quality, sound and performance improvement as well as the problems with the MOT emission test. ATB Barnstomer

ashley, thanks for that. I didn't know where the stock gauge took it reading from. I connected my Greddy gauge to the inlet manifold pressure sensor line so am reading inlet pressure which I suppose is the total boost of the combined induction system. My totally stock car runs about 0.8 bar at peak boost. ATB

outatime, got the gauge from Tim at... http://www.specialvehicle.co.uk/ Find the Japanese vehicle page and they have them listed. I emailed Tim and he did me a good price on a new gauge. It is extremely accurate and sensitive - the slightest change in throttle position is instantly reflected in the gauge reading. Much better than the stock one. Also being an electric gauge means that the wire from the gauge to the transmitter is very thin and easy to thread through the bulkhead - in fact it took me about 1 min to sort it out. Thought it was going to be the hardest bit. The only thing with these types of gauge is fitting them to the dash - I used the clock mount by removing the whole clock from the dash. Then remove the clock internals, used my Dremmel to cut to fit new gauge and then refitted. Takes 20 mins with a Dremmel and small file. The only problem I had was a blown fuse which I replaced and it looks fab. Fits flush with the dash and looks almost a stock fit. The only giveaway is the needle is white and not orange like the others. If required might be able to get some piccys if I can borrow a digital camera. Let me know. ATB

Fitted a boost gauge today. Got a 52mm electronic Greddy for accuracy and put it in the clock dash mount. Got my Dremmel out and carved up the clock, fitted in the boost gauge to it. Removed the wiring plug from the clock and attached it to the gauge wiring so if future to disconnect just use the original loom plug. Wired it up a treat - all worked first time except the hazards and turn indicators didn't work! I think I have forgotten to replace a plug from the upper dash - but as it got dark I had no light to finish the job. Or maybe a blown fuse. Took the motor out for a spin before dark and at full throttle shows around 0.8 bar which I reckon is about right for a stock engine. Wired it up so that the gauge back light is on when I turn on the lights although the dimmer does not adjust the level. I could wire the gauge back light to the light in the ashtray to get dimmer control but couldn't be arsed! Bit too fiddly and the back light is low anyway so max is just about right. As I have a face lifted 1997 j-spec with the original owners manual in Japanese I got my wife, who is Japanese, to translate the fuse box diagrams. I made up a spreadsheet with the detail son.I f you want the spreadsheet its here (about 1mb) http://www.teamsamas.com/supra/jfuse.zip I also just got some new ICE - an Alpine CDA-7893R (MP3) - to fit and some new speakers. Good job I have 2 weeks off work to do all this!!! ATB

Looked around and reckon the the new Greddy ones are the dogs. Easy to read, electrical sender, 52mm so fit into the clock mount and not too expensive. The SPA ones look good but are digital and not analogue - in my job the perfect gauge is often a combination of the two. Analoge for easy to read trend, big picture info for peripheral vision and digital for absolute readings/diagnostics. So far have not found a good combo gauge but will keep a look out. ATB

Could I use the stock gauge sender wire to drive an aftermarket guage? Save having to install another wire through the bulkhead...only trouble is the calibration. I'd have to compare the spec for the stock guage to that of the new one. Has anyone done this? Also if I fit a new electrical guage where does the new sender mount? Is it difficult to fit? Sorry for the q's but any help appreciated. ATB

Hi, I have a 1997 J-spec TT and it has a boost guage fitted as standard - part of the facelifted dash I believe. Can anyone tell me if this is a mechanical or electrical guage? I can take the dash off to find out but if someone can save me the bother......... Also the guage has no figures on it just "+", "0", "-" I assume it is + or - 1 bar. Any info of this guage would be appreciated. I did think about replacing the clock with a 52mm electrical boost guage - any suggestions? ATB