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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Stabiliser bar links


merckx
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Would they make new ones longer to compensate for changes in the stiffness of the suspension that have happened over time.

 

Maybe the new ones improve or rectify things.

 

 

Yes they were £46.95 each inclusive . :eek: :scare:

 

They gave me a discount of 10%, so £42.26 each inclusive.

 

Thanks for checking the part number Colsoop, may aswell put them on then! :)

 

 

I'm sure Nic could get them cheaper but I couldn't wait.

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changing your front shocks? made a mess of those nasty hex-slotted bolts?

I did mine today (front.. about to start on the rears) and I didn't bother with the stabiliser bar links. I just pushed the lower control-arm down a bit and the new shock went in. Probably not the best way to treat the lower control-arm bushes, but it worked ;)

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I recently upgraded my suspension which resulted in terrible knocking sounds from the front end when travelling slowly over bumpy surfaces. I also ordered the drop links shown in the first pic and it completely cured the noises. Had to use an angle grinder and a very steady hand to remove the old ones though.

 

I ordered the drop links from 'cheap toyota parts' for £34 each inc. They were genuine parts by the way so don't let the name put anyone off, even I was suprised when they arrived in toyota packaging with the correct part no's on.

 

As far as the difference in length is concerned it could be to do with the fact that the j-specs tend to be a tad lower the uk cars, certainly if it came with billies on. So there may be a differnece in uk and j-spec drop links, although my car is now on springs from a vvti supra and the drop links went on fine and the handling is great.

 

Hope this is of some help. :)

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I recently upgraded my suspension which resulted in terrible knocking sounds from the front end when travelling slowly over bumpy surfaces. I also ordered the drop links shown in the first pic and it completely cured the noises. Had to use an angle grinder and a very steady hand to remove the old ones though.

 

I ordered the drop links from 'cheap toyota parts' for £34 each inc. They were genuine parts by the way so don't let the name put anyone off, even I was suprised when they arrived in toyota packaging with the correct part no's on.

 

As far as the difference in length is concerned it could be to do with the fact that the j-specs tend to be a tad lower the uk cars, certainly if it came with billies on. So there may be a differnece in uk and j-spec drop links, although my car is now on springs from a vvti supra and the drop links went on fine and the handling is great.

 

Hope this is of some help. :)

Just replacing mine because the rubber boots are a mess, I've been getting this loud metallic noise which appears to be coming from each side of the car at the front when I brake, hopefully it might cure this aswell.

 

The new links will go on okay, just strange to find that they're longer than the old ones.

 

Never heard of 'cheap toyota parts', Is this the place in the States?

 

http://www.toyotapartscheap.com/

 

Cheers

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I've been getting this loud metallic noise which appears to be coming from each side of the car at the front when I brake, hopefully it might cure this aswell.

 

hmm I've been getting this for quite a while. It almost sounds as though the disc is clunking against the hub-nuts (whatever they're called).

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It's very embarassing, sounds crap! :(

 

yep. I think we're definately talking about the same thing. I am hoping my new front control-arms will sort it, but looking at the current ones I think not.

 

Please let me know if you find the cause and I'll do the same. I have been considering the possibility that one of the brake caliper pistons might be siezed, so that braking is pushing the disc sideways. Don't know how likely that is, but I don't know how to examine the calipers yet.

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I think I'm right in saying that having longer or shorter links won't make any difference to the suspension, because the anti-roll bar is there to resist torsion - i.e. twisting caused by the suspension on one side being compressed while the other side isn't. It rotates freely if both sides are moved up or down, so having slightly longer links will just mean it's rotated up a bit more than before at rest if you see what I mean.

 

Dunno why they've made them longer though.

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I think I'm right in saying that having longer or shorter links won't make any difference to the suspension, because the anti-roll bar is there to resist torsion - i.e. twisting caused by the suspension on one side being compressed while the other side isn't. It rotates freely if both sides are moved up or down, so having slightly longer links will just mean it's rotated up a bit more than before at rest if you see what I mean.

 

Dunno why they've made them longer though.

Yes, I see what you mean.

 

Good explanation, all clear now!

 

Cheers :)

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I've just finished putting on an upper control arm , easy enough.

 

The rubber boot was split with grease coming out.

 

yeah I had to remove the UCA to fit the new shocks today, and it was surprisingly easy, although I didn't disconnect the balljoint.

 

I hope the LCAs are just as easy!

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  • 1 month later...
It's very embarassing, sounds crap! :(

 

Have you sorted your clunk yet Merckx?

 

I have just discovered that the balljoint on my LCA has nearly 2cm of vertical play. Jacked the car up and the OSF wheel can be lifted up and down about 1.5cm on the balljoint :eek:

 

Wonder if that's anything to do with the clunking noise.

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The clonking noise when slowing down hasn't come back since it went away almost 2 months ago after replacing the upper left contol arm and the stabiliser bar links.

 

It now clonks a bit when I reverse slowly out of a parking bay then stop! :shrug:

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