charlieboo

Thank you Nice. I'll take both of them. PM me your PayPal address.

I need a standard airbox to replace the aftermarket trash currently installed. Thanks.

I understand your concern. So, how much would you charge for a job like this using OEM parts and what (out of interest) is the gear that I would need to do it myself?

1. Fairly. I was confident enough to rip the engine out to do the oil pump. Different ball park I know, but it's still just like Lego when all said and done. 2. Yep. 3. I sure do.

My oil pump has gone pop and so while I have my engine out, I am thinking about the possibility of doing a rebuild. This would be a first for me and so I thought I would ask for some input from you nice people. I have around £2000 to spend and was thinking of replacing the bolts, rings, bearings, valve stuff (springs, shims and oil seals) and getting everything else cleaned up. I intend to stick with the stock twins for now, but may upgrade to a SMALL single in the future. What parts would you recommend (keeping in mind my budget) and what (if any) are the major headaches associated with DIY’ing this kind of thing?

Put everything back together today and did a compression check. I get (cylinder 1 to 6) 160, 140, 160, 140, 130, 110 (psi). Does this eliminate valve and piston issues?

Checked both intake and exhaust clearances and all are within spec. One of the cam position sensors looks like it's been hit with a hammer on one corner. Double checked that the cam wasn't smashing into it though. Also, I noticed that when turning the crank (by hand) there is a point where there is a lot of resistance. Then is suddenly eases off again. Is this normal?

Not sure. When turning the crank by hand, the cam seems to make a smooth contact with them. It's a very loud rattle. It's quite scary to stand anywhere near the engine when its running. Sounds like there is a ball bearing being fired around. Could the shims cause such a noise?

I forgot to mention the following... 1. Rattle is in time with revs. 2. Gets louder with more revs. 3. Struggles to start (hesitates), but then does start and runs normally. 4. During idle, the revs drop at random intervals (anywhere between 5 to 20 seconds). Almost stalls, but picks up again. The cam position sensors aren't stuck, but I would imagine that if one was, then the noise would be similar.

There is a loud rattling noise coming from under the intake side cam cover (wooden stick to ear trick). I checked timing belt pulley first, removed aux belt (to see if it was PAS/AC pump) but the noise is still there. It sounds like there is something metallic blowing around (my no 2 turbine shattered recently so was thinking it could be bits of that). I removed the intake and runners, but found nothing abnormal in there. I can see the valves and all look normal. Turning the engine over by hand I can see some of the valves moving up and down a bit, but I’m now not sure what I should be looking for. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

It appears that my j-spec turbo(s) may have gone bang. I will know more this weekend, but in the mean time, I would like to know if anybody is offloading any good condition seconds, either now or in the near future and most importantly, how will this effect my already starved wallet? Thanks.

Ah, of course. For some reason I wasn't considering the option thats bits could just exit via the exhaust. Maybe there lies my silver lining. Thank you.

I forgot to mention that the CAT's were removed long ago. She's BPU (1.2 bar restrictor) with FMIC.

Thanks for quick replies. It is indeed a j-spec. I will have to leave looking at the turbos until the weekend. If a blade has passed through the head, what are the chances of it causing serious damage? I've just bought a house and this has come at the exactly the wrong time.

Please can somebody help me to diagnose this problem? The other evening, I was driving along at 30 miles per hour when I felt something strange. Can’t remember what it was, but instinct was to hit brakes and press clutch pedal. The revs continued as though my foot was still on the gas, so I pulled over to a safe place and turned off the ignition. It occurred to me that maybe I had hit both brake and gas at the same time, so I turned her back on and everything seemed fine. I continued on my journey, but noticed that my first turbo seemed to be a little nosier than normal. The change was not dramatic and I thought I must be imagining it due to the previous incident. I arrived at my destination and turned her off. About an hour later, I set off home. Everything was fine and turbo noise seemed normal, however all of a sudden I lost power and something sounded like it fell out of the engine. I heard a metallic pinging sound as something travelled from the front of the car to the rear. I rolled to a halt and went to investigate under the hood. Everything seemed fine. No visible oil, water on the engine undercover and everything seemed intact. I got back in and tried to start her, but there was a horrid grinding sound as though there was no oil and she refused to start. I checked the oil dipstick and it was just slightly below the minimum mark, but there were no warning lights on. I always carry some oil and water in the boot, so I topped it up and tried again. This time, there was no grinding noise and she started, albeit a little hesitantly, so I decided to crawl home and review the situation the next day. To my horror, I now find that my #1 turbo is not producing any boost and it sounds to be spinning very freely. I stripped off my FMIC and associated pipes, but found no blockages, any sign of oil or ceramic bits. My FMIC core is intact and there is no sign of anything irregular passing through it. I have checked the intake chamber and exhaust, and again, there is no sign of anything irregular. Surely if some part of my turbo had gone through the air intake, into the head and out the exhaust, there would be some clear signs? Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I recently noticed that my steering wheel was vibrating and felt very light. After many hours of attempting to solve the issue, I finally found the cause to be air in the power steering system. After performing a full flush and bleeding the steering felt like new. However, the problem keeps reoccurring. I have now bled the system 3 times and each time it this solves it. I have checked that all the hoses are tight and even replaced some of them. I am beginning to wonder if the PAS pump is faulty! Anyone have any ideas on the matter?

Yeah, the car came with an after market air filter and my I/C is poor. The engine bay gets really hot, but I assumed this was normal for Supes. The temp guage read's normal. Got new plugs, fuel pump, oil filter, all fluids changed, etc, etc. I've wraped heat shield around the air intake pipes for the time being, but it's not made any noticable difference. Will a new I/C make a big difference?

Boost guage says between 0.9 and 1 bar!

I don’t claim to be Schumacher, but my driving is not that bad. It was on a stretch of straight motorway, was perfectly dry and he had a passenger that has obviously been to McDonalds more times than would be considered healthy. He was only a youngster, about 21 and I think he would have been more inclined to exaggerate the spec of the Evo rather than play it down. I’ve seen it said (written) on here, that the surge of power at 4000rpm when BPU is quite violent, is this true?

My BPU 96 TT was beaten by an Evo VI last night on the motorway. Stayed with him from around 50 until around 110 then HE began to pull away. At the next set of lights, he told me that it was a stock 2.0 turbo. The only known issues with my TT are that the Intercooler has seen better days and I haven’t replaced my fuel filter yet. I get a noticeable surge of power at 4000rpm, but not as severe as when the CATs were in. Also, my exhaust smells like Optimax. I’m now convinced that something is wrong. Any ideas on what to check?

My side-mount-intercooler ducting was missing when the supe was purchased. Anybody got one going cheap?

Some idiot reversed into the front of my Supe last night. Luckily for me, I heard the impact and managed to catch him before he could drive away. Unluckily for him, he has left a small dent in the centre of the nose of the Supe and the paint has been removed from an area about the size of a 50 pence piece. The Supe has a Predator body kit (or so I’m told) and is metallic silver (as standard and not gunmetal). My question is, will the nose need replacing, filled and fully re-sprayed or just filled and sprayed over? The offending chap would prefer to settle this without involving the insurance and I’m just wondering what is the best thing to do? Thanks in advance.