FaithStalker Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 Hey All, When i first got my supra a few months ago, the idle was very high (and went up and down when the a/c was on) but now, its very low and seems a little rough. I have a j-spec, and just use straight unleaded (cant afford other stuff) could it be the cold that has caused the lower idle speed? or could it be the ECU has mapped to the lower grade fuel i am using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 It should idle at about 6-800rpm...its low because of the amount of torque it produces even at that speed. Mine varies on a daily basis...the only thing I have tried to settle it down is to make sure I use the same type and make of fuel I use...for me its Shell Optimax...but if optimax didn't exist I'd use say Esso but I'd stick to Esso. If your still worried some thing is wrong...try pulling both fuses on the ECU for 30 mins and then go out for a long drive with varying circumstances...ie go through a town and then out on fast duelies etc. Have you checked to make sure you have a standard J-spec ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cargill Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 Mine was always 500-800RPM. When I put Optimax in it went up to 1000-1500RPM. Back to Regular and the idle dropped again. Back to Optimax and up it went. Reset ECU when on Optimax and idle back to normal 500-800. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 When is the last time the spark plugs were changed ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaithStalker Posted November 14, 2001 Author Share Posted November 14, 2001 dunno - i hope when it got a service before i picked it up from JIC - they also changed the cambelt, how do i get to check the spark-plugs ? where r they in that huge engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 Hmmm could be they are getting on a bit. I wouldn't guarantee that JIC changed them, so it's probably worth swapping them out. Speak to shop about new plugs, i think NGK are the preferred make. As for how to do it, take a look at :- http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/general_maintenance/mo3.jpg Just watch for the two oil pipes underneath the spark plug cover, apparently they have a tendency to go hard and brittle over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 Yes as Martin says watch those two breather pipes. It is a good idea to buy some and keepthem for plug changes, I have the part numbers somewhere if you want them. My car was "serviced" buy JIC. I don’t know what oil they used but I changed it after 500 miles as it was too dark. When the plugs where changed about 3000 miles later they were in a state, no way had they been changed either. I am sure MKIV.com has plug change instructions. I wonder if one of your coil pack does not like the cold and damp, does it get better after a warm up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon F Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 I thought the plugs in these cars were supposed to last 60,000 miles or so. Is that not the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doughie Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 60,000 miles is recommended max. interval for the *platinum-tipped* plugs. The platinum ones were standard on UK-specs (:biggrin:) but i don't think they were used in the J-specs (though i may be worng there). Non-platinum tipped plugs have a much shorter service life. Maybe 10-20,000 miles or so. I beleive the plug code for NGK is something like NGK BCPR7-ES. (that' for a grade 7 plug which is advisable if you're running above stock boost). "stock" plug grade is grade 6. That would be : NGK BCPR6-ES or similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syed Shah Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 The platinum tips were on both UKand J-specs, but should still be changed sooner, as with the cambelt BTW. My car was not serviced by the JIC, andI think they only do it if the car can't go without it, so if you have jusy brought a car from the (or any other dealer) get it serviced so you *know* it has had everything done for your own peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaithStalker Posted November 15, 2001 Author Share Posted November 15, 2001 ...plus... I know that your supposed to get cloudy-smoke on startup in this cold weather, but, after the engine has warmed up and i've driven around for about 20 mins, when i stop, theres a crap loads of whiteish smoke. when i get out and look at the exhaust, there is a constant kinda puffing of smoke, but when i press the accelerator again, theres a whole load of smoke again, i know smoke is bad, the colour is whiteish, but could this also be a problem? theres a constant chugging sound when the engine is hot or cold and when you give it a but of wellie it becomes really noticeable ! ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh back to JIC it goes (4th time !) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 White smoke from the exhaust could mean there is water leaking into a cylinder(s) or into the exhaust manifold. Chugging sound could be a cylinder missing which would explain the erratic idle. This thread is starting to sound expensive. