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Boost gauge fitting


tbourner

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I need help.

I've searched but there's nothing 'low tech' enough for me!!

 

I need layfolk terms here people!!!!

 

 

1. Where can I attach the 12v lead so it comes on with the ignition? It's fused and all but I can't just wire to the battery (obviously).

 

2. The air hose isn't very long, where does it connect?

2.1 Where's the best place to go through on a manual where there's enough room and it won't crimp? (alarm cabling goes through grommet upper left of throttle pedal, might be enough room though).

2.2 I wanted the gauge on the top left bit of the dash above the heater controls, dunno if it'll reach that far, might have to go on the right side near the window (don't fancy taking out heater pods).

 

3. Can someone come round and help me fit it one weekend?!!

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Originally posted by tbourner

I need help.

I've searched but there's nothing 'low tech' enough for me!!

 

I need layfolk terms here people!!!!

 

 

1. Where can I attach the 12v lead so it comes on with the ignition? It's fused and all but I can't just wire to the battery (obviously).

 

2. The air hose isn't very long, where does it connect?

2.1 Where's the best place to go through on a manual where there's enough room and it won't crimp? (alarm cabling goes through grommet upper left of throttle pedal, might be enough room though).

2.2 I wanted the gauge on the top left bit of the dash above the heater controls, dunno if it'll reach that far, might have to go on the right side near the window (don't fancy taking out heater pods).

 

3. Can someone come round and help me fit it one weekend?!!

 

1. I attached all my wires to the back of the clock, works a treat.

2.1 Through the grommet sounds familar

2.2 I mounted mine on the steering pillar (can't see over 100 anymore if thats important to you. Pillar pods are popular with many however. Just solder wires as extensions, thats easy enough.

3. Sorry wrong country.

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Originally posted by sinbad

1. I attached all my wires to the back of the clock, works a treat.

2.1 Through the grommet sounds familar

2.2 I mounted mine on the steering pillar (can't see over 100 anymore if thats important to you. Pillar pods are popular with many however. Just solder wires as extensions, thats easy enough.

3. Sorry wrong country.

 

 

1. Hmm, I'm scared of taking things apart, is this a must for fitting this? (I'm guessing it is unless I want pipes all over the front of the dash!!).

 

2. I probably will go through there, but it's the vacuum hose that's too short, it's only about 6 feet!!!!

 

3. Damn, anyone else?

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You can get vaccum tubing from your local autofactors.

And for the power, when he says the back of the clock, he is saying the wires before they go into the plug, which goes into the clock. You always have to 'tap into' power and other wires like this in cars. You can either use scotch locks (bad) or remove some of the shielding and solder wires on (good - imo!).

If you are not comfortable taking things apart, or taking tools to your car wires (understandable) then I would get someone else to do it !

 

:) no offence intended !

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The wiring's the easy bit tbh. I'll go for the clock option and I used scotch locks (or similar) before, would go for soldering but my iron doesn't have a cigarette lighter adaptor!!! :twak: :D

 

 

It's the vacuum that's worrying me.

I've seen the mod on here that shows taking off the pipe to the OEM pressure sensor. Mine still has this, is it a good idea to remove and replace with a vacuum cap? Does the 'T' section I have just go in this pipe somewhere otherwise? It's a bloody small bit of pipe to try and fit a 'T' section into!!

Will there be any problems routing the vacuum pipe through the grommet (hole in my case) in the bulkhead? Won't foul the pipe and mess the recordings?

 

:stupid:

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Originally posted by tbourner

I've seen the mod on here that shows taking off the pipe to the OEM pressure sensor. Mine still has this, is it a good idea to remove and replace with a vacuum cap? Does the 'T' section I have just go in this pipe somewhere otherwise? It's a bloody small bit of pipe to try and fit a 'T' section into!!

Will there be any problems routing the vacuum pipe through the grommet (hole in my case) in the bulkhead? Won't foul the pipe and mess the recordings?

 

:stupid:

 

NO NO NO NO NO DO NOT perform that mod. It's a fuckwit enough mod with a UK/US spec car that measures airflow with a Mass Air Flow meter at the air intake, but on a J-Spec the MAP sensor is THE thing that tells the ECU how much air is coming in and therefore how much fuel needs to be added. If it constantly thinks it's in a state of vacuum the fuelling will be inadequate for anything off-idle, if you somehow made it to positive boost it would detonate the engine's arse off sideways.

