Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Dyno FAQ


THOR Racing

Recommended Posts

Can members please post one liner questions relating to the Dynapack and the Dyno plots produced.

 

I aim to add an FAQ to the thor website and a little bit of help with reading and understanding your dyno plots.

 

Also some stock comparisons with NA, NA VVTi, TT and TT VVTi

 

plus what BPU upgrades can get you...

plus what happens if the induction is breathing poorly etc..

 

Thanks guys and gals

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few to start with....

 

 

What makes the dynopack different to conventional rolling roads?

 

How do the figures relate to power on the road when tyre loses aren't taken into account?

 

Are there any dangers involved with having my car on the dynopack?

 

How long does it take?

 

How much does it cost?

 

I got my car tested on the rollers at "X" why are the results different?

 

Can you add performance parts and give me a before and after graph?

 

I live miles away from Thor, can you come to me?

 

Can you dyno automatic cars?

 

I only have a low powered car, what benefits will I get from a dyno run?

 

 

(Obviously having used your services I know the answers to most of these but I thought they might be useful ones)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wipeout got 293 hp at the hubs, and mine was 306? (or do I use the 303 green box figure here) with mine.. can you tell me what flywheel/engine figures that means to give me some idea of what difference the non stock exhaust pipe made please :)

 

(Both UK 6 speeds)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I ask a different question?

 

Just posted my figures up on the rex forums and some of them have highed (rather than questioned) the ratio on my boost chart. I quote:

 

the ratio of the stock differential is 4.1:1 not 3.9:1 as they appear to have used on your graphs

 

is it the case this would make any sort of difference or is this all sorted out before the test? Just a n00b question really :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ratio is set up by measuring the engine RPM and matching this to the hub (wheel) RPM.

This was done at 4000rpm.

 

The ratio you quote is for the Auto gearboxed car I believe.

 

The reason I think the ratio is less is the efficiency of the torque converter.

 

On full load (WOT) and at 4000rpm the torque converter should be at or over it's stall speed and hence delivering maximum capable torque (it won't be locked up as it's always slipping under high load, thus you can never get a direct 1:1 drive.)

 

The 3.9:4.1 ratio is showing a 95% efficiency of the torque converter. This can and does vary based on age, fluid condition and manufacturing tolerences. We are measuring each car on a car by car basis.

 

We are seeing the ACTUAL drive ratio being applied between the engine and hubs.

 

Regards

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.