jaymdee

Aahh, 0.08 makes more sense. A bit worrying otherwise - 40% error margin!!

Will give running it a go and see how high the boost gets. I have put bid on 3 way bleed valve on Ebay anyway

I'll get it sorted one way or another. The restrictor ring may be the best thing to do, especially as it's the right time of year as the boost will only go down when it's a bit warmer.

J:)

Cheers for reply Paul,

Have not checked all the connections down low, as I don't have facilities, but have checked all the others. As the boost varies with baffle in/out (0.8/1.0), I think it's all ok, just not reaching the higher level of boost I'm looking for.

If you reckon hitting 1.4 on a single occasion may be ok, I'll have a look to see how high the boost goes with the Bleeder T. Really I'd like some way of adjusting the amount of air p**sing out of it though.

Gauge out by 0.8Bar!! Imagine thinking you're hitting 1.2Bar and it's really 2.0Bar!!! TAXI!!!

J:)

Hi; this is bugging me and I can't work out why:

I have recently had an RSR exhaust and full decat fitted, but I am only achieving 1.0Bar boost. With the Baffle in, I am limited to 0.8 Bar. The car is a ’95 J-spec, so I was hoping for a good 1.2Bar with the Baffle out.

I have checked all the pipe work, replaced the BOV with another stock BOV (very kindly provided by Jake - cheers!), but still cannot get 1.2Bar. I have tested the system in TTC (using vacuum hose method) – this gave 1.1Bar dropping to 0.8Bar (baffle in due to noise). When I set it back to Seq mode (3 hours later), there was a satisfying psst of air, so I am assuming that the system is pressurising & holding pressure. (i've also tried 2 boost gauges)

Using the ‘bleeder T’ mod, I can get well over 1Bar (went like a rocket!), but I think it would overboost if I didn’t limit my right foot, so did not floor it. My only thought now is that my car does not follow the standard J-spec decat rules (wastegate bleeding more exhaust than normal?). Options to try are another dump valve; removing the restrictor ring or fitting a bleed valve. Any suggestions???

I believe Chris Wilson does a bleed valve, which I may be intersested in. I did try a manual boost controller, but found it to be unstable, and don't really want more electronics on the dash, so am looking to avoid an EBC.

cheers

J:confused:

Originally posted by RoGuE

Autechre

Boards of Canada

Plaid

LFO

WOW,

Not a young'un, but I know these bands. LFO's 'Advance' is one of the best albums ever. Saw Autechre live supported by Team Doyobi in Bristol - knackered my hearing for weeks.

currently listening to:

Queens of the Stone Age

Fat Boy Slim

Jesus & Mary Chain

Slipknot

Plus Tech Squeeze Box

Violent Femmes

J:)

...Sounds like an honest bloke, may give it a punt!!

At that price I wonder if it will be delivered by flying pigs

J:)

Jake:

Thanks for offer. May take you up on it. Gaz is looking for one for me, but if he can't find one, please keep it handy

Ian:

The side nearest the IC pipe was fully open at 0.4 Bar. (I blew air into it to as if the Throttle valve was shut and the pressure backed up, escaping from BOV). Strangely, the other side (air intake side of turbos) opened at 0.8 Bar. Didn't help fitting it this way around though, as I tried it.

It may be this or maybe something else causing a problem. I was only getting 10psi as stock which I think is lower than normal (11-12psi). So if I'm now supposed to get 1.2 Bar, but only getting 1.0, this problem may be exaggerated at highter boost levels.

J:)

Edit: J-Spec, stock turbos

Hi,

Does anyone know the rating of the stock BOV? I took mine off today and, whilst I couldn't blow through it (read on previous threads), I connected a foot-pump to it and it only took 0.2 Bar before it started passing air and 0.4 Bar for it to gush through.

Surely the BOV needs to withstand more pressure than this? I tested it as I am only getting max of 1.0 Bar boost with full decat & RSR exhaust - was expecting 1.2 Bar. No boost controllers etc fitted.

cheers

J

Have decided to get some stuff done anyway and worry about it next year. Hopefully I'll just get a renewal with no awkward questions

Sakura: Do you mean mods which increase capacity? When I took out the insurance they waid that unless the engine size was being increased, they weren't bothered. "Take photos and keep receipts" was what i was told

J

Reckon you'd get the turbos postage thrown in for free (nothing stated) if bought together?

Bargain!!

J

Not thinking of buying this (at least at the mo)

Gonna get decats, RSR etc fitted soon. That'll do for a while, before any thoughts of big singles, let alone TWIN big singles!!

