Golfpro

Dont really went to start taking things apart until I have an idea of what the problem might be. Not sure what the fuel pressure is under load but at idle it is 25psi.

It happens even when accelerating slowly. It only levels once cruising speed is acheived.

Checked the exhaust gasses and they are grey/white. No split vac hoses as far as I can see.

Which vac lines in particular do you think would cause the AFRs to suddenly behave so strangely?

I have checked all the ones I can see. It is kinda difficult these nights as it is pitch black bu the time I get home.

The car has been driving brilliantly since the rebuild 9 months ago (PHR street kit, PHR stage1 fuel system, MAP ECU2 etc). In the last couple of days it has suddenly gone mad. The AFRs seem to be reacting in slow motion. When accelerating normally the AFRs go lean (18) for a couple of seconds then gradually rise to normal at 14.5. When lifting off they fall to 10 or 11 as expected but take ages (10 seconds) to slowly rise back up to 14.5. I was thinking fuel pump or FPR trouble rather than mapping as the fuelling was perfect until recently. Does anyone have any ideas before we have to take things apart?

If the car runs perfectly at other times and idles ok from cold then the heatshield may be your solution. It was for me.

Are you running the stock airbox or aftermarket filter? If you have removed the standard filter box your problem could be heatsoak from the engine. My car had exactly the same symptoms after I went single. I made a cold air box around the filter and now it is perfect.

Mariah Carey[sHOCK][/sHOCK] Street cred just nosedived dude.

His design is certainly a really nice bit of work but I would say that using solid sheet aluminium is not a DIY job! Coming from the building trade I know how strong aluminium is. Even thin sheets are really hard to bend properly without the right workshop and tools. The benefit of the Nimbus 2 is that it has a chequer pattern which allows it to be easily bent by hand in pretty much any direction. It is also more insulated as it is actually two sheets sandwiched together with air trapped between. Of course you could use the Nimbus along with his pattern. His box looks a bit small though (he only has a small one -Filter that is:rolleyes:). I would suggest making your own template out of cardboard before cutting the metal. It is really easy to do and lets you custom fit it for your particular filter. Here are my templates. As you can see it is pretty straightforward to measure and make.

Have you ever put your hand between the fan and the filter? The air (that has been sucked through the hot radiator) comes off the blades of the fan sideways straight to where the filter sits. Also hot air rises, so when the car is stationary the heat will build up and eventually fill the entire engine bay. The best way to stop this from getting sucked straight into the filter is to make a complete box around it and duct cold air from outside. Most single owners dont have a problem with heatsoak as they are usually going fast all the time.

Drive home tonight was a pleasure. Heat soak was pretty much eliminated. I would recommend this mod for anyone using a single as a daily driver. It dosnt cost a bomb either as the parts are less than £150 and I guess anyone with basic DIY skills and a bit of patience should be able to put it together.

Just got this airbox made to keep hot engine bay heat out of the aftermarket air filter (heatsoak was driving me crazy in rush hour traffic). It is made from Nimbus 2 heat resistant metal lined on the inside with kevlar matting. Two flexible ram air ducts the feed cold air in from the bumper through holes in the bulkhead. Will see how it performs tomorrow.

Sky wont quote for NI. Im insured by Greenlight. Not cheap but at least they will cover like for like parts.

I have the same setup on mine (only with drilled discs rather than the grooved). I previously had UK specs on and they were good but the new setup is light years ahead in terms of feel and stopping power. Probably could have got away with the fronts only as the calipers are MASSIVE and strong enough for serious breaking. It just looks the dogs with matching front and rear.

Problem solved. Took it to my mechanic for a onceover and he found a slight leak between the pipe and intercooler. Once retightened everything was good to go. BOV obviously not the problem thank goodness.

i was driving in heavy traffic so didnt get a chance to open up. Wouldnt think it showed more than about 0.5 bar.

The boost guage needle moves but I`m not convinced that there is any significant power rise. If it was stuck open would the car drive more like an N/A?

Noticed on the way home tonight that there was no noise from the BOV when I changed gears. It is only a couple of months old after going single and up to now has given the usual noticable noise until today. The car seems to drive ok otherwise and the boost gauge is registering boost. I have checked the vac tube and it is attached both ends. Might it be jammed open?

Just got the car back from its final tune. I have been running low boost for the first 1000 miles or so to let all the new parts settle in. It has now been mapped to 1.2/1.3 bar (PHR street turbo kit, fuel system, MAP ECU2 and much more). The drive home on some nice twisty B roads was excellent. The smooth torquey power band was really responsive and at no time did I feel like it was going to chuck me into the nearest hedge. First impressions are that it is a great street car. Thanks must go to Dusty at MVP for helping me select the right parts and also Colin and Marty at SSI for putting it together and mapping.

Ooops:innocent: Meant drum brakes.

Why not go for the Brembo monoblock front kit? It is only slightly dearer than the F50 kit but it is the best they make. I have it fitted on mine together with the rear kit. It is awesome. Makes the uk spec setup seem like disc brakes! SSI did all my work and I can strongly recommend them.

Problem seems to be sorted now. Took the car back to the mechanic. He is about 20 miles away and there are some steep hills so had to give it a bit of stick (especially as there was a scooby sti on my tailgate who needed put in his place). The light suddenly went off and hasn`t come back on since. I guess that the sensor mechanism must have been jammed after the pump and oil changeover then was freed up when I gave it some revs.

Defo the oil level light. All lights come on when ignition is turned on so wiring must be ok. Phoned the mechanic who fitted the pump. He reconed that the oil level sensor must need cleaned/ adjusted/renewed.

Just picked up the car last night after finally getting the PHR oil pump fitted (hopefully the last of any FMS problems!). Got halfway home and the oil level warning light came on. Stopped to check the oil and it is right up to max on the dipstick with brand new Silkolene Pro S. This morning when I started it the light was off but after 10 mins driving it came back on. Very strange:blink: