Boomer

There's me thinking I had done well changing the brake fluid and bleeding all the brake lines. Nothing in comparison to what many of you were up to...

Had pretty much the same problem. Changed the battery and it has been fine ever since. The calcium HCB005 from halfrauds was about £60

I seem to remember that the RS-232 serial spec allowed for 50 foot of cable at 19200 baud. Decreasing the speed to 2400 baud would allow something like 3000ft but it may cost more to buy a 3000ft cable than one of the laptops.... More details here

The "L" is usually for blue in the wiring diagrams (see attached). There is a green LED with the off / auto down controls to indicate the spoiler is deployed.

Is it a flashing "O/D off" light giving you these codes? If so they are auto transmission diagnostic codes. Hopefully this thread will help. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=45036

Could be the fuse in the cigarette lighter adapter or a lack of power to the lighter socket. May be worth a quick check before taking it back to the shop...

Marvelous - I changed my plugs and all the plastic bits had pretty much disintegrated. I have been planning to replace them and this will certainly help. Thanks for taking the time...

A work colleage was chatting about this today, saying how good his experience was. Never had to meet them, everything done through scanned docs or recorded delivery (when actual signatures required) and a good price too. I will try to get the site off of him tomorrow.

No idea if it helps the discussion or not, but here are some picks of the same area of my j-spec TT. I seem to have a similar gap and there is also no bolt / hole on the top of the bracket.

Yep, but I would have had to go out and buy it. The primer was left over. To be honest with my usual level of success with these things I would probably have dropped the damn thing into the paint and never seen it again....

Like many here I have been unhappy about the effectiveness of my j-spec headlights. Now I know the correct answer to the is problem is to contact the pimp for a set of decent HIDS. This is under consideration but it is still a fair few reddies at the mo. As an interim step I decided to look at why the current setup is so bad. What I found, by covering individual lights, was that the drivers side dipped beam was adjusted to point as far to the passenger side as it would go. Both the "bright spots" were drilling a hole into the ground a few feet in front of me. I adjusted the beam to point in a normal direction and level but now I am blinding everyone because there is no definition to the beam cut off. Looking at the bulbs I notice that they are uncapped, which is usual for main beam but unusual for dipped. Thinking that it would cost about 30 quid if I ruined the bulbs I decided to mess with them. Out came the masking tape and the grey primer and with an hour or so to dry I now have capped 9005's. I had to clean the bulbs after with a a scourer and some glass cleaner to get rid of the excess glue and escaped grey paint. I now have a much better beam pattern and improved cut off definition. I can now set a reasonable adjustment and can see again...

Got one of these from Halfrauds http://www.tool-catalogue.co.uk/images/69661_V-WM17-19.jpg Comes with a 17mm and 19mm reversible socket and the handle extends to make it dead easy to get enough leverage. Worked a treat when I found that the Toyota supplied wrench slipped over mine. Looks like we all have odd shaped nuts!! http://www.tool-catalogue.co.uk/tools.php/products_id/4277 Cheers, Chris.

1) Terawua 2) Paul 3) JohnA - Hell YES 4) Pixelfill - Yes Please 5) Pete 6) SteveR 7) 8) Supraloopy. 9) Weinelm. 10) Pig, - Yes, this the right place 11) Smarty 12) SimonB 13) zap. 14) merckx - YES 15) Terminator 16) b'have YES 17) Angarak 18) Justin 19) Boomer - Yes Please 20) suprarob 21) simon 22) Scooter 23) Chris Wilson - YES 24) Gordon F 25) Secondjump 26) TLicense 27) Supra matt 28) Dragon 29) Faye 30) Ellis 31) Syed Shah - YES 32) stevie_b 33) AntD 34) Dave Haggas 35) Lee Perryman 36) Paul E 37) Marco 38) eyefi -yes 39) KaoriFan 40) AshBhp

You can whip the network lead out. A bit drastic, but you will then log in with cached credentials and the local copy of the profile. Cheers, Chris.

The parallel port has a number of different "modes" that can be configured in the bios (depending on the age of ther machine). Most multi-function printers will need EPP or ECP mode to work correctly. If your machine is "seeing" the printer but not any of the additional features like fax or scanner then you most likley have the parallel port set for "standard" or "IEEE 1284" only. I would suggest trying ECP 1.9 if it is available. (These links are a bit techy but may help) http://www.fapo.com/1284faq.htm http://searchsmb.techtarget.com/sDefinition/0,,sid44_gci212069,00.html Cheers, Chris.

Not sure if this would be of interest http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml Cheers, Chris.

1) Terawua 2) Paul 3) JohnA 4) Pixelfill 5) Pete 6) SteveR 7) Colsoop. Please 8) Supraloopy. Please 9) Weinelm. Yes Please. 10) Pig, Thanks 11) Smarty 12) SimonB 13) zap. 14) merckx 15) Terminator 16) b'have 17) Angarak 18) Justin 19) Boomer - Thanks.

Try this tread for info on how to get the onboard diacnostic codes and this thread for the auto box codes. The auto box codes show up as a flashing OD OFF light in the same way the MIL light flashes for the engine codes. Cheers, Chris.

Standard lotto odds are 1:13,983,816. Quote from one site... It is hard to appreciate how small this figure is: for example, the chance of death within one year for a middle-aged healthy man might be one in 1,000. If so, the chance he dies within the next week is one in 52,000; within the next day about one in 365,000, within the next hour about one in nine million - still bigger than the chance of a jackpot share. Indeed, on these figures, he is about as likely to win a jackpot share with one ticket as he is to die in the next 40 minutes. But then someone has to win.... Hope you pick lucky numbers and let us all have a spin in your Lambo.

It does not foul on mine, but as you can (hopefully) see it is not flush with the top of the boot, but set down a tad.

Puting the "is it pointless" question to one side for a second, would placing a switch in line with the IACV VSV accomplish what is being asked for? There seem to be a number of "2nd turbo not boosting" threads that are linked to the IACV not opening and thus not spinning up tubby No2. (check the newbie status in my title and heed it's warning before trying anything I suggest!!!) Cheers, Chris.

Not sure if if this is the bit you are after. Is it the sun visor type thing in this picture?

Can't stand the gym or jogging. I like to be learning something and find I am more motivated when training as part of a group. Took up a martial art. As has been mentioned a number of times in this thread, it's about finding something works for you....

Spotted a Red L reg in Tunbridge Wells at the lights opposite the Saab garage (Tonbridge Road at the junction of the A228 near Pembury). Anyone here?

I also found references to Mobil ATF 3309 whilst hunting for T-IV alternatives. Also Mazda were recommending a range of compatible HFM ATF fluids that included T-IV in the list. For lots of oil geekyness and a number of threads where T-IV alternatives are discussed see this thread and others on bobistheoilguy.