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help! supra not revving over 2k


ray007
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I had quite same issue many years ago.

 

I plugged out crank position sensor & igniter(?, that black box) + cleaned those connectors properly. Newer had this broblem since.

 

so, if you have checked ignitor, check crank position sensor & connector + make sure that timing "ring" is ok.

 

Hi bud, what did you use to clean the connectors?

 

And sorry what do you mean by the ring?

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I would concentrate your efforts on making sure the throttle position sensors are set absolutely correctly according to the detailed information in the workshop manual, and that they have no dead spots. Also that they, the engine, and the ecu are supposed to be working together by part numbers. For that an analogue multi meter is far better than a digital one. As the car is a mongrel this will make diagnostics somewhat harder.

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Hi bud, what did you use to clean the connectors?

 

And sorry what do you mean by the ring?

 

Just normal cleaner spray (to clean electrical components) to make sure that there is no oxidacion (dont know right word for it :) )

 

And with ring, mean that timing plate/ring in crankshaft, under crankshaft pulleys. I dont know if the broblem was that timing sensor didnt read correctly the crankshaft timing or broblem was in connector. Looks like this (some differences between gte / vvti, but similiar...). Actual sensor is on left side.

http://how2diyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/2jzcrank11.jpg

http://how2diyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/2jzcrank2.jpg

 

 

But, as CW says, check TPS also.

Edited by kaahari (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Roger NE
an analogue multi meter is far better than a digital one

 

Couldn't agree more ! On vehicle electrics, digital multimeters can give you all kinds of misleading readings . . . plus when something is changing, you can see the rate of change on an analogue meter. Given how much everything is controlled electronically on these engines, I'm astounded that everyone who works on their own car doesn't have one!

 

Could these probably be symptoms of faulty injectors?

 

Very unlikely . . . perhaps ONE might be faulty, but it wouldn't cause this.

 

Far more likely to be a problem with the signals that the ECU is getting from the engine . . . from the TPS, CPS, etc . . could even be something as silly as a dirty connector.

 

Proper Electronic Switch Cleaner/Lubricant is your friend !

 

But as has been suggested, check that your TPS is giving the correct readings as per the TSRM . . . and clean and adjust it as necessary.

Edited by Roger NE (see edit history)
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Couldn't agree more ! On vehicle electrics, digital multimeters can give you all kinds of misleading readings . . . plus when something is changing, you can see the rate of change on an analogue meter. Given how much everything is controlled electronically on these engines, I'm astounded that everyone who works on their own car doesn't have one!

 

 

 

Very unlikely . . . perhaps ONE might be faulty, but it wouldn't cause this.

 

Far more likely to be a problem with the signals that the ECU is getting from the engine . . . from the TPS, CPS, etc . . could even be something as silly as a dirty connector.

 

Proper Electronic Switch Cleaner/Lubricant is your friend !

 

But as has been suggested, check that your TPS is giving the correct readings as per the TSRM . . . and clean and adjust it as necessary.

 

 

Thanks for the advice bud.. will look into it

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