Trans Oil Gauge sensor mounting point?

I'm thinking of using a DEFI gauge to monitor transmission temps. I have a remote transmission cooler with integrated electric fan.

Anybody suggest where best to tap in the DEFI gauge's temp sensor? ie inline at the cooler or in the actual transmission housing?

i got a standard 1/2 bsp black iron tee with hose connectors and the temp sensor mounted in the top of the tee, the reason i used such a relatively big tee was to make sure the sensor did not obstruct the flow and make sure it had a good flow round it, have a look at a local hydraulic stockist they have loads of bits, i mounted it on the inlet to the cooler housed where the old smic used to be and it works fine

I was thinking of fitting a trans temp gauge too but then someone said to me, "so what is too high"? And i realised I didnt have a clue. So what is considered to be OK and what is high?

from the research i have done on this 50-80 is optimum, since going to a fluidyne and an external trans cooler i have found the temp gauge invaluable as it highlighted in traffic i was up at 110 degrees which is way to high, i fitted a fan and all is now cool

The thermostat on the fan for the Derale coolers (Summit Racing) is set to kick in at 82 C. Anything above 100 is badish I thought.

I can see how the temps go up in traffic. I don't yet have a lock up switch for my 3800 TC and I have to rev the nuts off it to get it moving.

I can see how the temps go up in traffic. I don't yet have a lock up switch for my 3800 TC and I have to rev the nuts off it to get it moving.

Thats the downside of the hi stall eh? Gets on my tits too and the lock up switch wont help that at all

So Derale recommend that you mount a sensor in the actual tranny oil pan/sump. Is that what I should do learned folks?

http://www.derale.com/instructions/13709transtempgauge.pdf

I guess that means yet another flippin expensive tranny oil change again as well.

In the pan is good, yes. No need to change oil if you are clean and careful (as all good boys should be.... )

Great, good news thank you Chris. You were one of the very few I was fishing for a response from.

All the best

Justin

Thats the downside of the hi stall eh? Gets on my tits too and the lock up switch wont help that at all

whoa there CJ i,me looking at uprated trans and a high stall converter and thought the lock up switch solved the reving the tits round town business, your obviously talking from experience hear are you saying it wont help and if not what do you use the lock up for, just when you think you know whats going on someone allways drops a bombshell and you realise you dont:(

whoa there CJ i,me looking at uprated trans and a high stall converter and thought the lock up switch solved the reving the tits round town business, your obviously talking from experience hear are you saying it wont help and if not what do you use the lock up for, just when you think you know whats going on someone allways drops a bombshell and you realise you dont:(

The hi stall allows the engine to rev higher than normal before moving along - thats why it revs so high around town. It also allows boost to be built quicker therefore alleviating lag (to a certain extent). The problem is, around town you dont want to go hareing off at wild boost and therefore you are revving just to get going slowly.

The lock up switch is nothing to do with around town driving per se. You would use the lock up switch to hold the car in "top" gear to stop it changing up and down quicker than a whores knickers when you press the throttle. It is normally used for motorway driving so that it doesnt change down when you press to quietly over take something. You can also use it for changing up when going along rather than revving up the range.

HTH

The hi stall allows the engine to rev higher than normal before moving along - thats why it revs so high around town. It also allows boost to be built quicker therefore alleviating lag (to a certain extent). The problem is, around town you dont want to go hareing off at wild boost and therefore you are revving just to get going slowly.

 

The lock up switch is nothing to do with around town driving per se. You would use the lock up switch to hold the car in "top" gear to stop it changing up and down quicker than a whores knickers when you press the throttle. It is normally used for motorway driving so that it doesnt change down when you press to quietly over take something. You can also use it for changing up when going along rather than revving up the range.

 

HTH

thanks for clearing that up CJ so if you have a 3600 stall what sought of revs would that require to get it moving (surely not 3600) i only have a T61 thats starting to make boost at 2800 would a 3200 converter be ok or a waste of time, is there a rule of thumb when selecting the stall on a converter, are the higher stalls for people running bigger turbos on an auto, any advise would be greatfully recieved

A true lock up converter locks solid at certain engine RPM's, road speed and load conditions, to make the car more economical. It can't lock up at idle or the car would lurch off as if it were a manual and your foot slipped off the clutch. Hi stall convertors are a PITA on the road, especially ones with over 2000 RPM stall speed. Just try revving the engine to whatever stall speed convertor you fancy, it's like that EVERY time you want to move off. Drag race only, IMO.