 

Phew.

 

'T' in a pipe by all means though :) I've got three aftermarket pressure sensors attached to that lot now! Extend the hose a bit with more vac hose if you need to. As long as bends don't go to 90deg in severity and hoses don't get pinched shut it will work.

 

-Ian

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Cool won't do that then.

 

Might have to get some more hose though.

 

 

 

Next problem I've found is if I mount on the dash where I want it, there's no-where for the hose to get through to the bulkhead without being all over the front of the dash!!

Aren't there any holes at the back or on top (near the screen maybe?) that go through to the inside of the dash?

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Where are you gonna mount it ? Its easy to get from the bulk head to behind the dash. The dash panels just pull out.

Most people go for the stock clock location, very easy, but not so readable there. Not so important if you have a warning light on it.

Otherwise pillar pod ?

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Yep read that. Apart from it being for lefties (which would confuse the hell outta me when I came to do it no doubt!!), I don't wanna take the clock out it's too helpful.

 

I wanted it on top of the dash, to the left of the wheel, just as it begins to slope down towards the transmission tunnel.

But I don't want the pipe going down into the passenger footwell on top of the dash, so is there a place anywhere closer towards the windscreen that I could get in through?

 

I could always mount closer to the driver side, but I'd still have a pipe running over my mirror switchey bits!!

 

 

I suppose I could remove the dash and cut a small semi-circle out of the edge closest to the mounting point? Feed the pipe through - might look a bit gammy though!

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Originally posted by sinbad

Thought about mounting it onto the steering column surround?

 

Won't it get in the way of the dials?

 

At least some of them - over 100mph is the most important bit!!!

 

 

 

I might just replace the clock in the end, but it'll be really annoying I can tell, it's damn useful on the way to work.

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Personally I wouldn't put the boost gauge in the clock position because I'd have to take my hand off the wheel to see it. Presumably you'll only really want to see the boost reading when at high boost, ie going really fast.

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Yeah thought about that too, that's why I wanted it on top of the dash somewhere.

 

 

Unfortunately my stereo has a flip down front to see the screen with the clock, fine in my old MG but I punch the nuts off it when changing gear in the supe!!! Have to leave it folded up all the time.

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Originally posted by Paul -C-

Isn't it a bit hard to read when you're hitting max boost?

I can see why you might think that but it's actually no harder than glancing at the speedo or rev counter, once you've got used to it being there.
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I sit too far forwards for that though, I'd hit my knees on it.

 

I might go for top right though, sitting in it this morning there's a little ridge on the top of the dash, sit it just behind that to the right of the wheel, in front of the little 'side window demist' vent.

 

That'd still mean a hole in the top of the dash though unless I glue in some way! Suppose that doesn't matter really who'd wanna buy a turbo car specifically without a boost gauge?

 

 

 

Still need somewhere to feed the pipe through though!!!

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Originally posted by tbourner

I sit too far forwards for that though, I'd hit my knees on it.

 

I might go for top right though, sitting in it this morning there's a little ridge on the top of the dash, sit it just behind that to the right of the wheel, in front of the little 'side window demist' vent.

 

That'd still mean a hole in the top of the dash though unless I glue in some way! Suppose that doesn't matter really who'd wanna buy a turbo car specifically without a boost gauge?

 

 

 

Still need somewhere to feed the pipe through though!!!

 

Hi Trev

 

What's wrong with a pillar pod? You can route the pipes and wires inside it, it looks neat and is far easier to glance at when you're going at W.O.T. which is the time when you probably want to check the boost gauge.

 

As far as I'm concerned you need to see something like that out of the corner of your eye, without really taking your eyes off the road.

Look to where the clock is and refocus, and then look back to the road, and you could easily be up the back of someone else when you're giving it some stick.

 

One way of setting up gauges which has been favoured by racers in the past is the 12 o clock system. Align all the gauges so that the pointer is pointing straight up in the normal or safe maximum position, all thats needed is a quick glance at the dials to know all is well, as its much quicker to check that all the pointers are straight up than to try and read each individual gauge.

 

Just a thought :)

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I've now bought a gauge pod, didn't think you could get single pillar pods at the time, and I don't want any more gauges (at the moment).

 

 

Where does the pipe go from the bottom of the pillar pod then? Can it get through the side window demist vent somehow? I'd be alright if there was a gap down that driver side somewhere to fit it through, sort of where the door meets the dash.

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