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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Head skimming


Bob

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Hey guys, I'm fairly new to actual engine work but interested in learning about my TT engine; in particular the head. I'm hoping at some point in the near future to take the head off to change the stem seals - I know you don't need to but I'd like to just in case I ever want to fiddle with the valves.

 

As I said, I'm new to block work, so can someone clear these questions up for me?:

 

a.) What does 'skimming' the head entail; why is it necessary?

b.) Is there any point in uprating the head gasket if I don't aim to go higher than 500bhp (in the VERY long run!)

 

 

Thanks guys!

 

Bob

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Skimming is like it says. If the head is slightly warped, or you want to increase the compression, you can, within tolerances set by the manufacturer, skim very small amounts off the mating surface of the head (being the surface of the head which meets the block). By very small amounts we are talking thousands of an inch in some cases (dont know about the supra). If you take more of than recommended, you run the risk of the piston striking the valves at higher revs. If you rebuild and find the pistons strike the valves at all revs, you used an angle grinder :)

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So long as you haven't had any overheating issues, the head should be fine and not need skimmed as long as you untorque the bolts in the correct order and torque them up (new head bolts required!) in the correct order which ensures even clamping force is applied.

 

Standard gasket is of the metal type and doesn't really need replaced but if I had the head off I'd choose to replace it with another standard gasket to ensure no chance for problems. Remember to properly clean the mating faces of the head and block!

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

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The only reason to skim a head that has had no head gasket or overheating issues is if the the fire rings of the gasket, around the chambers, have "bitten into" the alloy head material and left dents. Then a light skim is advisable. A warped head may well skim flat, within tolerances, but you MUST MUST MUST ensure that the warping has not also put the camshaft bearings out of line. If so these need the caps machining and the journals then line boring back to round and straight, the cost of which may well make the repair uneconomic.

 

Heads need skimming on a proper resurfacer, either ground or fly cut, and NOT by hand. Even a toolmaker would be hard pressed to get a warped head truly flat with scrapers, although in theory it's possible. Use a machine!

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then of course there's manual skimming or doing it with a machine ....

 

machine is safer, but Im told that the best way is manually and you get lots of little scrapes which mate better when everything is re joined.

 

BY HAND!! :faint:

 

Machined and surface ground is the best way. You'll never get it as flat by hand. NEVER I tell thee.

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Ah, I think I understand now. So an undamaged head gasket replacement won't need the head skimmed as long as the bolts are torqued off and on in the right sequence, and the standard head gasket is fine. Luverly! :D

 

Cheers folks, that's my mind at rest! :D

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BY HAND!! :faint:

 

Machined and surface ground is the best way. You'll never get it as flat by hand. NEVER I tell thee.

 

I'm just going on what one of engineers was telling me the other day. basically that you use a pan of red led place the surface on it and remove and you'll see the bumps as the have led and the lower surfaces wont. you then skim away until the whole surface is red.

 

and apparently by doing that and havng lots of mini score marks it gives everything more purchase when put together ?

 

personally I struggle with the 710 cap, but he's an old boy that seems to know what he's on about most of the time.

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