beefweasal

I've got a Blitz SBCIDIII boost controller, and recently it's been giving me some odd readings as far as boost levels are concerned. I've got it set to read in PSI, and was running somewhere around 17lbs. Now for some reason the display is giving me peak figures of 7 to 7.4. It runs as quick as it ever did, so i don't think there is an issue with it making boost. I've checked all the pipes, they seem to be ok, and i've checked that the settings on the controller are ok, and still set to PSI. The odd thing is that when the car is pre boost, i still see expected figures with the vacuum, (-6). Any ideas?? thank you.

I love it, No-one seems to have any clue what it is. Jaws just drop as the turbos spool up and it leaves them behind. I'd never seen one when i bought it, only the GS300. It's fast too; does anyone know the official top-end? i'm reluctant to say how quick i've had it (on a private track of course;) ). apart from the twin 4" powerflow pipes, the only sign of it being a 'bit special' are the 285/35/18" dunlops on vortex Rims. REALLY need to upgrade the brakes too. just discs and pads. any ideas? Does anyone know if it's possible to drop it to improve the handling yet not lose the 'Fat Man' Ride quality. I've got a dropped Escort for when i want to shake my teeth out and compress my vertibrae. xxx Jody, your aristo looks pretty naughty. mine's standard bodywise at the moment. looking for inspiration. Do-Luck make me grin a bit. does anyone else do anything?

Hi guys! Problem Solved. I went back down to the paintshop today, feeling quite negative about getting my ARISTO going. She cranked the same as yesterday, so I disconnected the battery for half an hour as resetting the ECU had been suggested. After staring at the engine for another 20 minutes, trying to convince myself I knew what I was doing, I followed the instructions on how to access the fault codes through the diagnostics port under the bonnet. I found it easiest to run a long loop of cable with a push switch in it into the car. That way I could link the terminals E1 and TE1 when I could see the MIL on the dash by pushing the switch. The light flashed twice a second, which when referenced on the table means ‘NO FAULT’. I started to sweat a bit more. So, back to basics. I got a can of easystart,( which was rusty around the bottom as it hadn’t left the garage shelf since I owned my 1973 mini 1000 8 years ago). And sprayed it directly into the air intake. Nothing. Not a sausage. After removing the coilpack and checking for a spark on cylinder no.1, I thought I’d check for fuel in the cylinder. It was soaked and I couldn’t understand why I had fuel, spark, ECU and No GO. There was one thing left. Check the plug I’d just removed. Sure enough, after cleaning it up and putting it back in, up she fired, with the BLITZ air intake trying to suck in various tools, my tea, and anything in close vicinity. Just goes to show Check the basics first! I’m still grinning, and feel very clever indeed. Thanks for everyones help and suggestions, I really appreciate it. I’ll be a regular to this site!

Hi guys! Problem Solved. I went back down to the paintshop today, feeling quite negative about getting my ARISTO going. She cranked the same as yesterday, so I disconnected the battery for half an hour as resetting the ECU had been suggested. After staring at the engine for another 20 minutes, trying to convince myself I knew what I was doing, I followed the instructions on how to access the fault codes through the diagnostics port under the bonnet. I found it easiest to run a long loop of cable with a push switch in it into the car. That way I could link the terminals E1 and TE1 when I could see the MIL on the dash by pushing the switch. The light flashed twice a second, which when referenced on the table means ‘NO FAULT’. I started to sweat a bit more. So, back to basics. I got a can of easystart,( which was rusty around the bottom as it hadn’t left the garage shelf since I owned my 1973 mini 1000 8 years ago). And sprayed it directly into the air intake. Nothing. Not a sausage. After removing the coilpack and checking for a spark on cylinder no.1, I thought I’d check for fuel in the cylinder. It was soaked and I couldn’t understand why I had fuel, spark, ECU and No GO. There was one thing left. Check the plug I’d just removed. Sure enough, after cleaning it up and putting it back in, up she fired, with the BLITZ air intake trying to suck in various tools, my tea, and anything in close vicinity. Just goes to show Check the basics first! I’m still grinning, and feel very clever indeed. Thanks for everyones help and suggestions, I really appreciate it. I’ll be a regular to this site!

Hi guys! Problem Solved. I went back down to the paintshop today, feeling quite negative about getting my ARISTO going. She cranked the same as yesterday, so I disconnected the battery for half an hour as resetting the ECU had been suggested. After staring at the engine for another 20 minutes, trying to convince myself I knew what I was doing, I followed the instructions on how to access the fault codes through the diagnostics port under the bonnet. I found it easiest to run a long loop of cable with a push switch in it into the car. That way I could link the terminals E1 and TE1 when I could see the MIL on the dash by pushing the switch. The light flashed twice a second, which when referenced on the table means ‘NO FAULT’. I started to sweat a bit more. So, back to basics. I got a can of easystart,( which was rusty around the bottom as it hadn’t left the garage shelf since I owned my 1973 mini 1000 8 years ago). And sprayed it directly into the air intake. Nothing. Not a sausage. After removing the coilpack and checking for a spark on cylinder no.1, I thought I’d check for fuel in the cylinder. It was soaked and I couldn’t understand why I had fuel, spark, ECU and No GO. There was one thing left. Check the plug I’d just removed. Sure enough, after cleaning it up and putting it back in, up she fired, with the BLITZ air intake trying to suck in various tools, my tea, and anything in close vicinity. Just goes to show Check the basics first! I’m still grinning, and feel very clever indeed. Thanks for everyones help and suggestions, I really appreciate it. I’ll be a regular to this site! xxx:d

sounds possible, thanks. is it possible to flood these engines? the car first didn't start yesterday morning. would it still be flooded now? if so do you know how i could drain it? it's allways started first time, on the button for me. really appreciate your help OSSO.