J:)

I don't a lot about big turbo's, but from what I've read on here am I right that a T78 would be used in a single conversion?

Just seen this on Ebay: (Don't know if link will work)

??Manifold for twin T78 turbos

Is this not a bit mad??

J

Originally posted by RICHARDA

Have you thought of running a daily shitter?.......

 

HTH

Rich

My Supe was supposed to be a cheap daily car for my Lancia Integrale!!!

So far cost approx (since end March):

insurance £700 for year

Interest on Finance: £300

petrol: £35/week = £1000

wheels: £200 (Volk Racing off Ebay - not bad...)

tyres: £200

alignments: £150

lowered suspension: £600

small mods/bits: £400 approx (apexi etc)

service/MOT: £350

& soon getting full decat/RSR exhaust/gauges etc (and I said I wasn't interested in Modding...) probably a good £1500-£2000

without depreciation, I'll have spent about £5500 in 7 months.. Hey Ho etc well worth it!!!

J

Gough,

I've been considering this for some time, and am hoping to get up to Envy for an RSR ExMag II and full decat next month. Have paid deposit on Exhaust so had better be able to get time off work!!

I reckoned on the RSR as it's £100 cheaper than Nur Spec, better clearance (bastard speed bumps at work) and I believe a little quieter. Excluding fitting, should meet your budget, although you probably want Boost gauge and maybe EGT or Air/Fuel Ratio on top to make sure your engine's in good order.

J:)

So nobody tried to renew with L&V yet, then

guess I'll just have to see what the situation is next year

J

Hi,

Have recently seen some threads saying Liverpool & Victoria don't insure imports anymore. Has anyone ALREADY with L&V tried to renew recently with them since this 'no imports' thing?

I've currently got L&V insurance, with renewal due next year. I'm thinking of getting some mods (exhaust, decat, increased boost etc) which is OK with L&V, at no extra cost. If I get all this done, i'm concerned that I've then got to find new insurance for next year (for modded import). I don't want to phone L&V to ask, as they may just send me a good renewal quote next year if I stay schtum.

Advice wanted before getting mods done please.

J

I suggest Liverpol Victoria, but you may need to be over 30 (I know you do for Scoobies)

My current price is £729 fully comp, Jap import TT (UK was only £550)

IIRC, this includes any mods, except larger capacity engine, trackday cover (but not time trials or racing), business use, does not stipulate any alarm/mobiliser and can be parked anywhere overnight.

Anyone else use LV, any bad experiences?

J:)

Thanks for the replies,

I've spoken to the garage who put then on for me, and they said they only tightened them 'hand tight' so I'll have a look tonight.

Snowman, any idea what the wheel specialist is called?

Hi,

Just got hold of a set of Volk alloys. Anyone know if you can get hold of the gold centre nuts (with RAYS centre piece - they could do with replacing) ?

In the meantime... How do I get this off if needed, I looked in Halfords and Homebase and couldn't find a spanner big enough? (I bet the tea-leaves have one though...)

(Will try to take pics tomorrow)

Cheers for some helpful advice. Will look into these places when stuff needs doing.

J:)

OK.thanks.

I'm beginning to think that separate Cat-back and Cat removal pipe may be the way to go, but need to check what's there first.

Its a bl**dy minefield this modding game...

cheers

Yeah, I've seen that on the net, but won't that remove BOTH CATs?

Agree that I don't know (yet).

Been looking on the forum today and brain a bit mushed with all the info. I need to look at what's fitted first, but just trying to get a feel for options to start modding car (which I think is standard at the moment).

CAT 2 removal seems a good start, but I might as well get the exhaust done at the same time, so just thinking what the easiest option may be. (new to car-tinkering)

Anyone recommend anywhere in the Bath area for getting work done on the Supe? There seems to be several places dotted around the country, but nowhere local to me.

I'm looking for places for that can do stuff like cat removal, wheel alignment, fuel set up etc and know what they're doing, rather than have a happy 'we'll give it a go' approach

Been trying to decipher this one, but given up and gonna ask.

Are there any replacement exhaust systems which remove the second CAT as well as replacing the back box. Most seem to be CAT-back and require a CAT replacement pipe as well as the new exhaust. (although this may be better for MOT time)

The Blitz web site says that the Spec R "runs from the base of the downpipe back, removing the catalyst on some cars"

Is this system v. loud? If so, can anyone recommend a system which doesn't sound like a fleet of B52's coming down the road?

cheers:conf: