redsupratt6spd Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 Took my sup out on a small track over here with wee blips up to about 130 mph and a lot of heavy braking. After a few hard laps I noticed the temp gauge climbing which always used to stay in the middle on normal driving. So I back off and turn on the heater and it fell back down to the middle in no time. Is the normal or is there anything I can do to help this?? I just don't like the gauge being up in the red and don't want to cause any damage. Thanks J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 hi there, glad to see you using the supe on the track thats what they were built for, but as for your high temps, not good,if your fairly stock the temps shouldent go up too much, ive done quit a bit of track work in mine and the water gauge has never gone above half way, the oil goes up a bit tho but a gauge is nice to keep an eye on things, so it sounds as if your rad might not be upto scratch, have a look at your coolant and if it looks dirty get it changed.hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 Yes the temp guage should not move at all. I woudl say you need to address your cooling before anything else. We have alot of products to help this in store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiefgroover Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 If its Kirkistown you were on, your temp needle should not go more than about 3 to 4 mm higher than normal road driving. Flush out coolant system and refill with the genuine toyota stuff, or you could also try "water wetter" which I hear great reports about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 Took my sup out on a small track over here with wee blips up to about 130 mph and a lot of heavy braking. After a few hard laps I noticed the temp gauge climbing which always used to stay in the middle on normal driving. So I back off and turn on the heater and it fell back down to the middle in no time. Is the normal or is there anything I can do to help this?? I just don't like the gauge being up in the red and don't want to cause any damage. Thanks J Have you got a front mount intercooler on the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 Have you got a front mount intercooler on the car? i thought that too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 ... you could also try "water wetter" which I hear great reports about. water wetter is only really effective if you flush the whole lot and use it with pure distilled water. Then it makes a big difference:) , but it's really the lack of antifreeze that does the job, not the lower surface tension (but it wouldn't hurt) If you just add WW in an existing 50/50 mix don't expect to see any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JODY T Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 I thought it was best to have 100% water on track days to help keep everything cool.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 I'd say your radiator is knackered....even with an FMIC it shouldn't really fluctuate. This sort of behaviour was what I experienced before my Rad stopped working. I would look for a new rad now, before it stops working in normal traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 With a front mount it can happen even if your rad is perfectly fine, believe me I've done ALOT of track days over years, starting from when my car was more or less std up until its current state. I could hack round all day when I had a std intercooler, soon as I fitted a front mount temps starting going sky high after a lap or 2. The one thing that solved the problem was an oil cooler, after that I've had no problems. We still dont know if he has a front mount or not though! So it may be the rad yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
752BalticBlue Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 Paul's right about the oil cooler. When you really push a road car, the oil temperature normally rises which in turn, raises the engine tempetature. Oil coolers are the main thing that get fitted to competition production class cars to cope with that. I couldn't tell you if your intercooler was designed to do that but if not, as Paul said, fitting one should solve the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redsupratt6spd Posted May 2, 2006 Author Share Posted May 2, 2006 Have you got a front mount intercooler on the car? No mate it's the std side mounted one , Chris wilson said it was spot on and didn't need changed. Engine mods Chris has done for me are Hks cams,water injection,colder plugs,full decat with nur spec and think thats it. So maybe now thinking my rad is f**ked? More money !! What's the best one to go for and a oil cooler?? Thanks Lads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 Sounds like the rad then, you'll soon know when its removed. Best off with Fluidyne rad with one of my oil cooler kits, they work wonders on my car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiefgroover Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 water wetter is only really effective if you flush the whole lot and use it with pure distilled water. Then it makes a big difference:) , but it's really the lack of antifreeze that does the job, not the lower surface tension (but it wouldn't hurt) If you just add WW in an existing 50/50 mix don't expect to see any difference. I didnt know you could use it any other way other than fresh distilled water and WW. I still think the car has a fault in the cooling system, Whether its the local 2 mile track or the Nurbergring, supra engines dont boil up in my experience even with big tubs, you'd be best to get the cooling system working properly before adding other bits or it may be a "brushing the dirt under the carpet" move. IF you car has been run with either old and done coolant, or just water, you probably have a corrrosion issue, perhaps a part blocked rad or heater rad? go investigate!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redsupratt6spd Posted May 2, 2006 Author Share Posted May 2, 2006 Sounds like the rad then, you'll soon know when its removed. Best off with Fluidyne rad with one of my oil cooler kits, they work wonders on my car! Cheers will do Paul i'll have a look and see what the crack is,i'll give you a shout about the oil cooler kit as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redsupratt6spd Posted May 2, 2006 Author Share Posted May 2, 2006 I didnt know you could use it any other way other than fresh distilled water and WW. I still think the car has a fault in the cooling system, Whether its the local 2 mile track or the Nurbergring, supra engines dont boil up in my experience even with big tubs, you'd be best to get the cooling system working properly before adding other bits or it may be a "brushing the dirt under the carpet" move. IF you car has been run with either old and done coolant, or just water, you probably have a corrrosion issue, perhaps a part blocked rad or heater rad? go investigate!. Yes will have to flush it all out not too sure when it was done last I'll give the car a good service and check out the rad as well. Cheers Bud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 I didnt know you could use it any other way other than fresh distilled water and WW. .. Neither did I, but there are people out there adding WW to their existing old coolant mix and then wonder why water temps don't get any lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jspec Germany Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 When you do the flush, can you flush it with fresh water, or does it have to be distilled? I'm planning to eventually fill with WW and distilled water. How much? One bottle and fill remainder with distilled til overflow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 We sell water wetter. You can fluch with tap water, but you need to make sure its all out after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 So why would temps go sky high after fitting an FMIC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jspec Germany Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 We sell water wetter. You can fluch with tap water, but you need to make sure its all out after. Make sure all the tap water is out after? How do I do that, with a vacuum? I've got two bottles of it already along with the distilled water, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 By using distilled water. If you leave out tap water over night in a bucket, it becomes pretty much distilled and all the harmfull additived evaporate. Just make sure no Crud gets in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jspec Germany Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Ok, so I guess I'm off to look up how to do this. I'm assuming it's as easy as putting a big bucket under the bottom rad hose and dumping pure distilled through the rad cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 If you want to do it properly you can buy a tool for about £30, its a 1 way valve thing... cant eremember where i saw it ill look around as im always loosing mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jspec Germany Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 a tool? can't picture this. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now