Line-Pressure Feed-Cable

It is VERY IMPORTANT that this cable functions as designed.

I have seen Hybrid installations where this cable has been ignored completely, this results with the pressure being too low to grip the clutches and consequently, burn out.

I have also seen installations where this cable is locked open at full pressure, this results with aggressive and damaging jumping when engaging D and lots of wheel-spin off the line.

It's not rocket science, it's a cable!

With an N/A auto throttle body it is plug & play, if using a T.T. inlet manifold, use a Soarer 1J-GTE throttle body which has the correct cable ramp and also plug & play.

Swapping engines, swapping transmissions and/or polishing or painting throttle-bodies entails removal of the cables from the throttle-body which leads to a reassembly mistake that I have come across several times.

The favourite mistake is to forget the lower/left ramp and to fit throttle and line-pressure cables onto the right/top two positions.

On Supra N/A auto & Soarer 1J-GTE throttle-bodies there are 3 cable ramps.

Left - Transmission line-pressure.

Centre - Throttle.

Right - Cruise-control.

Reassembly in an incorrect configuration causes several different combinations of malfunctions which could render the car unsafe to drive or/and destroy the transmission.

Stock N/A auto throttle body cable ramps. Left, line feed cable - Centre, throttle cable - Right, cruise-control.

(Soarer 1JZ-GTE T.B. locates the cables in same positions.)

Should your t.b not have a ramp for this cable, alternatively, using nipple and trans mount from original cable & bicycle cable-components it can be connected directly to the accelerator pedal

Supra acc pedal has a use-able hole 20mm below stock cable mount

Hole drilled in bulkhead 20mm below stock-cable & new-cable fitted (18mm would be a better match with throttle cable mount bracket inside)

A little fettering with a Dremmel, this extra cable then cleared the bracket

Using rubber-stopper from GE throttle-cable, a washer & terminal block-connector, job done

Double post.

At the pedal-end of the cable-core, run-solder along it, from where the cable-block will cramp onto it, to where you plan to cut it.

Do this before you cut it, the cable will then not deform under the screws and your end will never fray.

By feel, at zero pedal-depression, set the cable to; "only just not doing anything" and the big squidgy N/A throttle-cable rubber-stopper (or similar), will allow for any slight difference there might be in the two-cables travels at WOT?

Confirm that accelerator-pedal has full-travel without putting strain on the line-feed cable, you really don't want the job of finding and re-soldering the nipple back on at the other end.