Paul Booth

Spoke to RL tech. Very helpful. Suggested that, even though the lights flashed at the right times to indicate good calibration, what I discovered later seems to suggest the TC box lied when it said it was calibrated. Proposed I calibrate *again* and then try the TC before I do any other changes. I can do that. Can't make TRACREAD word. Need 100% DOS and I'm running emulator under W2000. Will be a Windows UI coming out *sometime* but they keep starting and stopping it. I proposed I do it and let them have it for nowt. Surprisingly, they agreed. I'm gonna use newer tools than I currently have to hand (not been a paid applications programmer for a few years now) so I'm just waiting for them to arrive from Grey Matter. Should take me a week or two once I get the tools installed.

Before I go rooting through the diagrams, do you *really* need to know?

DOH!

I set the minimum RPM to 1500 before I started any tests, but, thinking about it, was that low enough? I haven't stuck it on axle stands *yet* because I just can't quite get my trolley jack underneath since I went from 45 aspect rears to 35 aspect. DOH! New trolley jack required. Any chance you could write down your settings Phil and let me have a copy. I've gone backwards and forwards through my settings and I can't see anything obvious (I even manually set the wheel sensor data it wouldn't be able to work out - diameter etc.)

Well to keep it in the same vein, having *boosted* my grip in the wet with the Eagle F1s, I now want to *boost* my brakes to make better use of that. I won't be a hypocrite and say I'm sensible, I'm just s**t scared of finding some farm implement in the road rounding a bend; not enough to make me drive slowly but enough for me to want *BIG* brakes. Now what was Justin on about those Superleggeras then, *OI! JUSTInnnnnnnnnn*.

Forgot email notify.

I know but I need those brakes first. S'no good being able to go quick if the only way you have of stopping quick is to drive into a wall. I have a Super Drager earmarked but I also have new wheels, a boost gauge, EGT gauge and oil temp gauge higher up the list.

Duh! I've now run it with the diagnostic cable attached and without it. I think I've checked everything now. The only thing I haven't performed a *manual* calibration on is the number of sensor pulses per revolution and I've left that at the default 40. Interestingly, on the wheel sensor setup menu, although it now knows which channels are reference, driven, left & right, and reports the information correctly when you select the channel; on the full menu display it shows them all as reference and left.

Actually, I've been kicking myself that I didn't try that but it seemed so clear at the time that I could run it and see it working on the monitor; now I'm not so sure. I'll wait and see if anyone knows the definitive answer on that one in case there's any other obvious tests I can perform and I can kill a flock of birds with a single stone.

More boost still? I'm not sure if I need it...... yet. Yes I'm running the stock exhaust. I looked at it and it seems to be adequate until I get my UK brakes fitted (damn, meant to go in to Halfords and reconsider those Mag OZ Superleggera).

That was actually the first question I was expecting to get back. I read that it won't work in some diagnostic modes but it was a little ambiguous as to whether that meant with the diagnostic cable plugged in or the calibration plug plugged in or whether it meant when it was in *full* diagnostic mode, continuously outputting the status strings. In answer to your question, yes I was running with cable connected between the TC and my laptop, running the graphical monitor program.

All of them.

Got both de-cat pipes fitted this a.m. (3" APEXi). Whoohaaaaaa! From wafting sedately passed 120MPH, it now goes passed 120MPH still pulling like a train (lurve that wonderful whistle it has now). Didn't try to find the top, roads are wet and yer never know. Jeezus it just seems to keep pulling like an electric motor. Anyway, back to the topic. I can't make it 'fuel-cut', whatever I do. What does that mean? Here I am with my nice shiny new FCD from Pete and the car doesn't want me to fit it.

Ah well, now we come down to it. I can't make it do anything. I took it onto a long straight unclassified a half mile from my home, stuck a driving wheel on the grass verge and floored it; NOTHING! Ran the monitoring program and it showed the wheel spin and RPM climbing, it even showed a 4.0 volt control voltage appearing but only my right foot on the loud pedal made any difference to the RPM. I tried the various cuts from within the monitor and I could make the engine stall using hard-cut, just like it says, but left to it's own devices it didn't do sqat that I could see. Now before I start swapping files with Racelogic, any hints Phil (or anyone?).

Thanks Phil. Don't bother with the pictures, I had considered that option but wanted make sure I hadn't missed the obvious. I too wondered about extending the cables but time was pressing and I ran late anyway, thanks to RL providing connectors too small for the wire gauge feeding the injectors. That cost me 1-2 hours of retroactive fixing. Well it's in now and calibrated. My drive up to Pete's and back didn't give me the opportunity to test it so that will have to wait.

Phil, where have you positioned the TC Ali box? I've offered it up to every space I can find but either the cables don't reach or it ends up being exposed.

The 'Good Book' shows an option fit alarm/immobiliser, might be for that as Phil says.

What d'you go and spoil it for Rich? I wanted to know how long the gearbox/diff will last. Mr Wall, I think fitting, soldering and taping 4 parasitic splices onto that farty little cable feeding the ABS unit inside the dashboard, deserves a passing grade in gynaecology. I now feel amply qualified to decorate my living room through the letterbox. Fitted and soldered the injector intercept connectors on the TC (why in God's name don't they come fitted to the TC?). Just got to actually perform the intercept on the ECU now. OK the wires are no longer than the ones inside the dash but at least they're more accessible (do *not* be telling me about your field harness just now ). I fitted a snap fit multi-way connector in the dash too; three connectors and the TC is disconnected and out. I couldn't understand why they give you an intercept connector for the injectors but you are expected to solder direct to the wheel sensor wires. Doesn't make sense, so I didn't. Should have it done for about 11:00 tomorrow, then it's up to Mr Betts for some SLD scoping and FCD fitting. Just got the de-cat pipes to fit next week end and I can start spending the big bucks again: boost, egt, oil temp gauges and pod. Then it's a new wheel set so's I can fit my blasted UK brake set, then I'm not spending a penny more, except when I get a Super Drager, then absolutely nothing more.

At least one of those near your gearstick is for an auto box. Yes, they really do only have one wiring loom fits-all. Hence, if you have the GZ you'll have two spare sockets in the dashboard for the slave amp too. I've got a spare small one too. Not concerned 'cos it'll be for an option my car doesn't have fitted. The engine bay connector has me stumped as I have no desire to go rooting around in the wiring under the bonnet no way no how. Ash will be your man for that one.

I can't remember if yours is a manual or auto. If you're lucky, it could just be a clutch pressure plate needed, everything else is probably gonna cost, sorry

...particuarly in light of the fact that you didn't make reference to whether it was at the same speed each time. For example, I had something which felt like prop-shaft vibration once I got above 120MPH but having had rear wheel drive cars back in the good-old-days, I had the rear wheels balanced and et voila, gone.

Pop in some time Depends on the time. It's likely to be about 18:00-19:00 and then only if the guys in the USA make it to the UK for the meeting.

Been passed your house twice today, and I'll passing it 4-6 times next week (there and back) so watch it. :biggrin:

Without the padding, can you list what you're doing and the state it will be in when it's done? If I've read it correctly, apart from having replaced things that are nothing to do with the cruise control, you shouldn't need to do anything else for it to work. Working well remains to be seen.

I have the 'mobile' kit for my Palm (what's a Plam Rich? ) and that's a Palm-to-RS232 DTE cable. I guess I need to dig out my NUL MODEM cable, wherever that is, or just go back to plan A, use my old P1 laptop.