Internal differenses: 2JZ turbo and 2JZ non-turbo

Hello!

I have a question about the 2JZ engines, both turbo and non-turbo. It is easy to understand the external differenses like turbo, intercooler etc. But what about the internal differenses in these engines? I guess they have different camshafts, but whatelse? The compression are most likely not the same on these engines, are the piston, rod and crankshaft the same?

And another ting, do anyone of you know where I can find information about bore, stroke, compression and etc about turbo and non-turbo 2JZ engine?

N/A block does not have piston aquirter jets, pistons are different, no turbo oil returns in block, oil pump is different, cams are different, head is different, manifolding is different, ignition system is different. Crank and rods, AFAIK, are the same. Bore and stroke and stuff is easiliy found on Google.

manifolding???

Intake and exhaust I guess makes sense to me

So in a nutshell not alot the same

Compression ratios are 2JZGTE 8.5:1 and 2JZGE 10.5:1, I have read that the exhaust outlets on the na head are slightly larger than the tt head, not sure but i would have said bore and stroke are the same

Thanks for the info!

The reason I`m asking, is because I`m considering building me a Supra engine, with turbo and 600hp+++. And beacuse I will build new exaust manifold, install bigger turbo, computer based ingnition and fuel system etc. I though that maybee I should use the NA engine to build on, since this engine is much cheaper than a 2JZ turbo engine.

How is it to turbo convert the NA engine? If I put on a thicker head gasket to lower the compression? How much horsepower can the NA engine handle with stock internal parts?

And another think. The 2JZ NA supra engine, is that exactely the same engine as the Lexus 2JZ (NA engine)?

That's how i would build a turbo Supra engine, as you bin most of the stock turbo stuff. i would NOT lower CR with a thick gasket, buy some proper forged lower compression pistons. using a thick gasket will ruin the squish band area, and that, IMO, is very important on a turbo engine that you want to run at a reasonably streetable CR (say 8.5 to 1). You may need to run either wasted spark or coil on plugs, as the disi is a bit of an anachronism these days. Given decent pistons the stock engine SHOULD be ok to about 550 HP, mapped properly, with suitable cams.

So are you saying that if you built a turbo engine from an N/A, it is better than strting with a TT Chris?

I am saying it would perhaps be cheaper if you were building a really trick one, as you'd bin all the TT parts on a turbo engine, the pistons, cams, rods, et cetera.

Crank and block is fundamentally the same, the rest are replacement items when building an engine anyways. If you can rebuild an engine but don't know how to drill a hole for the turbo oil feed then better just don't start at all

And oil squirters? Who cares.

Chris Wilson: Thanks for the answer. I`ve seen 2JZ na engine for sale for 1000$, and 2JZ turbo for 2200$. If I buy the NA engine I will have to buy turbo manifold, forged piston and maybee cams? And on topp of that I dont have a turbo to sell, with I can to if i buy the 2JZ turbo engine.

Since I can use the stock engine parts in the 2JZ turbo engine to at least 700-800 hp, maybee this engine after all will bee the cheapest one? Since I dont hvae to buy so many parts to it?

Stock internals, 700 to 800 BHp???? Rearrange the following: "drugs on what on are you????" There is no way that stock internals on a TT will give more than a few moments reliable power at over 700 BHP. If you are in to drag racing, maybe, just maybe, you will do a few runs at those figures, but at WOT for any sort of extended periods, you need forged pitons and other internals, in my opinion.

I always say.... If you want to do something big....do it right

No point in scrimping on cost getting a TT engine to get it run 700-800bhp it wont last long perhaps seconds and yes you will loose all the money you put into it.

If you want an engine to run 700-800bhp put the money into it dont bother scrimping. If you cant do it cos you cant afford it then dont do it cos you will loose the money you spent when it goes pop and throws the con rods through the block.

A Standard TT engine may reliably run 400-500bhp without many problems but not 700-800bhp.

Have you guys never seen a 700-800hp 2JV-GTE engine with stock internals? I know about several here in Norway and Sweden!

Peter Blach have a 2JZ with stock rods and pistons, check out the this page:

http://www.shpracingheads.com/peter.html

Have you guys never seen a 700-800hp 2JV-GTE engine with stock internals? I know about several here in Norway and Sweden!

 

Peter Blach have a 2JZ with stock rods and pistons, check out the this page:

 

http://www.shpracingheads.com/peter.html

Show me one with some proper engine dyno print outs, not chassis dyno, and one that runs that sort of power on track, not a 10 second run on a drag strip, then I'll be impressed, if still sceptical.

Chris Wilson: It`s okey to bee sceptical:)

Rickard Cornacchini from Täby in Sweden builded a Supra back in 2001, the same year he did 10,41s on the strip (car weight: 1700kg). The year after he sold the Supra to a guy here in Norway. Since this year the Supra has been used on the race track in the summer very often, every year! The only problem I saw he had, was that the cooling water boiled once:d

Buy the way, I`m most interested to know how much the stock bottom can handle (rod, piston etc.) and not the head, camshafts etc.

What do you think about this one?

http://www.vipimports.com/images/carsforsale/98_MCQS/053.jpg