How-To Remove & Reseal Sump Pan

This little job can catch you out in many curious ways, please pay great attention to every detail of this apparently simple job.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?323853-Resealing-Transmission-Sump-Pan

The best way to do this is similar to Mr T; clean both faces with brake cleaner, then run a continuous 5mm bead of RTV around the centre of the pan sealing face routing inside the bolt holes and torque the bolts up to 6.5 ft lb.

The above system is perfect when the transmission is out of the car and upside-down, however, when it's the right way up under the car, take care to keep the transmission sealing face free of ATF creeping down from above.

The slightest drip or smear of ATF and the RTV will not stick and consequently, the joint will leak.

Tip: Drain sump and allow to stand overnight, then there will be no fluid left in the clutches to run down inside of casting.

I have learned the hard way that transmission sumps become addicted to gaskets!

The pan is pressed from light gauge steel and the 6MT bolts with a squidgy gasket underneath, 6.5 ft lb pulls the pan around the bolt hole into the gasket.

This means that the originally flat surface around the perimeter of the pan has become a rollercoaster by a millimetre or two between the bolt holes.

The gasket however, will seal up nicely, however, the problem may surface next time the sump is removed.

Gaskets come in both rubber and cork flavours, with the cork version being twice as thick as the rubber.

These different gasket thicknesses cause different size rollercoasters and you will find that you can't use a rubber gasket after a cork one has been used, but you can use a cork one after a rubber one has been used. If you are not aware of this, the job can become a proper wind-up.

Do yourself a favour and don't use either of them, use gasket sealant as OE.

If you need to drop the sump, let the car stand overnight with the drain plug out, then when the transmission is opened it will be a lot drier inside and a good dabbing around with an absorbent cloth should allow the faces to be then cleaned with solvent to be perfectly free of ATF and with care, RTV only will do a good job.

I recommend using RTV only and keeping the mating faces straight, however, if a gasket "must" be used, use a rubber one the first time, which could then be followed by a cork one the second time and then either a special extra thick cork one or a new sump the third time.

Start the bolts with your fingers to confirm not cross threaded.

Torque sump bolts up to 6.5 ftlb. ONLY

It is very easy to strip the threads out of the transmission casting.

Don't guess.

Loctite SI 5660 is good stuff.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-5699-Premium-Silicone-Grey-Gasket-Maker-Sealant-80ml-Metal-Plastic-/191428349901?hash=item2c9204cfcd

Service Items @ Sensible Prices here.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.p...128&do=discuss

How to Prolong Life of A340E Transmission here.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=225&do=discuss

Gaskets cause damage to sump, cork gaskets are worse than rubber and a cork gasket with RTV is the worst of all.

Sump after cork gasket with RTV

A straight edge shows the reallity

RTV lubricates the thick squidgy cork gasket and the sump pulls into and splits it

For whatever reason you might think that it needs a gasket, do not also use RTV

TOP TIP

The little MT6 x 1.0 sump bolts often seize into the aluminium casting and can easily be sheared off, creating a PITA job to fix.

At least 24 hours before removing an A340E sump, squib WD40 or similar onto these open threads in the aluminium casting.

I use my torque-wrench set @ 8 ftlb to start undoing them, if there is a problem it will go click instead of snapping the bolt.

If it does click, free up the bolt by heating the casting around the thread with a gas blowlamp.

(If you don't do this, 3 or 4 threads at the end of the bolt will become bound with aluminium and destroy the remainder of the thread in casting as the bolt is undone.)

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Top Tip

Treat yourself to a sump removal tool, one of these will reduce the awkward task of breaking the pan seal down to a doddle of a job.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Sump-Separator-VS664/291700858087?var=590728412969&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D45565%26meid%3D6aecafeffcf441d49568d7751a95d27e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D140703714130&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851