Help!she Just Won't Go! I know it's cheeky to post this here, but i'm desperate! Hi guys, i'm a brand new member and i have been pointed in your direction for some much needed help. I've got a 1995 MK1 Aristo, with the 2JZ-GTE engine i believe you guys are familiar with! it's in for some paintwork, and the bodyshop called me to say she won't start:( I've been over to have a look at it and i'm not sure where to start. i can't find anyone who knows much about the Aristo, but i'm lead to believe it's basically an uncool supra, with the same ECU and running gear hope someone can help! I got there and the car turns over fine. The first thing i did was remove the fuel filler cap, and she gave me a reassuring hiss. i think that's a good thing? I've removed the front coil pack, and checked that we have a spark, so i think the ignition system is o.k. I've also checked all the fuses, and the feed directly to the fuel pump. All is fine. I've tried delivering 12 volts direct to the pump, and she still didn't want to start!!! the tank is reading three quarters, but to check i removed the sender unit. sure enough it's got £60 worth of optimax slopping around in it. The last thing i did was undo the fuel pressure regulator in the front of the injector rail, on cranking i got a 'healthy' spurt. i'm guessing the pressures there, but i'm not an expert, so i can't be sure! no idea what to try next. As far as i'm aware, there is no immobiliser of any type on the car, just remote locking built into the key. If i have fuel and spark, but no go what do i check next. If anyone can shed any light i'd really appreciate it! gotta go back tommorow and have another look Cheers guys. Phill

hi guys, she turns over a treat. no problems with inhibitor switch, just won't fire. i stuck my arm up one of the twin powerflow 4" pipes and it smelt of fuel. i just can't figure it. how do i reset the ECU? sounds like a plan!!! You can definately bump start a car with a knackered starter motor. it will do the same job. often frees up the starter motor at the same time too.

Thanks Jody. This seems like a Good bunch of peeps, maybe if i take a big hammer to the nose of the Aristo and hammer it into more of a wedge shape, i'll feel more at home with you guys. I must admit, it's quite amusing to unleash 'Supra power' on unsuspecting Subarus, cossies and other such street furniture. x

Hi guys, i'm a brand new member and i have been pointed in your direction for some much needed help. I've got a 1995 MK1 Aristo, with the 2JZ-GTE engine i believe you guys are familiar with! it's in for some paintwork, and the bodyshop called me to say she won't start:( I've been over to have a look at it and i'm not sure where to start. i can't find anyone who knows much about the Aristo, but i'm lead to believe it's basically an uncool supra, with the same ECU and running gear hope someone can help! The first thing i did was remove the fuel filler cap, and she gave me a reassuring hiss. i think that's a good thing? I've removed the front coil pack, and checked that we have a spark, so i think the ignition system is o.k. I've also checked all the fuses, and the feed directly to the fuel pump. All is fine. I've tried delivering 12 volts direct to the pump, and she still didn't want to start!!! the tank is reading three quarters, but to check i removed the sender unit. sure enough it's got £60 worth of optimax slopping around in it. The last thing i did was undo the fuel pressure regulator in the front of the injector rail, on cranking i got a 'healthy' spurt. i'm guessing the pressures there, but i'm not an expert, so i can't be sure! no idea what to try next. As far as i'm aware, there is no immobiliser of any type on the car, just remote locking built into the key. If i have fuel and spark, but no go what do i check next. If anyone can shed any light i'd really appreciate it! gotta go back tommorow and have another look Cheers guys. Phill

Hi guys, i'm a brand new member and i have been pointed in your direction for some much needed help. I've got a 1995 MK1 Aristo, with the 2JZ-GTE engine i believe you guys are familiar with! it's in for some paintwork, and the bodyshop called me to say she won't start:( I've been over to have a look at it and i'm not sure where to start. i can't find anyone who knows much about the Aristo, but i'm lead to believe it's basically an uncool supra, with the same ECU and running gear hope someone can help! The first thing i did was remove the fuel filler cap, and she gave me a reassuring hiss. i think that's a good thing? I've removed the front coil pack, and checked that we have a spark, so i think the ignition system is o.k. I've also checked all the fuses, and the feed directly to the fuel pump. All is fine. I've tried delivering 12 volts direct to the pump, and she still didn't want to start!!! the tank is reading three quarters, but to check i removed the sender unit. sure enough it's got £60 worth of optimax slopping around in it. The last thing i did was undo the fuel pressure regulator in the front of the injector rail, on cranking i got a 'healthy' spurt. i'm guessing the pressures there, but i'm not an expert, so i can't be sure! no idea what to try next. As far as i'm aware, there is no immobiliser of any type on the car, just remote locking built into the key. If i have fuel and spark, but no go what do i check next. If anyone can shed any light i'd really appreciate it! gotta go back tommorow and have another look:search: Cheers guys. Phill