A true lock up converter locks solid at certain engine RPM's, road speed and load conditions, to make the car more economical. It can't lock up at idle or the car would lurch off as if it were a manual and your foot slipped off the clutch. Hi stall convertors are a PITA on the road, especially ones with over 2000 RPM stall speed. Just try revving the engine to whatever stall speed convertor you fancy, it's like that EVERY time you want to move off. Drag race only, IMO.

thanks for that Chris i'me rapidly going off the idea of a high stall as i do a lot more cruising at low speed than drag racing

thanks for clearing that up CJ so if you have a 3600 stall what sought of revs would that require to get it moving (surely not 3600) i only have a T61 thats starting to make boost at 2800 would a 3200 converter be ok or a waste of time, is there a rule of thumb when selecting the stall on a converter, are the higher stalls for people running bigger turbos on an auto, any advise would be greatfully recieved

Paul if we ever cross paths at a meet etc I'll take you out in my 3800 hi stall. It is very hard to expalin in words exactly what it drives like and all the pros and cons.

These were factors for getting mine:

1. First turbo lag was v bad (big hybrids)

2. Sick of being beaten off the lights by saxos, etc

3. Not my everyday driver

4. Drag racing is a hobby and I want under 12 seconds.

5. I saw that Monkey Mark got 11.9 with one at Santa Pod!

Basically now I drive round everywhere on the second turbo. This sin't for everybody but for me is hilarious. You do need to be careful in the wet though as I nearly wiped out 2 cyclists the other day when I had a tank slapper (fishtailed) on the slippy winter roads.

I would say if you haven't got turbo lag issues then you might not need/want a hi stall but don't put iff off without trying it.

In the pan is good, yes. No need to change oil if you are clean and careful (as all good boys should be.... )

Chris how do folks drill a hole into a full oil pan without having it all leak out and getting swarf through the new hole?

Paul if we ever cross paths at a meet etc I'll take you out in my 3800 hi stall. It is very hard to expalin in words exactly what it drives like and all the pros and cons.

 

These were factors for getting mine:

 

1. First turbo lag was v bad (big hybrids)

2. Sick of being beaten off the lights by saxos, etc

3. Not my everyday driver

4. Drag racing is a hobby and I want under 12 seconds.

5. I saw that Monkey Mark got 11.9 with one at Santa Pod!

 

Basically now I drive round everywhere on the second turbo. This sin't for everybody but for me is hilarious. You do need to be careful in the wet though as I nearly wiped out 2 cyclists the other day when I had a tank slapper (fishtailed) on the slippy winter roads.

 

I would say if you haven't got turbo lag issues then you might not need/want a hi stall but don't put iff off without trying it.

Thanks for that Justin, i think my minds made up i do have a bit of lag away from the lights so i think i'll go with the 3200 and see what its like

Chris how do folks drill a hole into a full oil pan without having it all leak out and getting swarf through the new hole?

I'd expect that they drain the oil and remove it.

would it not be easier to take sump pan off. then do all drilling work on a bench.the sump pan is held on with about 15 bolts and uses a paste type gasket.i took mine off spare gearbox and had it sent to australia for a custom extended alloy pan making up with temp sender and gauge but have not chased it up.it was so i could have more oil in system if it would help.

i had run with a 3800tc and also using a 4000tc and i did not mind it on normal driving on stock twins.i had just had done a new oil change on gearbox with new 4000tc.good to know you dont have to bin fresh oil with about 600 miles use on my oil.

In the pan is good, yes. No need to change oil if you are clean and careful (as all good boys should be.... )

Sorry guys I missunderstood what Chris meant by this. He means drain the fluid and re-use it. I thought he had some special Chris Wilson magic way of tapping a hole into the full sump. I'll get my coat. What a tw*t.

Sorry guys I missunderstood what Chris meant by this. He means drain the fluid and re-use it. I thought he had some special Chris Wilson magic way of tapping a hole into the full sump. I'll get my coat. What a tw*t.

This is actually possible, although not recommended. You TIG weld an internally threaded ring of the same thread as the sensors onto the sump pan, using a modified, hardened bolt with a very fast helix and point cut onto the end, a bit like a funny drill, you then screw the bolt in which cuts a hole in the tin. The slow penetration (ooh err, missus...) should stop swarf entering the pan. You remove and quickly screw in the sensor. If you have ever added a spur on a water pipe using a self cutting fitting you will see the principle is similar.

this all sounds a sh*t load of work guys would'nt it be easier to put a tee in like i did, i can supply a pic if anyones interested

This is actually possible, although not recommended. You TIG weld an internally threaded ring of the same thread as the sensors onto the sump pan, using a modified, hardened bolt with a very fast helix and point cut onto the end, a bit like a funny drill, you then screw the bolt in which cuts a hole in the tin. The slow penetration (ooh err, missus...) should stop swarf entering the pan. You remove and quickly screw in the sensor. If you have ever added a spur on a water pipe using a self cutting fitting you will see the principle is similar.

See I'm not going mad!

Chris Wilson magic right there!!

this all sounds a sh*t load of work guys would'nt it be easier to put a tee in like i did, i can supply a pic if anyones interested

I would go for sump for most accurate reading of tranny oil temp. Interested in pic though

It's only a few minutes work to drop the sump, so I am NOT recommending the trickery, just bored and thought I'd suggest a way it COULD be done! A T in the cooler line is fine, too, so long as the probe tip doesn't inhibit oil flow.