downimpact Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Making brake ducts for oem discs, the room to blow through the middle and out through the vanes isn't huge so some air will blow onto the inside of the disc as well as to the middle. We're using a 2inch hole and about half will go to the middle and 1 inch blowing against the inside of the disc. At the moment we are going to run the backing plate to the size of the disc so that the air blown at the inside of the disc some will possibly also go outwards along the back of the disc (think/hope). Only concern with this is that the heat generated from the brakes may be trapped and intensified by running a backing plate close to the disc and even with some cool air blowing this may be detrimental, or cause warping with varying heat along the disc. The other option is to cut the backing plate as small as possible so it's only the area in the centre of the disc getting any air and the outer edge of the disc isn't insulated by a backing plate, but equally not getting any chance of more air. Anyone with knowledge give a steer on this. There is various and disputed internet theories about uneven cooling causing warping, please only comment if you really know as want to try and avoid warping a set of discs and race pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Ive run cooling ducts to the back of the discs for years now and pretty sure they work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downimpact Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 that's good to hear, any pics of your set up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 I`ll get some up over the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 http://www.singularmotorsports.com/tech-blog-brake-cooling/ may help a bit. Even when air flow is unevenly distributed to inner and outer faces of vented discs i have never been convinced it causes warpage. If you are brave you could try using one or two Aquamist HP pumps and 2 jets o water cool them. That may promote cracking, but the latent heat of evaporation of good old water works superbly... Fire it into the eye of the disc, with the jet squirting radially. If you want to be flash use a cheap laser sensor on one front disc to turn the system on and off via temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downimpact Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 thanks both, think I'll leave the aqua mist option for a future contingency if I can't get this ducting working enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Then there are water cooled calipers, too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downimpact Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Then there are water cooled calipers, too Determined to make UK calipers work, have spare set of new discs ready in case this fails. Just ordered infrared thermometer so will check the difference that the ducting makes to the temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 I would imagine real time disc temp monitoring is dirt cheap nowadays, thanks to China, if you are handy with electrics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 I would imagine real time disc temp monitoring is dirt cheap nowadays, thanks to China, if you are handy with electrics. Could do it very cheaply with a microcontroller and something like an I2C MLX90616 which has a max reading of 1030 degC, I have no idea how hot brakes get Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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