Chris Wilson Suspension

Chris,

I think one of your top notch suspension set-up's will be next on my list of "performance mods" (As in not repairing or putting anything else right).

I've tried a search and found many references to, but no actual specifications of your susp set-up. I'd like to ask a few questions about your kit, which may be of interest to other members who may be interested in your suspension kit as well.

I understand that it uses revalved Koni's. Could you explain a little (without giving your trade secrets away of course!) of how you modify them and to what spec?

Also, does the suspension set-up include bushes? If not would you recommend replacing/upgrading these at the same time?

Does the koni's require top pillow mounts? If not is this something you would recommend?

Also does the suspension set-up include anti-roll bars or strut braces? If not would you recommend having one fitted? And if so what sort of diameters/torsional strength?

I understand the springs lower the suspension, could you also tell me how much the drop is?

Obviously fitting the kit would require a re-alignment. Is this a service that you offer? If so what kind of geometry do you suggest?

Sorry to ask so many questions all in one go.

Just to let you know the car has done 127K ish km, and is a daily driver, but get's driven fairly hard every now and then. (Probably just like 99% of all other members cars)

Many thanks

Tony License

Tony,

I asked the same questions via email before I got the CW suspension:

The CW suspension is now based on the Bilstein shocks as Koni do not so the units that Chris used anymore.

Springs are custom and it's a CW custom Geo setup too, that he does in his workshop.

No sway bars, top mounts, bushes or strut bars

It made a HUGE difference to the UK suspension that I had and I love it.

Well, I only had 2 days with it before my current situation but, I remember it well :flame Dev

Money well spent

It comprises revalved to my spec Bilstein dampers (4), and 4 custom made, progressively wound springs. car is lowered 15 to 18 mm at the front and 10 mm at the rear, more than this and the kinematics of the suspension go to pot, and many custom made bits at huge expense would be needed. I don't change bushes or anti roll bars, bush changes will make the car harsher, which most people don't want, although i am toying with offering these later this year. Fitting them will be on an "as long as it takes" basis only, getting susoension arms off old cars can be unpredictable. Nor do i change the anti roll bars, stiffer bars can give very bad ride over single wheel bumps. I won't be offering these as TRD already make an excelent kit, and Whiteline make (in my opinion) a cheap and nasty one, so both ends of the market are covered.

The geo is then reset. I have a road set up, that 99% of people have, and a track day set up, that I alone used. The track day set up is excellent for ON TRACK DAY tyre wear, turn in and grip, but the car will be edgey over ruts and white lines on normal roads, and suffer poor inside edge trye wear. The total cost is 1200 UK pounds, no VAT to pay, and only extra should be if any suspension adjusters are seized beyond normal means of freeing them up.

I can get single replacements for worn or damaged shocks or springs, but if you damage a spring I guess we'd be discussing this when we both reach the "other side"

Many thanks for the prompt reply Chris.

The reason why I asked about new bushes, wasn't necessary as a performance increase, but more as a stock replacement. My car is now getting on for being 11 years old. I doubt very much if either the bushes have ever been changed or that they are in as good a condition as when the car rolled off the production line.

Unfotunately I have a very perculiar tyre/wheel combination at the moment, consisting of 18x8.5 wheels and 225(?)/45/18 tyres all round (don't ask it's a v-e-r-y long story) I'm looking to replace these ASAP with a more sensible configuration. Without the want of turning this into a "what wheel size" thread, what wheels/tyre size would you recommend to best suit your suspension? If I decided to have a "widebody" kit fitted, obviously as wide a tyre as possible is aesthetically desirable, but would this be in compromise to the best "total suspension set-up"? Or would you say that for the type of application I mentioned, it wouldn't make too large a difference?

Apologies for all the questions.

Regards

Tony

I see very few MKIV's needing bushes, although we will be seeing more and more as the cars get older. rear top wishbone bushes and front lower wishbone bushes seem the first to go. I will perhaps make front lower bushes in a harder material. At the moment, AFAIK, the rear ones are only available WITH THE WISHBONES from Toyota, at some considerable cost. Same with stock front ones...

I prefer the car on 17 inch rims as that allows a stock tyre profile. If you insist on 18 inch I prefer the lexus OE multispoke rims, they are the correct offset, correct spigot hole diameter, forged alloy, and the very best quality, with a reasonable weight. I don't know, nor do i want to know about cars on 19 inch or even bigger.

Nor do i really want to get into wide body kits. I see no point in it from a performance point of view, and that's where my interest lies.

Chris,

I understand what your saying re 19" rims and larger. Not in my plans you'll be pleased to hear.

I think I'm going to have to go 18" though as the brake kit I'm looking at I'm pretty sure won't fit under 17's.

With regards to tyre widths...

I see your viewpoint with regards to bodykits. However it is something that I intend to do. (after all, the car is used (currently) only on the road, and there has to be a compromise with aesthetics against performance)

The aesthetics here do have an influence on the wheel widths. (As mentioned possibly at the detriment of performance)

An 18x12 rim for the rear has been recommended to me by one of the traders on here. The question is could you set up the suspension kit to provide the best performance, for road use with that sized rim? (I'm not sure of the offset of the rim yet, but will try to get that info soon)

Again sorry for all the questions. But as you would probably recommend, it's important to get a set-up that's fit for purpose.

Regards

Tony License

Originally posted by Chris Wilson

Nor do i change the anti roll bars, stiffer bars can give very bad ride over single wheel bumps. I won't be offering these as TRD already make an excelent kit, and Whiteline make (in my opinion) a cheap and nasty one, so both ends of the market are covered.

Hello Chris,

Which TRD kit would you recommend as there are two, one set is 27% stiffer front and rear the other is 45% stiffer on the front and 50% stiffer on the rear.

Kind Regards

Wez

Wez: Road usage i would leave as stock ARB wise, or at the most go for the softer bars. For a pure track day car you would need the siffest and some different springs and shocks to my normal kit, but the car would be dreadful on normal roads.

Originally posted by TLicense

Chris,

 

I understand what your saying re 19" rims and larger. Not in my plans you'll be pleased to hear.

 

I think I'm going to have to go 18" though as the brake kit I'm looking at I'm pretty sure won't fit under 17's.

 

With regards to tyre widths...

 

I see your viewpoint with regards to bodykits. However it is something that I intend to do. (after all, the car is used (currently) only on the road, and there has to be a compromise with aesthetics against performance)

The aesthetics here do have an influence on the wheel widths. (As mentioned possibly at the detriment of performance)

An 18x12 rim for the rear has been recommended to me by one of the traders on here. The question is could you set up the suspension kit to provide the best performance, for road use with that sized rim? (I'm not sure of the offset of the rim yet, but will try to get that info soon)

 

Again sorry for all the questions. But as you would probably recommend, it's important to get a set-up that's fit for purpose.

 

Regards

 

Tony License

I can set it up with very little rear camber, and plenty of rear toe, but at the end of the day the car will still drive like a dog on those size rims. Best i could do would be to try and minimize rear self steer. It will probably understeer like hell too.