GazB Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 NO confusion involved. 1. Flick a switch that lights up red when activated 2. Depress cluthch pedal with left foot 3. Press brake pedal hard with right foot, press button on gear stick with left thumb, engage 1st gear 4. Remove right foot from brake pedal and press accelerator pedal with right foot. 5. Release clutch and increase rpm's making sure button is still deprressed on gear stick 6. Wheels now spin until gear stick button is realeased 7. Flick switch, red light goes out. How do you know when line lock is active? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazB Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 Sounds like you'd need two solenoids for that to work, and you'd probably get awfully confused Only 1 Hurst line lock selenoid The way a line lock kit works is it's tapped in to the front brakes, and... 1. Press and hold brake pedal - both rears and fronts are pressurised 2. Hold down line lock button - front brake system isolated whilst under pressure (this holds the fronts ON) 3. Release brake pedal - pressure is released from the rear brakes but fronts remain on because of the solenoid = burnouty goodness! So the rears are de-activated? As soon as you release the button the pressure in the front brakes is released and you can move. EDIT: Are you sure your first red button isn't just a master "ARM" switch/warning to make sure you don't activate the line lock inadvertantly?That's probably what I am going to do, else if the line lock it activated accidentally during normal driving then I'd have no front brakes... Yes it is an ARM switch that also isolated electrical power supply to locking switch on gear stick I have forgotten to 'flick switch' after burn out and have still got front brakes on slow down after 1/4mile run Perhaps the fail safe switch that lights up Red was a good fitment by my installer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekymonkey Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 That's *exactly* what I do except for step 1. I think your line lock kit is fitted in the same way as mine - it's locking off the front brake lines and your step 1 is just a master arm switch, nowt to do with the rear brakes whatsoever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekymonkey Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 3. Release brake pedal - pressure is released from the rear brakes but fronts remain on because of the solenoid = burnouty goodness! So the rears are de-activated? Well, why should they be? You've *released the brake pedal* at this point, so of course the rear brakes are going to disengage, they don't have to be de-activated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekymonkey Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 Yes it is an ARM switch that also isolated electrical power supply to locking switch on gear stick I have forgotten to 'flick switch' after burn out and have still got front brakes on slow down after 1/4mile run Perhaps the fail safe switch that lights up Red was a good fitment by my installer OK - so now you are saying it's a master ARM switch. That's cool - but earlier you say it's de-activating the rear brakes, which it isn't. So lets just put this to bed now eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazB Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 Simple terms are, brake line is locked with pressure to front brakes when gear stick switch is pressed. Perhaps why it's called a line lock system I'm not being smart or funny but it does get hard to explain when writting it down don't you think When i re-read you post that after your edit i could see we were both talking the same sh*t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekymonkey Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 Yes, you had me well confused with your talk of turning the rear brakes off... I hope you see that's not happening at all now. If you leave your red light lit after the burnout, you still get front and rear brakes, so no need to worry there. It's just warning you that your gear knob button is active. I'm thinking of having a similar system. A master arm button that lights up an amber LED, and a red LED that lights when the line lock is actually doing it's thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.