supra-ireland

I've got an Apexi air/fuel controller but don't have time to get it installed at the minute. I've got a boost gauge already in. I'll buy a 1.0 bar restrictor ring and stick it in for now.

Ok cheers mate. Well can someone recommend a good restrictor ring then, that should hopefully keep my boost pressure down to a safe level?

Hi- My car has a full decat and Turbo's capable of producing 2.0 bar (allegedly). I want to restrict the turbos to prevent damage. From what I've read I think I should be putting a 1.0 bar restrictor ring between the 1st and 2nd decat pipes. Is this correct? Is this enough to prevent damage? Are all 1.0 bar restrictor rings for Supra's the same or is there a particular version that I should be buying. -Cheers, Paul

I'm selling an entire engine (without a sump). The top end of the engine is knackered due to an overheat but the bottom end is fine. I'm told that some people may be interested in something like this for parts such as the crank or to rebuild. I'm also told that £150 + shipping is a fair price to ask so that's what I'm selling it for.

I had to replace the 2JZGTE in my car due to head damage caused by an overheat. The bottom end is fine and before swapping the engine out it would turn over and try to start but couldn't due to the lack of compression. PM me is your interested in it an we can discuss. The engine is in Ireland but could be shipped to the UK if required. The engine is all there, less ancillaries and the oil sump which I gave away to someone who needed one. -Regards...

Hi- I need a replacement rad for my '95, TT, Auto, J-Spec. I would need to have it shipped to Ireland. -Regards, Paul

Completely disconnect the SATA drives, power and data cables. Try to start up then. If you achieve some success with this get back to me and I'll see if I can help anymore. -Best of Luck, Paul

Big overheat, top end runined, hardly any compression, etc. I had myself resigned to getting a new engine. My mechanic opened up the head and confirmed it.

Hi Hodge- I'm currently looking for information on installing and Aristo 2JZGTE into a J-Spec. Any help would be appreciated. PM sent. -Cheers, Paul

It's dead...

Ok, thanks, you've put my mind at ease some what...

Sorry for the confusion at the start of my thread. I mistakenly thought that the engine was a vvti. The car is a non-vvti J-Spec and I believe the engine is a non-vvti 2JZGTE from an Aristo.

I've been reading around on several other forums and the more I read the more confused I get. Some people seem to be of the opinion that you can fit the Aristo engine, plug it into the existing J-Spec Supra ECU and have no problems (bar maybe the AC). Other people say that it's a massive headache putting an Aristo engine into a J-Spec, that it's a nightmare due to issues with the harness and ECU. Has anyone had experience of putting an Aristo 2JZGTE into a J-Spec? I don't' want to go ahead if it's going to turn into a disaster.

Ok, thanks again for all the advice. So if I'm understanding this correctly... The Aristo engine will work fine, certain bits will just have to be swapped over from the original engine. Also, the sump needs to be taken off the original engine and put onto the new, Aristo engine. Finally, I should use the Aristo ECU, if possible. Is there anything else that I'm missing or should that be it?

Yes, I did have trouble sourcing a replacement engine. The one that is available now is a 2JZGTE with a slightly different sump. From reading on here it seems that this engine must be from an Aristo. I can't find any other explanation for the sump variation. I have no reason to believe that the engine is vvti. So, lets says it's a non-vvti 2JZGTE, what complications will arise when trying to install this in my Mark IV? Can the sump be taken off the old Supra engine and simply be fitted to the new one? Which ECU will need to be used? Are there any other issues? -Thanks, Paul

Hmm, I think now that what I'm dealing with is an Aristo engine and not a vvti. Thanks for all the advice. So, if it is an Aristo engine, what issues would I be looking at to get it into a J-Spec?

Is there an easy way of telling if a 2JZGTE engine is a vvti or non-vvti. The engine in question is in a crate not a car.

Are there any issues or is there any extra work involved in putting a vvti-2JZGTE engine into a Mark IV which had the older pre-vvti 2JZGTE in it. I've been led to believe that the sump differs on the two engines. Can the old sump be simply swapped onto the newer engine? -Thanks, Paul

Probably a dumb question but... Can an engine from a manual TT be fitted into an automatic TT without any complications. I'm not talking about converting or anything like that, I just want to know if bar the actual engines in automatics and manuals are 100% swappable. -Cheers

Thanks for your diagnosis. I guess I have to face facts. I was just hoping that there might be another explanation but obviously not. Can someone tell me what is the function of the damaged hose that I mentioned? Also, what compression readings would a warped head give as opposed to damaged piston rings? Someone else told me that a blocked exhaust could cause such compression readings to be found but that didn't make any sense to me. I can't try to tow start it, as it's an Auto. I might have to try a rebuild as the car's not in the UK and I don't know anywhere that have any TT engines available.

Ok, so I've done some more investigation and it's not looking good. I took compression readings and got a depressing reading of around 50 on all cylinders. A visual inspection shows no signs of excessive wear / leakage around the plugs / cam covers, etc. The only thing that I saw to be damaged is the short rubber hose that comes out of the left cam cover, it looks very similar to the short hose that connects between the two cams. So can I take it for sure that the head is gone or is there anything else that could be causing readings as low as 50?

Ok, so I replaced all 6 plugs and the engine still won't start. I'm going to buy a compression tester and get some readings next. Could someone tell me the location of the fuel pump fuse that I have to remove before running the tests. Also, what sort of compression values are regarded as being healthy for the Supra? -Thanks

Ok, thanks for all the help. I'll check the plugs first. Do you think it's a somewhat positive sign that the engine cranks, trying to start but won't kick it?

Could you be abit more specific, I'm no expert. I've put water in the radiator and tried to start it but to no avail. Is this what you meant or am I missing something?

So was this comment "if it's an n/a engine you've fooked, i have one spare " just some sarcasm that I failed to detect?