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Breaking the 120 MPH barrier


Paul Booth
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Quote: from Paul Booth on 10:39 pm on Aug. 15, 2001[br]I drove back along a nice windy, quiet, 'A' road for about 15 miles. I got the impression the car was always in the right gear, there wasn't the same hesitation on kick-down

 

Paul,

 

Good to know you've made some progress. I'll definitely be taking my IP out when I get my car to check on the conversion job. I might even try to get hold of a UK speedo from a scrapper so I can remove the converter completely (is it a straight swap??).

 

I've been wondering about the kickdown operation myself. I drove a converted auto (NA) Supraa few monts back and the kickdown operation seemed downright weird. However when I test drove my car (pre-conversion) it seemed a bit hesitant too. I assumed that is just how they are.

 

Please could you do me a favour and describe the "feel" and operation of the kickdown in detail so I can compare it to my own experiences in the two different cars? E-mail me off the list if you like.

 

Your cruise control speed range sounds normal for a Japanese car (trips out at approx 70mph).

 

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Paul...........

 

You have the "stop at 70 mph" problem on your cruise. You need to go to the cruise ECU, snip the speed-signal wire and connect the cruise speed-signal input to a five-eighths divided signal and it will work from about 40mph to 120 mph.

 

I'm glad you've made progress. There should be NO hesitation at all on kickdown. It should immediately kick down and go like stink.

 

Okay, so could you please recap for me. What speed signals were the various devices receiving, i.e. speedo, odo, ECU, etc.

 

Yours,

J

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Ash,

 

Please understand this is surmise as the converter was a bit of an octopus and the loom had cuts and splices everywhere (including the time-of-day clock - seriously).

 

Originally at SVA (by parties unknown):

 

1. Converter power spliced into clock permanent power feed; earth spliced into combination meter ground (white/black - forget which circuit)

2. Sensor No. 1 signal to speedo cut, signal fed to converter input; converter output 1a fed to speedo;

3. sensor signal to odo cut & converter output 1b fed to odo input;

4. odo output line cut & converter output 2 fed to EMU/PPS/Cruise/etc. (can't tel if they cut anywhere else yet).

 

At JIC:

 

1. Jap odo removed and replaced with UK spec counter

2. converter output 1b removed and taped up; sensor no. 1 signal re-attached to odo input

 

I have to assume the converter output 1(a & b) are 8/5 pulse rates but what rate converter output 2 is producing is anyone's guess until I can get it to a sig-gen and scope (I know, I know, and I already thought about mailing it to you to have a look. Mine went years ago when I stopped being a hardware engineer and committed to software).

 

Anyway, it's now 100% stock as far as I can see. Jap speedo and UK odo. I know how I'm going to convert the speedo, I've had a look and modded the flexi-pcb on the back already. I just need a +ve and -ve on the combo meter which will stand the load of the 68HC711 and peripherals without sinking (it wouldn't see the load of a PIC chip, I might do that yet but I need the pulse shape profile first.)

 

 

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Yo kin av this'un Ash.

 

As per their usual standards, the bloody excellent people at JIC have offered me one of their pulse converters at a price not to be sniffed at.

 

That makes this converter a novelty for benchtop amusement. For the moment, I'm going to assume that when I get the HKS SLD fitted, the car still buggers about at 120MPH. Therefore I'm going to be popping down for a mutual head scratching session and I can bring it down with me.

 

If, please God, the HKS SLD makes all the bogey men go away, I can still post it.

 

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In the thread on traction control, Ash said....

 

I was not aware of any impact on the gearbox in fitting this mod. As far as I know, the engine power is reduced during shifts by retarding the timing for an instant.

 

Aha a clue! Switch off the slip control.

 

I'll try that, thinks I; so I did.

 

My usually slightly lumpy gear changes (it's an automatic, before you start) are suddenly smooth as a babies bottom, up and down through the box.

 

It now changes down without so much as a flicker, whereas before, it jerked slightly. Difficult to say going up the box but I'll try it more tomorrow.

 

Does this clue give anyone any ideas?

 

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Spent most of the day in the car, popping here and there, with TRAC on and off. Took chum (body-shop-man) along for objective assessment. He agrees, much, *much* smoother changes with TRAC off.

 

Also noticed a new problem: Overdrive OFF lamp flashing on/off.

Using his influence within his organisation, we took the car into the Toyota main agent to let them plug their diagnostic tool in.

Code 42, which basically means I haven't found all the wiring f**k-ups yet on the speed sensor.

 

BTW, discovered that if you can't get all this very expensive diagnostic kit to talk in Japanese, the overdrive lamp can be used as a diagnostic aid if you have a short piece of wire to stick into the big socket under the bonnet. It flashes the error code on the overdrive lamp for each ECU as you select them with the piece of wire.

Saves on umpty thousands of pounds of plug-in diagnostic tool.

 

Oh yes (cough) I also came away with a 3" thick Toyota JZA80 Repair Manual. I did contribute £25 to the coffee fund, but I thought it seemed a good deal.

 

If I get time, I'm going to look at making a connector to connect the diagnostic port to a laptop. I haven't had time to see if the interface is described in detail yet, so I'll be looking with great interest.

 

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Well this did have oily hand prints on the outside cover which I had to remove with Flash, it's not brand spanking new; OK the pages are perfect ("we don't see many Supras y'know" ).

 

One reason I was able to acquire it is that they normally only keep one per model and, for some reason they didn't understand, they had more than one for the Supra. Apparently, this book normally costs £150 (according to auto-electrician) but I thought he was BS'ing me.

 

Much as I'd like to acquire a wheel-barrow full, even if they had them, it would be an abuse of a friendship, and I don't do that deliberately, sorry (by accident sometimes, only human) :(.

 

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Which manual have you got Paul, engine or chassis?

 

If what you have is the really thick chassis manual (the one with all the circuit diagrams at the back) that really was a result. I forget what I paid for mine, it was about £120 or something.

 

Using the lamps as a diagnostic aid is generally how the Toyota bods do it anyway. All you need is a piece of wire to short pins T1 and Te1 of the diagnostic connector with the ignition on but engine not running. Gearbox faults generally show up with a flashing OD lamp and engine faults flash the engine check lamp. I think there is a list of the fault codes, and an explanation of each, on the UK-Supras website. Or maybe it was the MKIV.com website. But if you get stuck then by all means ask me and I'll try my best to help.    

 

Yours,

J

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Quote: from Paul Booth on 11:11 am on Aug. 24, 2001[br]...and now I've got the engine one too, for another £20 contribution to the workshop coffee fund.

 

Bwuhaahaaahaaaaaaa!

 

 

 

My mistake, £15.

 

My chum, body-shop-man, went to collect it and pay for it and it became £15.

 

Well I need some luck. I've done nothing but chase iffy speed conversion problems for a week of spare time and I'm spending all day Bank Holiday Sunday getting to the bottom of it.

 

Then I'm taking it over to Essex on Monday to view yet another red open-top, a Honda as it happens......

 

... an NTV Deauville.

 

I can't make my mind up whether to get a Pan European for it's long legs (M40) or the Deauville for its manouverability in traffic (Regent Street). Never ridden a Deauville, so we'll see Monday. Big problem is that Deauvilles are built in Spain (Danger! Will Robinson. Danger!)

Found a mint, high mileage, single owner Pan on a 'T' plate but it's blue. Oh well, can always get a colour change.

 

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