Possible clutch / fly wheel problem?

Hi,

Im just wondering if anyone else could suggest what the probelm is, based on the following syptoms.

Basically when I change gear and put my foot down the revs shoot 500 - 800 rpm (dependant on how hard I put my foot down) and then the car starts to pick up speed. The other thing is that the bite on the clutch is extremely high up.

Now at first I thought the clutch was going but then Cable pointed out that when this happens you usually pull away ok and then the revs shoot up as the clutch slips.

I think it will be going down to Mark at Phoenix in Watford soon to get this sorted but I just wanted to see if others have had this problem, and if so what was the cause?

Thanks

Mark

could it be loss in traction ?? anyway if need a new clutch give me a shout i can get them for good prices ...

try going into 5th or 6th and slip the clutch see what happens but be careful with back end

Sorry to hijack, but can you PM me some prices for clutches and flywheels please Jurgen.

Im pretty sure your clutch is on the way out, get it changes ASAP. And as Jurgen says be VERY careful, mine is slipping at the moment when you get to full boost so i dont drive at WOT..if i do and i hit full boost the clutch slips, then bites at about 6000rpm as it grips (torque curve coming back down), putting me into a mental sideways drift!!!

Sorry to hijack, but can you PM me some prices for clutches and flywheels please Jurgen.

hi mate i dont really deal with parts its too much hassle lol, and as mr hanky is a customer i will try and help out..but what sort of clutch you after ????

I think that you forgot to mention that it only slips initially even on light throttle then grips and doesn't slip again even when the boost kicks in all the way up the rev range. With the high bite point could it not be the clutch pedal needs adjusting to actually fully disengage properly?

Have you tried pulling off then putting it in 5th and putting your foot down? if it revs and goes no where the clutch is shot, if it pulls the clutch is fine

It needs a clutch, maybe a flywheel too, if it's marked up, the stock flywheels cannot be refaced satisfactorily. See below for the one I have made and recommend:

Available now: Uprated MKIV TT clutches.

I use the stock, brand new driven plate, as it is correctly

balanced, doesn't judder and will hold all but mega torque

highly modded engines or cars used for drag racing.

I modify a stock brand new cover to give more clamping force.

The reason I tooled up to do these is some of the aftermarket

US clutches I have fitted SEEM to be built from used cover

assemblies with reground friction surfaces, and a stronger

spring. I have had hellish trouble getting these to fully

release, because due to this seemingly thinner cast iron

friction face, the geometry of the clutch goes to pot, and

being a pull type clutch (the hydraulics pull the bearing

away from the engine, rather than the more normal push type)

it is a lot harder to effect a cure.

For 475 pounds, no VAT to pay, you get a brand new driven

plate, a brand new modded cover, and a brand new release

bearing. I would rather fit myself so any complaints are down

to me, I see too many clutches juddering due to someone without

the right gear allowing the gearbox input shaft to bend the driven

plateas the boxes' weight is allowed to swing on the plate centre,

or clutches fitted to patently buggered flywheels. However, I might be

persuaded to sell to people using bona fide fitters to install one.

Toyota use a dual mass flywheel (the flywheel is in 2 parts, an inner and

outer assembly, damped in the middle) which is now showing signs

of wear causing a lot of rattle when idling or on very light

throttle openings. For God knows what reason they are charging

about 270 quid for a new one, they look more like they should be

over 500 to me, but don't say anything :-) So if the flywheels

old enough or abused enough to be scored it's best replaced.

If pressed I will sell the clutch kit, which includes a new release

bearing for a 3rd party to fit.

Fitting by myself will cost 175. Both prices do not incur any VAT,

Reply privately if interested please. [email protected]

Hi,

Thanks for the help people. Having spoke to a guy at Thor who had similar problems, I am going to try and get it adjusted first. If this fixes it then great, if not then its only an hours labour so not a great loss.

If that doesnt work then im goiing to keep the car off the road for a month until next pay day

Thanks again

Mark