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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Quick RLTC question


Matt Harwood
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I'm in the process of installing my RLTC unit and have a couple of quick questions for those that have done this before.

 

1, The sheilding around the abs harness. Does this need to be earthed?

2, Is the diagniostics led/plug required? - I know it needs to be easily accesible, but does the led need to visable during normal driving conditions?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

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Guest Martin F

 

1. It doesn't say that the shielding on the ABS harness should be grounded, but on both installs i have done i have grounded that screening. Put an eyelet on and place it under a convenient bolt.

 

2. Best thing to do is to plug the diagnostic harness in and then whe you are not using it coil it up under the carpet or something. Obvioulsy removing the diagnostic plug from the end. You may need to use it from time to time and you don't want to be pulling off panels just to get to it.

 

HTH

 

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You normally only need earth one end. If you earth both ends you sometimes get ground loops where the ground at the sensor isn't quite the same voltage as the ground at the control unit. This can cause noise as a voltage differential means there a resistance path and that means current must be flowing and hence where current flows you get induced pick etc etc. Not good on transmission lines.

 

I doubt it'll make much difference in this case, better stick to what others have done. (Cannot remember what mines like sorry)

 

Pete

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Cheers guys, varied options here... Well mines earthed.

 

It's all in but I havn't tried to calibrate it yet because, as per a previous thread, the last time I jacked the car up, I almost flattened a chassis rail! :( -  I'm going to get a local garage to lift the car on a 4 post lift tomorrow.

 

I've left my manual at work, how do you get the system into calibration mode? - I drove home with the diagnostic plug in and I'm getting all the right readings from the rpm and all wheel speed sensors. (And the car still runs properly so I must have got something right! :))

Are there any special tips for calibrating?

 

BTW the Field harness is a godsend! But did anyone that used on have any difficulty replacing the plastic ecu cover?

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Looks like that may be an option Andy!

 

After a discussion off list, I believe that jacking the car to spin the wheels is simply a test and nothing to do with calibration.

 

My reason for this conclusion is that the RLTC monitors ALL the wheels and induces fuel cut when wheel spin is detected. So, it shouldn't matter which wheel is spinning for this to happen.

 

Is this a correct assumption or should I call RL to confirm?

 

No need to answer my previous question about how to engage calibration mode... I know now.

 

Thanks.

 

(Edited by Matt Harwood at 11:08 pm on Mar. 13, 2002)

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Guest Martin F

 

Never done the rear wheel spinning test on the cars i have done.

 

I think after you have calibrated the unit and checked with the software that you have info coming back from all four wheel sensors then you should be all done.

 

Also if when your all done you select the wet option and boot it coming off a roundabout (disclaimer about supra's + ditches = breakers) you should soon feel the RLTC cut in even in the dry.

 

This is better done (i.e. more noticeable) if you have uploaded a Phil.dat file. :)

 

 

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Quote: from Matt Harwood on 11:06 pm on Mar. 13, 2002[br]Looks like that may be an option Andy!

 

After a discussion off list, I believe that jacking the car to spin the wheels is simply a test and nothing to do with calibration.

 

My reason for this conclusion is that the RLTC monitors ALL the wheels and induces fuel cut when wheel spin is detected. So, it shouldn't matter which wheel is spinning for this to happen.

 

Is this a correct assumption or should I call RL to confirm?

 

No need to answer my previous question about how to engage calibration mode... I know now.

 

Thanks.

 

(Edited by Matt Harwood at 11:08 pm on Mar. 13, 2002)

 

 

The unit works by constantly comparing reference (front) and driven (rear) wheel speeds and hence can determine slip. Depending on what you dial in and the amount of slip detected the injectors are cut progressively. I did my install by the book and spun up the rears on axle stands, it misfired like hell so I guess it works.

 

To get the feel of it working, find a nice wide junction set it to wet and give it some on the way out. You will feel cut in and prevent any major drift.  Obviously you do this entirely at your own risk.

 

Or you could try my favourite, empty road in the pouring rain, straddle the white line and floor it, on wet or 5% setting.  I have managed 0-100 and kept it over the centre line.

 

 

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Be prepared to wash your car ,but RL suggest a test with one wheel on a verge and the other on the road, the wheel on the verge will try to spin, if you use wet setting you will feel RL do its work.

 

The trouble with RL is it works so well you just dont notice it working, when I have done test runs (with someone looking at the laptop) the first stage injector cuts are so subtle you just can't feel them through the car.  It is not until you reach the higher cut levels that you can feel it.  The exit from a junction always gives a pulse feeling to the back end as the wheels are allowed a little slip but not enough to induce lateral or sideways slip, that would otherwise put you into a tricky situation.

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Do I need to say any more!

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Oh yes! In fact it started snowing at one point.

 

I have to admit, every time I floored it out of a junction My knuckles went white. I was just waiting for the back to let go... But it didn't.

 

Must try to not let this new confidence go to my head! - I was driving like it was dry.... All for the sake of experimenting of course.... And very slowly... Didn't break the speed limit once! :biggrin:

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