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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Fuel Pumps Not Working


terribleturner

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Ha d a problem last week when i went out to the car. Fuel pumps were a no go. Checked all fuses and they were fine. Tapped and even removed EFI fuses. Removed Hanger with pumps and all fine. Totally stumped me.

Have now found out that if you bridge the Diagnostic port the pumps start to run. Now my alarm/imobilser kills the pumps but seems to be turning off when commanaded to. Could it possibly be were i've done my 12v mod?? If there was a problem there would the pumps run when bridging the port?? Any other ideas??

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Could be I guess. Bridging the diagnostic port runs them at 12V whereas the ECU might use 9V when cranking. I thought it used 12V while cranking but I can't remember now. Not sure what you could have done that would make them not work at 9V though!

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Could be I guess. Bridging the diagnostic port runs them at 12V whereas the ECU might use 9V when cranking. I thought it used 12V while cranking but I can't remember now. Not sure what you could have done that would make them not work at 9V though!

 

 

same theory :) no feed to ecu but bridging diagnostic port is back feeding which provides the feed to ecu :innocent:

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If i said the pumps started to run as soon as the ignition was turned on, would that give any clues to how the mod was done??

 

 

from memory there is already a constant 12volts supply but the fuel pump ecu drops it to 9volts. by removing the fuel pump ecu and wiring the wires which are 12volts straight to pump does the job. but will keep running the pump as long as the ignition is on, even if engine is not running.

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Ha d a problem last week when i went out to the car. Fuel pumps were a no go. Checked all fuses and they were fine. Tapped and even removed EFI fuses. Removed Hanger with pumps and all fine. Totally stumped me.

Have now found out that if you bridge the Diagnostic port the pumps start to run. Now my alarm/imobilser kills the pumps but seems to be turning off when commanaded to. Could it possibly be were i've done my 12v mod?? If there was a problem there would the pumps run when bridging the port?? Any other ideas??

 

IF you bridge FP and B+ and the pumps run, then the fault is with the Relay. As with the diagnostic mode your basically supplying power straight to the Fuel pump ECU ...Of the top of me head thats EFI No.2 relay, worth checking it, and also the main EFI relay, as i think they share the circuit.

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IF you bridge FP and B+ and the pumps run, then the fault is with the Relay. As with the diagnostic mode your basically supplying power straight to the Fuel pump ECU ...Of the top of me head thats EFI No.2 relay, worth checking it, and also the main EFI relay, as i think they share the circuit.

 

Hhmm i think the relay has been swoped for a working one with no joy. But i will double check to see :)

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Hhmm i think the relay has been swoped for a working one with no joy. But i will double check to see :)

 

I'l go through the Wiring diagram in work tomorrow matey, and list the main culprits, but the 2 efi fuses and 2 relays are always my 1st port of call if the Diagnostic bridge gets the pumps going.

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Are you saying that the fuel pump fires up as soon as the ignition goes on? Gah, another unsafe 12v mod :(

 

If you bin it the pump will carry on pumping until you key off. If you can.

 

As this is the cheapest and nastiest way to do the 12v mod, I immediately suspect it's wiring :D

 

-Ian

 

PS oh and what's your reasoning for having a 12v mod? I suspect a reversion back to stock might be a great way to fix this problem...

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If i said the pumps started to run as soon as the ignition was turned on, would that give any clues to how the mod was done??

 

Actually yes, because normally the ECU doesn't run the fuel pump until you crank the engine - it doesn't run it just on ignition on. The fuel pump ECU has a 12V supply which is on when the ignition is, a wire from the ECU which it sets to 12V or 9V but only when the engine is cranking or running and an output to the pump. Sounds like your 12v mod was to join the 12V supply to the pump output. That will make your pump see 12v all the time the ignition is on. Not a great idea, as it will keep running the pump even if you're upside down in a ditch and the engine has stopped!

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