black_widow87 Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Hi guys, took my car to a local garage to get my manual boost controller fitted. When i got the car back it would not boost over 0.2bar and whichever way i twist the knob it would not change boost They obviously didnt fit it correctly!!! If anyone can recommend somewhere in the midlands area who knows how to fit these kinda things PROPERLY i very much appreciate it CHEERS jake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesC Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Have you done the other mods that are reccommended before upping the boost or are you just trying to crank it up? Sorry, no idea on the problem though! Have a look here: BPU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black_widow87 Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 Yeh im nearly at full BPU. Have a double de-cat exhaust fitted, 1bar restrictor ring, colder spark plugs and uprated WALBRO fuel pump. Trying to up it a tad to 1.2bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Something sounds very wrong there bud. Only a boost leak or a fooked turbo would cause THAT low boost. Do you only get 0.2 all the way through the rev range or does the 2nd tubby come in with a bang after 4krpm? It is such a simple job to do I just can't believe they managed to get it so wrong, I certainly wouldn't recommend going back there for anything. In the mean time I would get it removed ASAP to make sure they haven't fooked your turbo by having it set too high. As long as when you remove it and get it back to stock it boosts you are safe. I can't see what would be causing this though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 sounds like they have done something which is not too good Got any pics of where they have fitted it? A manual boost controler just vents some of the pressurised air to atmosphere instesd of allowing it to open the wastegate so in theory when fully shut you should have stock boost or what ever the RR is set at and fully open would be bad. it sounds like they might have pulled a hose off somewhere by mistake/didnt relise and you simply have a boost leak. other than that your tubbies have bit the dust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 sounds like they have done something which is not too good Got any pics of where they have fitted it? A manual boost controler just vents some of the pressurised air to atmosphere instesd of allowing it to open the wastegate so in theory when fully shut you should have stock boost or what ever the RR is set at and fully open would be bad. it sounds like they might have pulled a hose off somewhere by mistake/didnt relise and you simply have a boost leak. other than that your tubbies have bit the dust No, a manual boost controller restricts the pressure from the manifold to the actuator. It doesn't vent anything, it just restricts the flow via a ball and spring (if you get a half decent one, there are other methods). When it is fully shut the restriction is at its maximum and the car will overboost by quite a bit. When it is fully open the car will operate as normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 were they not refered to as bleed valves in the past? as you said I suppose there are different types Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 after a quick search there seems to be 3 types of manual boost controller Bleed valve - works as I said Ball and spring - works as scott M said Diaphragm type - found little info so far just some info on what they do http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boost_controller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black_widow87 Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 Something sounds very wrong there bud. Only a boost leak or a fooked turbo would cause THAT low boost. Do you only get 0.2 all the way through the rev range or does the 2nd tubby come in with a bang after 4krpm? It is such a simple job to do I just can't believe they managed to get it so wrong, I certainly wouldn't recommend going back there for anything. In the mean time I would get it removed ASAP to make sure they haven't fooked your turbo by having it set too high. As long as when you remove it and get it back to stock it boosts you are safe. I can't see what would be causing this though. Yes iv had it removed straight away and now the boost is back to normal at 1bar. When it was fitted the first turbo fuctioned as normal boostin to roughly 0.7bar, but as soon as the second tubby came online it would not go above 0.2bar Do you think it may be a dodgy controller as both turbos still now function properly??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 it sounds like they have put it into the wrong hose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Yes iv had it removed straight away and now the boost is back to normal at 1bar. When it was fitted the first turbo fuctioned as normal boostin to roughly 0.7bar, but as soon as the second tubby came online it would not go above 0.2bar Do you think it may be a dodgy controller as both turbos still now function properly??? Ahh that's different, sounds like everything is OK. Nothing to do with the controller, the controller has no way of lowering the boost. It is all to do with the installation. Do you not fancy doing it yourself? It is really straight forward, you only need to intercept 1 hose and the job is done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 after a quick search there seems to be 3 types of manual boost controller Bleed valve - works as I said Ball and spring - works as scott M said Diaphragm type - found little info so far just some info on what they do http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boost_controller Anyone using a bleed valve is mad. It is basically a deliberate boost leak. Granted it is only a small one but it is a leak none the less. The pressure in the intake manifold is generated by the turbos (obviously), a pipe basically comes from there to the actuator, when it hits a certain boost pressure the actuator opens. If you install a bleed valve between the manifold and the actuator some of the air is bled via the valve. This means that the pressure in the manifold will drop ever so slightly. As you are setting the boost controller at a particular setting (1.2bar) some of the pressure is being lost via the leak. This means that the turbos have to work of the equivilant of 1.3bar (a guess), 1.2bar for the pressure wanted and 0.1bar for the pressure lost via the leak. Not good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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