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaithStalker Posted November 15, 2001 Author Share Posted November 15, 2001 Where would the water be coming from? If i check the water level in the engine would that be going down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam W Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 Yes, if there is water leaking into the cylinder (or anywhere else) the water level will be going down - best time to check it is every morning while the engine is cold (ie before you set out). If it is then you could have a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 If it is water entering the cylinder then it is almost certainly will be engine cooling water. In which case, the water level will deplete over time. There could be other clues such as bubbles in the coolant and gurgling noises after the engine is switched off when hot. Sometimes there can be water contamination of the oil, denoted by a sludgy, frothy mix permeating the sump area and shown on the dipstick. If it *is* water contamintion then it'll be expensive. So better check those warranty documents carefully and watch what you say when you take it back. If you have changed anything on the engine from stock since you bought it, then I'd suggest you refit the stock stuff PDQ. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 Quote: from Ash on 10:42 am on Nov. 15, 2001[br] If it is water entering the cylinder then it is almost certainly will be engine cooling water. In which case, the water level will deplete over time. There could be other clues such as bubbles in the coolant and gurgling noises after the engine is switched off when hot. Sometimes there can be water contamination of the oil, denoted by a sludgy, frothy mix permeating the sump area and shown on the dipstick. Yours, J For coolant level check you expansion tank. You may notice a cream coloured film on the oil filler cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaithStalker Posted November 15, 2001 Author Share Posted November 15, 2001 Its totally stock, nothing has changed except perhaps my optimitsic opinion of Toyota's reliability ! Phil - expansion tank? where is that? Ash - bubbles in the coolant? is where you check the water level near the radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cargill Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 When you open the bonnet the expansion tank is just in front of the radiator, about where your right knee is. You should be able to see in from the left side (looking at the front of the car) and there will be a min and max levels. Should be inbetween those. Make sure you do this when it's cold. Take off the radiator cap and the 'water' should be up to the top. If it's not then top up the radiator and then do the expansion tank to the max level. I'd just use water at this stage, but you may get better advice, as if you have a problem you will probably be getting it drained soon anyway. Check it every day. How does your water temperature gauge behave? Especially after a goot WOT run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 Quote: from Ash on 9:24 am on Nov. 15, 2001[br] This thread is starting to sound expensive. Yours, J More expensive than a set of spark plugs anyway.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 Quote: from ajefford on 11:01 am on Nov. 15, 2001[br]Its totally stock, nothing has changed except perhaps my optimitsic opinion of Toyota's reliability ! Phil - expansion tank? where is that? Ash - bubbles in the coolant? is where you check the water level near the radiator? If I were you I wouldn't start messing with it as you could invalidate your warranty and, from what you have said, that is the very last thing you want to be risking right now. I would also read the terms and conditions carefully. Especially as regards reporting faults within a certain number of days and conditions regarding servicing. Just to make absolutely sure they cannot wriggle out of anything. As I say, if it IS water leaking into one or more cylinders it WILL be an expensive fix. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaithStalker Posted November 15, 2001 Author Share Posted November 15, 2001 Lunchtime today, started it up - fine, took it for a run, still sounded a bit chuggy, picked up ok, stopped - left it to idle, was idling around 400-600, no smoke, temp guage showed 1/2 (which is where it usually is!) listening to the engine, constatant tapping noise from the metal box to the right of the "main" engine - is that the fuel-injectors? its where the accelerator cable goes into. listening towards the front of the exhaust, next to drivers door, sounds like water dripping onto a hot metal plate - like a spitting - could just have been the metal "creaking" as it cools, but it didnt sound like it - checked my radiator water, while engine was running, no bubbles at all - moved up and down a lot though, it was well FULL, looked slighty browny/green colour, antifreeze?, checked the expansion tank - same kinda colour, no movement in thier at all, checked the oil, looked "thin" but ok! revved it a lot, no smoke at all this time - slight kinda steamy smoke, but very thin, and didnt increase with revving. strange ! think i'll give it another week and keep an eye on things.... but guys - hey - thanks for the advice - more than toyota did for me ! If i can ever repay the favour with what little knowledge i have, then i'll try ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 Colour sounds OK and the main rad level is where it should be. There are two level markings on the side of the expansion tank just visible from the center front, where is the water level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted November 16, 2001 Share Posted November 16, 2001 Quote: from ajefford on 3:41 pm on Nov. 15, 2001[br] checked my radiator water, while engine was running, no bubbles at all - moved up and down a lot though, What do you mean by "moved up and down a lot" ? Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaithStalker Posted November 16, 2001 Author Share Posted November 16, 2001 Well it would swell up and then settle down again swell up then down, hope thats normal - i seem to remember my Saxo VTS did that also ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted November 16, 2001 Share Posted November 16, 2001 Over what time period? And it was doing this (and does do this) each time the engine runs? Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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