SupraStormRising

Well maybe there is some kind of trend going on here my car has been hit same place almost identical damage no details left.. Didn't think of getting police involved though as my NCB is protected and excess is £250

I would unfortunately where I live (a flat which i've been trying to sell since Jan) only has P&D car park as well!!

Well this is just great my car is parked in a car park yesterday from 8am to 1pm (Xmas shopping with the other half) come back to car somone has smashed into the rear drivers side...! OEM Spat is buckled rear bumper bent and rear quarter panel has creases by the fuel cap and spat join plus paint cracked and metalwork exposed! Now how on Gods green earth does somone do that much damage hiting a car either going into or out of a carparking space????? Oh and suprise suprise no details left behind!!! Edit: Will add pics when I get a chance! Grrrr

Hopefully I should be there last one I went to was good

Yup me to very good had mine for about 6months

Any idea on price to fix the "door open light" fault? Also while I remember do you have a set of OEM Skirts in red or any decent set of skirts in red as both my OEM skirts are cracked also an auto shifter in good condition! Also how long would you need the car if doing the door open fault and fitting skirts?

Nope mine stays on permanantly even when the keys are out the ignition so as a temp measure till I either get somone who is willing to fix it or I fix it myself i've taken the bulb out

Any idea on price to fix the "door open light" fault? Also while I remember do you have a set of OEM Skirts in red or any decent set of skirts in red as both my OEM skirts are cracked also an auto shifter in good condition and any door speakers if you have any! Also how long would you need the car if doing the door open fault and fitting skirts?

The Jap octane level is 100 on their premium I believe From Wiki:- Fuel type It is commonly believed that efficiency of a gasoline engine is related to the fuel's octane level; however, this is not true in most situations. Octane rating is only a measure of the fuel's propensity to cause an engine to "ping", this ping is due to "pre-combustion", which occurs when the fuel burns too rapidly (before the piston reaches top dead center). Higher octane fuels burn more slowly at high pressures. For the vast majority of vehicles (i.e. vehicles with "standard" compression ratios), standard octane fuel will work fine and not cause pinging. Using high octane fuel in a vehicle that does not need it is generally considered an unnecessary expense[13], although Toyota has measured slight differences in efficiency due to octane number even when knock is not an issue [14]. Most vehicles equipped with emissions systems have sensors that will automatically adjust the timing, if and when ping is detected, so low octane fuel can be used even if the engine is designed for high octane, at some reduction in efficiency. If the engine is designed for high octane then higher octane fuel will result in higher performance (with full-open throttle), but not necessarily fuel cost savings, since the high-octane is only needed with the throttle fully open. For other vehicles that have problems with ping, it may be due to a maintenance problem, such as carbon buildup inside the cylinder or incorrect spark plug tip length. In such cases, higher octane fuel may help, but this is an expensive fix, proper repair might make more long term sense. There is slightly less energy in a gallon of high octane fuel, than low octane[15]. Ping is detrimental to an engine; it will decrease fuel economy and will damage the engine over time.

I would say this maybe slightly wrong unless the US cars can run on a lot lower octane levels than the Jap&Uk cars as the premium unleaded in the USA is only 92-93 see below "The AKI (anti-knock index -- also known as "octane rating") of the fuel is an average of two different methods of computing the fuel's ability to resist engine knock. Regular unleaded gas in the U.S. has an anti-knock index of 87, while mid-grade is usually 89, and premium typically is 91 - 93. The higher the number, the more anti-knock protection the fuel offers. " Edit:- As a sub note all a higher Octane level means is the "fuel" has a higher ignition temperature and slower burn which inturn reduces the chance of knocking/detting which is the fuel/air mixture exploding while the piston is still moving upward. Therefore pushing it against it's natural movement as it's not at the top of it's stroke, in effect the engine begins to work against itself!

You can go to most patent part places. I got a decent set for my Import N/A for £50 for fronts and rears, they're good to I used them to replace my pads when I fixed my brakes as old ones were glazed quite a bit! Edit:- The rears were £20 as they are very small pads on the J-Spec rears

All the electrical diagrams can be found here Linky This is for a LHD but the circuits are the same. I have the same problem with my door open light staying on but it is the boot switch circuit that has the issue! Good luck with trying to fix.

Hi Jezz, said i'd be back i've P/M'd a couple of requests price for N/A to TT and also fault diagnosis a fix price (roughly)..

Mmmm maybe thought it was part of J/B No.1 Integration Relay but I don't think it is now from looking at the diagrams again. I have determined the diodes are tiny though!

Mmmm gonna leave till the weekend now me thinks, I will update once i've had a few hours to try and fix it! Edit: What a tit i've been looking at the MKIV.com elec wiring diagrams the interior light diode is drivers side not passengers, lol it's on the panel drivers side with the fuse box!

Okay I might be daft but what does the diode actually look like? Will take the plug off tomorrow just had all the boot panels off to check but then had to put them all back on again (lunch break isn't long enough!)

Well it's not the switch itself that's broken the cable must be earthing itself somewhere which is why the boot light is on constantly.! Ahhhhh broke the pin holding the passenger kick plate trying to look at the diode for the circuit I feel some wire cutters maybe used to make it a permanant broken circuit!!! (warning light comes on when it's a closed circuit)

Woohoo Diagnosis hopefully complete, the boot interior light stays on with the boot closed (just climbed over to check:)). Is this definately a circuit that causes the "door open light" to come on? Edit: Believe i've answered my own question searching posts which is yes the boot when open does turn on the "Door open light" if anyone knows otherwise let me know...

This may help both of us mate Entire Electrical System

I think you maybe onto something thinking about it the light in my boot didn't work before but now it does maybe a coincidence..... As a point of interest if your door open light is always on (just no bulb) your dash exclamation mark light should also be on when the ignition is on (you may have two bulbs removed ) I'll see if I can find that boot switch...!

Thought I would phone the company that installed the alarm to ask what they think.... They don't exist anymore Guess i'll have a go this weekend at sorting it if not hope an autospark can fix it

I'll have a look myself I think the likely culprit is gonna be a wire somewhere behind the dash as that's what i've had out to replace the brake booster and brake pedal mounting bracket....! Otherwise it's almighty convienient it's gone at the same time!

Right with the ignition off the internal light isn't coming on with either bonnet or boot..! will try with ignition on in a bit...

Okay bonnet is easy it's near the air filter attached with one screw (will check to see if it turns light on and off) but i'll be damned if I can see one on the boot.... Any ideas? Also wouldn't my interior light be on all the time as well as the "door open light" if the fault was with one of the switches?

The switches seem to be working fine as the interior light is working properly might still have a look at them then if they're fine definately getting an autospark to fix it